727 Forward Manual Valve Body - any better than the others?

I have used Cheetah reverse pattern in two cars in the past. Any recommendations on forward shifting?

Thanks!

Why switch now?

I have a Turbo Action manual forward pattern In my E-body with stock shifter for many years now, has work flawless.

Same. It has been fine, however i'm going to change to get LBA. Plan to use the A&A unit detailed in this article........https://itsworn.tumblr.com/post/170946397721/build-the-ultimate-toughest-torqueflite

Well, it’s been more years than I can remember so if there’s something better I’m open for suggestions

Thanks! I’ll

That’s a good read!

I would call Pro Trans, Dave Smith (661-940-7400) and ask them about which ones they advise for your deal They are the very best Tork Flyte tranny builders in the World, bar none
They make a lot of custom made all out racing tranny parts for a lot of the other very good racing tranny companies like A1, ATI, FTI and many other like them
My concerns on switching valve body shifting patterns is based on me back when I would drive other people's race cars for them to test them, now and then I would forget which way to move their levers after shifting out of 1st gear (rote memory ), NOT GOOD
Good luck and be safe

When I first starting racing I had a stock valve body that had a shift kit or something done to it from many years ago that my dad did. We built a new trans and installed a reverse Cheetah valve body. Used it for I think 2 years and just didn't particularly care for the reverse pattern. At the time I had a Hurst ratchet shifter. We replaced the reverse Cheetah with a Forward Cheetah and have been using that for the last 15 or so years without any issues. I have since changed to the Turbo Action shifter as well. I just personally prefer the forward pattern. Didn't notice any ET gains when going from reverse to forward pattern either. Car ran low to mid 11's when the change was made.

I've run T/A 's with both FWD and RVB's they've worked flawlessly you just gotta remember to start your burnouts in second gear. I also have a Griner FVB that has worked flawlessly for years in my 904 with 5300 stall.

The advantage of RVB's for me is you pull back toward you down the track (more natural movement) and you can't accidently slam it into neutral on a hard 2-3 shift like you can with a FVB.

The downside is you gotta go back through first to get back to neutral...which sucks especially if you wanna unload the motor and coast past the traps

If you have a low band apply valve body, regardless of the pattern DO NOT shift it into neutral or low above 2 to 5 MPH MAX, those valve bodies apply the low band immediately any time they are shifted into or through low gear, NOT GOOD

i wasn't aware neutral applied low band ?

The low band apply valve bodies will engage low gear every time you move the shifter through low gear I learned that the hard way years ago

so this would be going from 1st to neutral in a reverse pattern valve body, low band would still be applied in neutral ?

No, you're already in low gear so sliding the shifter forward into neutral takes it out of 1st gear.
If you're in 2nd or 3rd gear and want to shift into neutral you have to have move the shifter through 1st gear to get it into neutral so make sure your either stop or going slower than 5MPH or you may end up with your teeth marks in the steering wheel from the sudden deacceleration
If you have the froward shifting valve body shifting it into neutral from 2nd or 3rd gear isn't a concern

Yes. With a low band apply reverse manual valve body, the low band is applied in reverse, neutral, and 1st gear. Going from 1st to neutral the forward clutch is released, but the low band is still applied.

so now, i'm more inclined to use a forward pattern, manual valve body for my charger, as [when i get it going that is] it will be a street/strip [airport drags] car.
i have on the shelf, a B&M forward pattern, manual shift kit, that is low band apply.
i also have a detent plate from [???] that fits my factory shifter i intend to use. i have read somewhere that the detent plates out there need to be "tuned up" somewhat, due to the fact the factory shifters move in an arc, while the detent plates move in a straight line.
i have been looking at that the last few days, [as i have time] and can see the difference. with my machinist skills, that can be easily be taken care of.
i also acquired a rusty chrome shifter i am going to modify by shortening the shaft by 2" [already done] and doing all the modifications to this shifter instead of my original, which is in perfect condition.
my one buddy is going to make me a genuine walnut knob to match my wood grain grant steering wheel when he gets back from vacation in april.
any thing i need to be aware of using the B&M kit ?