383... who's stroker kits would you use?

isee mancini uses eagle, there is molnar cranks and rods.. though i,m not sure they do a kit.., 440 source?..

just a street car like 450 cid or so out of my orig 383 block without a ton of grinding...like to hear any recommendations thanks guys,.,.

Lots of opinions on this, I used a 440 source for my 400 block set up 512ci, everything checked good out of the box, still pin fitted the piston pins to the pistons AND rods, crank was very good, been running it for lots of smiles.

thanks all info appr

What amount of power and what size C.I. do you really want?

Unfortunately availability is a bigger problem now than quality. Check around for what is a actually in stock and your choices will probably be narrower.

I've been playing with different B block strokers for over 30 years. All things being considered, I'm a firm believer in Molnar crank & rods & then choose your piston of choice. Lots of companies make off the shelf pistons to make common combos, choose the brand you like best.

We are planning to build a 496 with .060 over 383. The only kits I have found are Hughes and 440 source for my cid. I spoke with Glen @ Hughes earlier this summer about their kit and he mentioned that they were mix and matching crank and rod manufactures to complete the "kits". Molnar crank/Eagle rods etc if the customer didn't mind. Maybe by now they are getting some of that stuff back on the shelf. 440 source has a 438 kit, a little smaller than your goal but both their 438 and 489/496 they claim minimal grinding if any. Pretty sure the source kit uses Icon pistons like Hughes. I have a 500 inch 440 source kit in a RB with roughly 12,xxx miles and zero issues. I will probably use Todd Marsh when we are ready he can get Molnar and Diamond pistons to put something together for you. Of course if and when available.

APPR THE INFO GUYS.. MORE THE MERRIER

440 source is just fine for your application.

I've built several B and RB motors by using a stock forged steel 440 crank and have them offset ground down to BB Chevy rod size which can increase the strohe from 3.90 up to, depending on how good the crank is to start with on the rod journals indexing, to 3.910 not enough to worry over. To use them in a B block you need to have the main journals turn down also to the stock diameter
I've had one done now for my next 383 build for my 1969 Dart GTS 383 4 speed car, I bought a set of the SpeedMaster( Chineze imports) BB Chevy type rod that iare7.100 center to center and I'm now waiting on having the block rough bore before ordering pistons and rings. This combination will make between 448 up to 451 C.I., depending on the bore size used
I started using Ohio Crankshaft CO 4.25 stroke cranks a long time ago (circa 1995) with the BB Chevy rod journals sizes with the BB Chevy style long rods and had really good luck with those motors out running and lasting longer than those using the 4.150 stroke with the stock Mopar rod journals and heavier rods and pistons
I would not build a high HP 383 motor due to them having the thinner, weaker, main webbing in them like the stock OEM 440 motors have
All the stock 400 blocks are a lot better choice to use for a decent stroker build

THANKS CAB, ITS FOR MY 68 383 FORMULA S..SO I WANT TO KEEP THE ORIGINAL MOTOR IN THE CAR,, WILL BE USING ORIG EXH MANIFOLDS ALSO.. IT NEEDS A REBUILD

JUST FIGIRED I WOULD BUY A STROKER KIT AND MAKE IT A LITTLE FASTER AND HAVE ALL NEW PARTS.. JUST A STREET CAR 280-510 HYDRAULIC 3;23 REAR 340 CONVERTER


DON'T CARE WHERE THE HP ENDS UP.. SINCE I,M USING MANIFOLDS WOULD YOU REC MAYBE A 432 OVER A 472 OR 496?.. THANKS DAN

If using ex manifolds, I recommend getting a custom cam, you will need one with 112 to 114 ish LSA for it to work better with manifolds

Without sifting through past posts, has anyone compared power between a low deck motor versus a high deck with about the same displacement.

the one i have is at 110.. 280 -510 mild one

There is around 20 lbs. weight difference between a 400 and a 440 block of the same year
I can't remember making two stroker motors identical except for the blocks, B or RB stroker motors, pump gas or race gas

Honestly if its the original block and you have no hp requirement just rebuild the engine. You didn't mention cylinder head or any other upgrade along with the cubic inches. Stock stroke 383's run really well.

ITS BASICALLY THE SAME MONEY STROKED OR STOCK IS WHY.. PLUS MUCH BETTER PARTS TECHNOLOGY NOW... HAVE STOCK STEALTH HEADS , M/P STOCK STYLE ALUM INTAKE

AND ALUM W PUMP AND HOUSING TO DROP 100LBS OR SO OFF THE FRONTEND

If you want to do something a little different, the stock crank with a 7.10 rod and the Icon IC-513 piston gives you a workable combination. Otherwise I would shop for crank and rods first, Icon has reasonably priced pistons for the 3.75, 4.15 and 4.25 combos with the 383 now. S/F.....Ken M

SEEMS MOLNAR IS WHAT I AM HEARING A LOT FOR CRANK AND RODS.. WHAT DO YOU PREFER? THANKS FOR THE INPUT

We have had a Molnar crank and rods since 2015. Beat the crap out of them! Great pieces!

I just sold a set of K1 rods to a member here. They're good. I like Molnar, Callies, Manley, Carillo: all good stuff. Right now, look at what you can actually get. S/F....Ken M

THANKS MY FRIEND..APPR THE ADVICE..GONNA CALL AROUND TODAY AND TALK TO SOME PEOPLE

TALKED TO ED AT MOLNAR TODAY....SAYS HE JUST GOT A SHIPMENT OF 383-400 3.9 CRANKS [2.2 ROD JOURNALS], 6.535 RODS ARE IN PORT AND EXPECTED IN THE NEXT FEW WEEKS

SO AFTER THE HOLIDAYS I AM ORDERING MY KIT...THANKS GUYS

I bought a set of Speedmaster 7.100 long BB Chevy rods for my 3.91 stroker 383 build for my 1968 Dart GTS 4 speed car, I'll probably buy a set of Auto Tech pistons for the 383 motor after having the block rough bored to see what bore size it will clean up at

Maybe you should call them now in-case I call tomorrow and order all they have

should work out great, I would definitely look at the 2.200 BBC rod journal for a lighter bobweight and less grinding.

My only other comment is:

If your original block will clean up at .030 or .040 over, I wouldn't go .060

STD BORE STILL YES.. 3.9 STROKE W 2.2 BBC RODS YES.. 5000 RPM MAX ENGINE..HAS 3;23 GEARS AUTO W 340 CONVERTER.. SHOULD BE PEPPY AND LIVE A LONG TIME

LOL..HE HAD 25 CRANKS ANYWAY..AND RODS ARE IN PORT AND EXPECTED AT THE SHOP ANYTIME..

How many miles on this ? I would at least bore it .010.

Make sure the crank you buy has knurled rear main seal area.

For a nice street car, stinks to have a dripping rear seal.

I know there's debate on that. But friend bought a 528 kit from Ray Barton... had a knurled seal area... maybe Barton knows a thing or two.

no idea.. was out of car for like 25 yrs while it had a 440 in it.. prob go .030 unless i can get pistons readily with less overbore..but i doubt i will be able to..time will tell