Starter thermal wrap?

3G with TTI block hugger shorties, not much clearance from starter.
Still working out kinks of the install, but I may have starter heat soak issue.
Car turns over fast and starts immediately when cold.
Seems to struggle when hot.

Any suggestions on a good material to protect the starter.
Rather not wrap the header, would be near impossible with the motor in the car.

Thx

I used Zircoflex.

is Zircoflex self adhesive ?

Man, that's a tight fit - my Hookers had more room (in a B-body).
For a while I used the DEI (?) wrap, had velcro to close it - later went to a RobbMc starter and left the wrap off without issues.

Yes it is.

thank you sir !

Well I bought a starter thermal wrap and it didn't work.
Car still won't start after driving 30min and trying to immediately do a restart.
It acts like the battery is dead, won't even turn over.
Wait 20-30 min and it spins fast and starts right up.

Now I'm wondering if the battery doesn't have enough CCAs?
Does the motor/starter require more current when hot?

This battery is 3yr old with 585 CCA
2016 3G cars specs call for a 800CCA battery.

2 things:
- Thought the first C in CCA is for cold, and when most current is needed?
- I'm thinking the higher number for the later cars is for all the "other" electronics?

Check voltage at starter lug when cranking and then the battery.

(Make sure you don't have a big drop across a cable or cable end)

Bad or insufficient grounds cause many problems.

my first thought as well.
as has already been said, check for voltage drop on all wires to the starter. this includes the small wires used for the switch, button, etc.
if you have "bolt on/temporary" battery cable ends, get rid of them ! [not saying you do, but i have seen more electrical problems stemming from those things it's funny i have any hair left on my head]
if the wiring is more than a few years old, look over the terminals at the connections for any "green death" that may be wicking into the strands from a nick or cut in the insulation.
please let us know what you find.

All wiring is brand new, the battery terminals are the type where the cable is secured by wing nut to stud.
Battery is in trunk, I made sure to grind away paint and get a good connection to chassis for ground.
I'm sure there's a voltage drop on the positive side, with the 16ft run.
But why only when hot?

Starter must require a lot more current when hot.
I'll try and take a measurement when it happens.

Spins over super easy and starts instantly when cool.

I guess I need to rethink my cabling, this starter can draw 400A!?

Still curious why it's only an issue when hot

Have a 1970 Monte Carlo that does the same thing. It had a toggle switch on the dash when I bought it. The guy said it was for the starter as it gets hot sometimes and won't start. I've had other Chevy's that did that and I just jumped it with a screwdriver at the starter. I now have a momentary switch to avoid leaving it on by accident. Haven't followed the wires to see exactly where they run to, but it's from the fuse box to the switch and out to the starter area. I had new battery cables, battery, and ignition switch installed. That helped some, but guessing the issue is with the solenoid. When this starter takes a dump, I'm going mini starter and see how that works.

What starter are you running?

DB Electrical 410-48238 New Starter Compatible with/Replacement for Dodge 5.7L
5.7 Ram Pickup Truck 05 06 07 08 2005 2006 2007 2008 Manual Transmission 56029274AA 17932 M0T21271ZC M0T21271 2-2725-MI


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XUIP6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What size cables? Big ground from engine to chassis as well?

Posting photos of everything may help.

this was going to be my next set of questions, but i got treed.

The late 70's and 80's had factory shields for the starters. It Could be a framework for a shield with some mods. You need an air gap to act a a thermal cushion. Have you considered wrapping the header pipes that are next to the starter of use that metal wrapped around the header? A small amount of wrap around a small section of the header will not void the ceramic coating.

Make sure you have enough grounds, especially with it acting up when hot or warm
Battery grounds are like money, sex, HP, traction and so on, a man can never have too much of them

Updating this to maybe help someone else.
My trans took a crap, so I was dealing with that.
Now that the trans issue appears fixed, I was able to verify the hot start issue is fixed.

I replaced the CCA (copper clad aluminium) wires with 00awg copper and that fixed the issue.
I now measure a 2V improvement in voltage drop when cranking the motor (9.5V vs 7.5V).

Not sure why it was only an issue when hot, but the pure copper wire works.
I guess there's a reason the CCA wire is 1/2 the price........

Glad you've got it fixed.
Just for info, if your starter motor has permanent magnets fitted (many do), they lose magnetism when hot and won't make as much torque with the same current flowing. Can't be helped it's just physics.

Go to Davis Technologies and their wiring diagram and wiring principles and check that out, it will give some good information. Doug

Never been a fan the Wrap technology for headers/components. As good a wraps are at keeping heat out they are just as proficient as keeping it in as well as moisture. I prefer a shield that will deflect, mitigate direct exposure to radiant heat source.