Mopar Perf Racing Voltage Regulator

Hi all,

Is there a particular reason why this regulator is listed as drag race only? Is it a potential hazard, in some form, if used on a street-driven car?

The 69 and down one, I don't like but the 1970 and up one I can't see there being a difference.

Are you referring to the charging system, overall? Because I have a modern alternator (Toyo Land Cruiser), as well as other upgrades - wiring and stuff like that.

Are you talking about the gold one with the heat sink?

The constant output voltage regulator that puts out 13.5 volts all the time.

Voltage Regulator

I don't know what the issue is supposed to be when using that particular regulator. It's the same one that was on my old 440 6-BBL Road Runner street car.

The '70-up style VR was something Mopar recommended for their electronic (orange box) ignition conversions.

Ran one on my Hemi car for decades, no problem.
I've also just used the OEM '68-''69 VRs with Mopar electronic ignitions, and everything's working fine on those cars.

Not designed for street use, drag race only was the original reason.
Probably based on higher amperage output for short times in the pits driving back after a run
I buy and use a higher amp (100+ amps) output alternator now on my bracket cars

Mopar made both types in a race version, I'm not a big fan of the old mechanical style with one field wire. the newer version with 2 wires green and blue, would be fine electrically there can be no difference in its operation, so just a gimmic. Measure the voltage when running 14 something .....good.

he isn't talking the ignition control unit here.

Except the VR controls VOLTAGE not amperage. 13.5 volts is lower than the 14.2 I regularly see on my voltmeter with a factory VR.

That's a great point. Maybe the "not for street use" it is assuming that the 13.5 is not enough to keep lights and other accessories running at full potential on the street vs. the 13.5 being just to keep the ignition and a fuel pump powered.

My guess is being set at 13.5V it doesn't have a ntc thermistor so no accomadation for hot or cold ambient/battery temperature like OEM-street regulators. 13.5V is on the lower end of the charging range with the norm being 13.2V-14.8V. A shorter battery life may also be the result. I would also suspect the non-variable charging point may be counter to optimum emissions requirements via torque load hence "Drag Race Only". But this is all speculation. RUN IT.

typically you'll see 14.2+ with the race one also, I'm telling you I think it was just a gimmick.

I have this voltage regulator on my Challenger. I have a high amperage alternator, fuel injection, and in-tank electric pump. I do a lot of street driving and the charging doesn't appear to be any different than anything else. I see about 14 volts off idle. I have link below to a video I just made showing the charging voltage after cold startup.
AG.


https://youtu.be/FORcUFekZbk?si=1G0jKpp9JMEEF30p

It's Just a complaint-stopper statement.

Once in a great while, a customer would boil the battery. Usually they were in a warm climate area and driving the car every day, for long periods of time/street use.

It's really not fun to be blamed for wrecking someone's paint and to be screamed at "who is going to pay for this".

I never heard of anyone in metro Detroit with this issue.