2nd gen hemi valve guide / seal question UPDATE adjustments

I have mine opened up for some Maintenace
Clean and paint touchups, Intake reseal and valve adjustments
And want to replace the seals while I have it open.

I have a feeling these are not OEM style
The boss where the seal is . measures .528- .530 OD
Valves are 5/16ths OD

SO, Im looking for a quality seal

A project that snowballed pretty quick

I run US Seal viton valve seals on my Hemi and all my engines for that matter. Never any issues. My Sixpack 440 has over 65,000 miles on it so far.

I used SilverSeal's blue silicone seals on my Hemi, which until then had a bit of an appetite even after a complete rebuild.
Worked a charm, still in there.

Never had an intake leak.
FWIW, it had headers - being a "Day 2 car" before I got it; literally, according to 1st owner's logbook - and no heat tubes to the intake.

Anyone have sources.

I cant find anything where they shows specs / dimensions of the seal.

Part of me thinks the guides on mine have been milled to accept the seals that are on it


EDIT, these look like they might work

https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/500-12/10002/-1

If I can recommend something stay away from Teflon seals. Get a good set of Viton seals

I use this style a lot https://www.ebay.com/itm/123106703236 they will expand enough to fit your slightly oversize .500 guide.

Comp Cams 516-16

Seals ordered
And am going to put a set of the milodon tube seals in it while I'm here

EDIT ;


Well chit.

The Milodon tube seals are out of stock everywhere until May.

So, I'll just put valve seals in it, adjust valves and deal with oil in the spark plug tubes as I see fit. / another time

It looks like there was an inner spring riding on the locating step?

That’s often not a desirable situation.

I wouldn't bother w/ valve seals on the exhaust side.

Im not.

I know guys in the past who dont even put seals on the exhaust guide

It has inner springs. I will take a closer look at that once parts get here

House projects today

Can I ask why ?

the way it was told to me is the exhaust is a push side . aka no vacuum to pull oil into the port like the intake side does


Being brutally honest with myself.
Deep down there is a part of me that thinks new seals will do nothing for my oil consumption issues.
But , Its cheap and I have it down far enough I have to give it a try.

Had me concerned.
So took the inner springe and ckd. its good. Outer spring is well outside the inner step. Looks like the damper might be rubbing the stepped edge. And I think thats ok

The inner "should" be at the same installed height. Not up on that step.That should get machined away , but If it ain't broke...I would be curios how close to coil bind it is though.

As for the damper the only thing I don't like there is the cast iron going through the engine as it machines itself, but again if it ain't broke....


That head isn't really set for those springs.

Thanks, When it comes apart at a later date to freshen it up.
I'll have them taken care of , or maybe new heads ????


I'll take a look / ck for coil bind before I put it back together next week.

But the engine runs good and has been together for over 20 years with no issues ,,,so far (knocks on wood )

No vacuum pulling oil in.
The exhaust valve is laid over so far on a hemi, the oil doesn't pool up around the guide.
Even if it did pull a little oil in, the guides on a hemi could probably use all the lube they can get, lol.

I've seen so many hi-perf engines over the years that didn't have seals on the exhaust side and had no issues w/ oil getting past them. I decided to try it myself and have seen no problems.

thanks Chip ... and Bill ... makes sense .

Update, Seals are here and will go in today.

To verify,
I bring each cylinder up to TDC and adjust that cyls valves correct ?

Or just look in the valley area and put each lifter on the cam base circle and adjust as needed ?

This

It was straight on my computer. I don't know what to do.

I use the method using the starter with the plugs in the motor that works by bumping the motor over using the starter motor until the exhaust valve just starts to open and then set the intake valve clearance, next bump it over until the intake valve opens all the way and is real close to being close or close a tiny bit of crank travel and set the exhaust valve clearance

I got it straight

Valves all adjusted. New intake valve seals. And put the spark plug tube seals in while it was apart.
So hopefully no more oil getting in the tubes

Just waiting on intake gaskets now


The Milodon tube seals are on backorder. So took a chance with these Ebay versions. Worked perfect.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/196284907202