Cooling on the street....

Anyone else have trouble cooling theirs on the street? I finally decided to bite the bullet and gave Wizard cooling a call. I had a quote a while back to have them make radiator and fan shroud, and never really come back in time to have them make it, nor did I have the cash...

Fast forward two years...Never really got the car out this year due to a snafu with my collector car company and I and I was marginally able to keep it cool...That was until the stronger fans I bought, melted all my wiring down.....

So this year I found a good deal on a radiator with 1.25" thick 2-row instead of the 1" thick 2-row I have now...Ordered it....Now my new fans won't fit the thicker core...call up wIzard cooling again, and this time for a fan shroud with two 14" brushed puller fans and built in catch can...Not cheap, but I was marginal last year, so I figured I wouldn't need the brushless fans.....Just a bigger brushed set...Should look nice..Not cheap..

I have done everything else I can think of.

A mopar viscous fan kit ended my cooling issues. I tried different pumps, radiators and electric fans. The belt driven fan was the last option before pulling the engine. This set up has now been on three engine combinations and still works great.

Can you describe the cooling issue(s) that you are having? Too hot all the time, just when driving or just sitting at idle (such as sitting in traffic)? To answer your initial question, yes, I fought this for a while with the stoked hemi in my a-body. I finally resolved all cooling issues and it cools great, even with the AC on in the Florida heat.

Big hemi specific deal here.

I've found elec water pumps will flow enough at idle and low speeds to cool well if the rest of the system is ok. Get on the fwy and at higher speeds the flow rate v heat being produced ratio changes....then temps change.Get off the fwy at lower rpm, temps drop 25 degrees in 45 secs.

You get to the point where sustained heat created by higher rpm overwhelms the pumps ability to flow at higher speeds, even if the all available air at speed gets through the core. Mech pumps would be different. Ambient temps play a role here too.

Having said that, I dont get over 205 max in the heat in sustained hwy runs. On the street/traffic light stop n go....185deg.

Just what I've come across with a big hemi in an A body.

Once the Mega block gets up in temp in the big ole Hemi, I cannot get it back down...That is where I started. Then I put in a 55gal/hr water pump, it got a little better...Then I disconnected the built in tans cooler and it dropped about 10*, but still hot at 215* on a 90* day in traffic.

I took the thermostat out and left it out...Got a little better yet. Switched to better dual BeCool12" fans over the Flex-a-Lite and that helped a little..

What is weird is late last year, I killed the Firecore distributor and replaced it with an MSD....Totally different curves, and that helped the most. I am down to keeping it right around 205 on a hot day. Still not the 185* I want, but close.

So I ordered a new shroud and over sized 14" fans from Wizard Cooling, and I just got a Griffin 31x19 Rad with the 1.25 rows of tubes...

I had superior radiators custom build me an aluminum radiator with Spal 1800 cfm dual fans and Shroud with -20 inlet and outlets. It keeps my Mega Block Hemi cooler on the street with more than double the horsepower of some of my other cars. Been stuck in dead stop 95 degree traffic multiple times and never went above 176 degrees on my digital Racepak display screen. I am happy with it so far.

On my Hemi Dart, I used the Mercedes fan and Howie's controller. That thing really moved some air. No room, so I had an electric pump. I didn't spend a lot of time driving it, but it cooled okay in 90*+ weather.

Anybody know much about Nascar cooling ?

What is it, 800HP at WOT for a couple hours ? And I thought they didn't like airflow going into the engine bay.

i tried running e85 in mine to get it cooler,didnt work

It's hard to beat a factory 26 inch radiator with a shroud and clutch fan and a 7 blade fan.

hi

i have a wizard rad in my 340 valiant , it came with the car .

i dont think it is any better than some of the other alu radiator out there .


i got an alu rad off e bay from autocity 1958 for my hemi car and it cools very good , 195 sitting in traffic on a 85deg day .

180 deg stat .

I had struggled to find fans thin enough to fit my setup that also flowed good air. I bit the bullet last year and bought a Delta Pag 18" brushless 4000CFM fan and controller. I ran a dodge intrepid dual fan setup before but it was starting to give me trouble and the aftermarket changed the design and I had to update. The brushless fan is soft start and variable speed and it works really well. I never have had any runaway cooling problems but I have seen over 200* on drag week especially on long highway runs. The delta pag fan did get over 200 last year but it was with 2 hours of 5-6 lane crawling traffic.

I just changed to a dual pass radiator and I was able to tuck it closer to the core support so I think I will be able to have my friend fabricate a shroud for the fan this time.

With a shroud!

You don't have a heat problem at 205 you are in the middle of the operating range. 185 is a minimal warmup temp. At 205-210 is warm enough to vaporize any moister in the crankcase so it can be removed by the PVC thus no sludge.

[/quote]You don't have a heat problem at 205 you are in the middle of the operating range. 185 is a minimal warmup temp. At 205-210 is warm enough to vaporize any moister in the crankcase so it can be removed by the PVC thus no sludge. [/quote]

Agree ^^^

not a Hemi, but on my street wedge ign timing curve solved all my running hot problems.

I have a 572 Hemi, 11:1 compression decent solid roller street engine. I have had various types of aftermarket aluminum and copper/brass radiators along with many aftermarket electric and belt driven fans and believe it or not my best cooling package as of now is a 26" Glen ray max cool radiator, stock fan/shroud and thermostatic viscous clutch. Basically stock appearing stuff. I also have a Flowkooler water pump in the typical aluminum housing. All of the belts and pullies are standard sized for a 1970 RB/wedge equipped challenger.
AG

Yes, I should've added that. I forget it's not a given to run a shroud.

what controller are you using ? did it come with the fan setup ? is it a soft start ?

Delta Pag offers a controller that works great. I just recently wired it to where my EFI will control it via PWM but I haven't run it yet to see how well that will work.

I run the car really cool at the track so I like to be able to switch between "street cool" and "track cool" easier than doing it via the controller. 160* in the burnout box vs 140* in the burnout box is worth a tenth on my car. Having an electric water pump and fan make 140* entering the burnout box a pretty easy thing to achieve.

I have the Cool Guy PWM on my Charger, it works GREAT !!!!!!