1350 u-joint ?

i need a new driveshaft made for my charger because the joint "ear hole" on the front of the shaft [the shaft has the damper ring on the front if that matters] has become slightly egg shaped, allowing play in the shaft between the joint cup and the front ear hole of the shaft.
with that said, what i would like to do is get a shaft made with a forged yoke for the 727, and use 1350 joints on both ends of the shaft.
with that said, however, is there a 1350/7290 [or 7260] conversion joint made ?
the reason for asking is, i am keeping the 8 3/4 rear the car came with, and i have several sets of 3.91 gears, all in 742 or 741 cases, having the 7260 joint size on them.
i have a good 7290 pinion yoke i can swap [just remove the 7260 joint, replace seal, install 7290 yolk, torque down with a new nut and done ?] so i figured i would do that, but have a nice 1350 joint shaft, if and whenever i decided to purchase a 1350 pinion yolk.
please show me where i am screwing up, but remember, the 8 3/4 will be staying. TIA !

Call NAPA or Mark Williams and ask them, if their available they can sell it to you
I have used several different adapter U joints, 7260 to 7290 and maybe 7290 to 1350 but that was a long time ago and my memory ain't that good

Dr. Diff lists them. https://www.doctordiff.com/1350-to-7290-conversion-u-joint.html

He also lists 1350 yoke for the 8-3/4 rear axles. https://www.doctordiff.com/1350-u-bolt-pinion-yoke-package.html

I had a 7290 to 1350 conversion joint under my road runner for a while. Got it from Dr. Diff.

If you need a driveshaft made, Dr. Diff or Summit can get you a Strange unit in short order. Summit is a bit cheaper.

i was thinking of having the good doctor make up a shaft for me.
however, i was really wanting solid [non-greasable] joints. i know a 1350 joint is available that way, but i wonder if a conversion joint is ?
as to the pinion yolk[s], mine are the 10 spline variety.
i know the google may be able to help me, but i was wondering about other's experience doing what i want to do [if any].

On the drive shaft PLEASE get one made by Mark Williams, its a long story & A LOT of wasted money on my Charger, MW for the win !!!!!

hmmmm.............
i know it's none of my business, but would it be possible to pm me with the story ?
as you know what i have to deal with, my funds are only few and far between to attempt to get my junk back on the road, so i have to be judicious with my spending in order to be able to afford other costs in my life that are way more important.

I've heard that ALOT regarding M/W as the right place to go first. Not to side track, but is Denny's still competitive in this market as far as quality/price? I have to get one cut soon for a Brand X high 8 sec NA car.

as you know I have an a518 [46rh] OD trans, lots of potential drive line angle issues, so I had a Alum shaft made here in houston by a well known company, $750, FOUGHT & FOUGHT a drive line vibration, ie EVERYTHING possible LOL, pinion angle,trans angle ect, I gave up, blew up my 8 3/4 & had to get them to shorten the drive shaft $150, now the vibration was WORSE, took it back to them three times for a rebalance ,,, NO change, in desperation I ordered a Strange steel custom shaft $450 & it changed the vibration considerably but at high speeds it came back, I called Strange & asked them what RPM they spin the shaft for balancing, they said, 500 rpm was the fastest they spin them, so I did the old chalk marker test on the shaft on jack stands at 60 mph, the chalk marks were at the same spot as the welded on weights, so I cut them off & ended up adding weight almost opposite of where they had them, the vibration was ALMOST gone but at 120mph it was still pretty bad, so, I called Mark Williams & asked them what RPM they can spin the shaft, They said as fast as you want, so I had them build me a new shaft $650 with their better yoke, the car is SMOOTH as GLASS !!!!!! another one of my expensive lessons learned the hard way & yes I have the large u joint 1350

Makes me happy that my local truck service shop built steel driveshaft has held up for so long running 8s at 3800 lbs.

All the local parts stores around me stock the conversion u-joint. It shouldnt be hard to find.

As far as a shaft, my last two aluminum shafts have come from Action Machine in South Bend, IN and are awesome. Usually have them at my door in 10 days.

i kind of thought that was the story. i have always believed in high speed balancing, and truck driveshaft places do not do that because the truck driveline does not see the shaft speed a car does because of the huge difference in tire size.

Look up what Spicer has to offer in solid conversion u-joints. I have some 7260/1310 solid conversion joints in some applications and have used their "regular" solid joints over the years as well. Never a problem and are the best in the business IMHO.