Narrow Rod Bearings not 'narrow' enough

Help.

My older 440 source 4.150 stroke crankshaft was turned 0.010 under before I bought the car. Putting the engine back together after the previous 'mechanic' assembly process resulted in a spun cam bearing and other misery... The speed pro 'narrow' bearings result in zero side clearance when installed on 440 source rods.

Anyone know the actual width of other 'narrow' bearings?

Thanks, Craig

Try 440source

unfortunately for me the old stroker crank I have uses Chrysler rod journals.

I corrected myself.
Says the clevite have enlarged champhers

I sent 440 source a message asking if they offered them in 10 under... no response yet

I might have some used ones laying around, I will check and measure the width tomorrow morning

That would be great. I don't want to go the belt sander route if a shelf solution is available.

Depending on the amount of interference bearing is hitting the radius, the fix could be 30 seconds with a utility knife.

H series Clevite or use a lathe with an arbor in the chuck. I use a bearing knife for scoring drywall : D

The narrowed rod bearings have an upper and lower half. If not installed correctly they will contact the radius on the crank. They usually are marked U and L for upper and lower.

Sorry couldn’t find any Mopar size clevite
I have a 4.15 Mopar 2.375 crank with BME rods with those bearings

I use Clevite V bearings...Here's the width


changes pics to a BN set getting ready to go in now...notice Tang location. These also Have Dowel holes but can be used with or without.

All 16 Speed Pro shells are stamped with the same p/n, and I can not find any visible difference in the tang locations.

All the speed pro's that are in the .840's width are dowel hole also.

I think the standard bearing is .930 something so those are tweeners at .900

My speed pro catalog makes no mention of the 7135 bearings being narrowed. It does show them as “chamfered”, but the set I have here is not.

I always considered those to be performance bearings for stock cranks.

For cranks with large radius fillets I’ve always used the clevites.

If those aren’t available, then as has been mentioned……what you have can be modded to work.

The Clevite catalog shows the std width bearings as being .912” wide, and the narrow ones .862”.

Thank you... well that sucks... Summit has it wrong... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-8-7135ch10/make/chrysler#overview

Two things on that crankshaft, you could have it offset ground down to 2.2 rod journal diameter (BB Chevy size) and increase the stroke to 3,.91 or 3.90 depending on how good your crank shop is and how good your crankshaft is on the indexing of the rod throws, which gives you a lot better selection on rods, rod bearings and use the smaller diameter HD racing wrist pins as well as lightening the pistons and rods up a little. That works fine when you have to bore the block, not so much when you can do bearings and rings to freshen it only, not a new build
As far as Clevite rod bearing on the Tri Metal type bearing try using CB529H, CB 527 HN, CB527 HND part numbers
I have had to switch in the past to King or Federal Mogul companies like speed Pro or Seal Power due to the warehouses not having the Clevite brand bearings in stock

As Cab said, you need Clevites with "N" (for narrow) in the suffix. The reason I bought my bearing knife 48 years ago is because there would be times like this. Sure it's a hassle, but it's faster than looking for a hard-to-find bearing.

To be exact...at least by their specs.
Speed pro 7300 .884
speed pro 7135 .909
speed pro 2320 .932

King HP are supposed ot be .863, I assume that will solve the issue. Thank you, Craig.