Low deck BB

is anyone making a BBM low deck block. ?

indy

Indy.......been asking this ? for years. With no luck.

I know that you could get a low deck Bulldog block. No idea if Jason Line is intending on doing them though, now that he's taken it over the Bulldog blocks.

Bulldog....

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2630332/1.html

[quote=carter]Bulldog....

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2630332/1.html [/quo
4/26/22 03:17 AM





Was the last time anyone committed on that thread, So i would say it isn't looking good?

I have a low-deck Bulldog that Barton machined and it checks good according to him.

Just curious: all reports of AM blocks say 100 lbs. (+/-) heavier than stock.
How do you know where that metal is, viz. is it useful for strength, or just a way of reducing machining costs?

I looked on his website and he does not sell them, where did you get yours ?

I have an Indy low deck in my 64....

They have been made from time to time by various folks but have never been super popular. I'm not aware of any low deck blocks that are currently available. I did just receive a flyer from Bill Mitchel the other day saying they had Mopar blocks in stock.

FWIW this is my third low deck aftermarket deal. The other two were both KB's, one a 525 the other a 572. Pretty sure Indy is still doing them

Thanks guys, KB said no, so far Indy is it, almost 10k with all the options I need. VERY disheartening.

For BB’s, the block seems to be the only real place where we have to pay the Mopar tax. There isn’t a $3500 solution for the 800-1000 hp guys like the basic GM block offerings, that cost half the price of a Callies or Bill Mitchell block. It’s either use a stock block, keep the tune safe and risk it, or spend $7k or better for a serious race block.

An aluminum BBC is just as expensive as an aluminum Mopar block if not more. A dart block lists for $9700 and the Brodix block starts at $6300 but most would opt for the $8000 Brodix block as a starting point. Now comparing a Mopar steel block to a BBC there is about a $3k difference you can get a Dart Big M for about $3500 but no options and most order additional options when buying one. Last one I got in was $5700 with a few changes, .904" lifters and 55MM cam.

Agreed- was speaking specifically for cast iron. The difference is for the parts that fall somewhere between stock and the nice high end aluminum blocks. The Dart Big M or the Bow Tie blocks are totally ok for the not all out effort 900-ish hp crowd, which is where the only option is the $6500 Callies block for a Mopar, and isn't available in a low deck at all.

I also knew a guy that was making 950-ish on spray for at least 5 years grudge racing with a stock gen VI 454 block, but that isn't any smarter than making similar power with a 440 block!

I would not be afraid of a serious build in the right 400 block.

And which block would you be comfortable with a 230 block?

The problem now is finding a "good" block to start with. Unless you have it sonic checked you have no idea.

I had 4, and 3 ended up in the junk pile because they were cracked, or too thin to even bore .030 over.

Low deck aftermarket availability was zero when I built my engine however.

That would be a start, I got a 230 block once that was stuck from water in one bank. I was able to get it unstuck and turn over but after sonic checking it was going to need 5 sleeves between core shift and rust pitting to use it at .030 over.

I've experienced the same thing on the 400 blocks, sonic test all cylinders before going forward before starting any build
The first 400 block I built for a customer said he had the block sonic tested and was told it was good, it split the #1 cylinder on the cam side. on the 3rd or 4th pull on a DTS engine dyno, we tried sleeving it on that bank after sonic testing it and found it was unusable based on the massive core shift, that bank cylinder wall thickness was right at .035 thick. The sleeves wouldn't seal on the bottom

one that was .140 min or 3/4 fill.

Gotcha