Bell housing bolts

Since I'm getting tired and need a break, does anyone actually torque the bell to clock bolts or just make them german tight?

I made it a habit after cracking a bell years ago becaise the bolts were not Austrian tight. It makes sense with the safety can given the intended use. I loctite eveything, especially with a motor plate.

"7. Position your Lakewood Bellhousing over the flywheel/
clutch assembly and slide onto dowel pins in engine
block. Fasten the bellhousing to the engine block using
the 3/8”-16 x 1” (35 ft lbs of torque) and 1/2” bolts (100-
110 ft lbs) grade 8 bolts supplied. Secure the blockplate
to the bellhousing using the supplied grade 8 fasteners
installed in the order shown on the illustration."

I go 45 ft-lbs on the 3/8 and 85 on the two that go in from the front. Might have used# those from the manual but I can't remember

Just tight here, no torque wrench. I don't use loctite on them either. To each their own...do what works for you.

My bellhousing has to go on after installing the engine. I couldn't get a torque wrench on most of the bolts if I tried. Trans to bell is even worse on the new combo.

Jeff

Years ago I bought the ARP bellhousing stud kit and I just torque the 3/8 studs to 50# and the 7/16 bolts to 80# even when I'm just setting it up

Gus

I have never torque them, hand tight with a medium length wrench
It can't hurt to torque them so do that if you can