alternative to slide hammer for pump removal. Long bolts with large body washers, than use the "V" part of a large crow bar to slide along the length of the bolt like a slide hammer.
The trick to the front drum compressor is to have a flat surface under the drum. Two large "C" clamps can then be used to compress the spring retainer plate (just do it evenly.) A setup like shown with all thread in the center makes the job easier because it compresses/releases both sides at the same time.
Snap ring pliers, small flat blade screw driver for the servo and clutch snap rings, #2 phillips screw driver for valve body, Tail shaft phillips screws are easier to remove with an impact screw driver. Normal sockets and wrenches, mostly 7/16", 1/2", 9/16" sockets and larger wrenches for the band adjustment lock nuts.
If replacing bushings, a bushing driver kit. Usually at least replace the pump bushing and output shaft bushings.
Trans-Go TF-2 shift kit if doing a shift kit.
Under 500 HP, a regular Trans-Star trans rebuilt kit (tan clutches, untreated steels) should work fine. For higher performance, The Alto red eagle clutchs and kolene treated steel are normally used. There is also some in-between cost/performance options like the Green High Energy clutches.
There are different materials for the front band, I really couldn't tell all that much difference?, but I don't do alot of transmissions.
A 3.8:1 or 4.2:1 front band lever seems to work best.
An old paint can makes a nice support for the front pump, input shaft, and clutch assemblies then you can air test the clutch assemblies and measure clutch play with a dial indicator.
The large "C" clamp can also be used to hold the servos in place when removing / installing the snap rings, but a large vice grip welding "C" clamp is easier to use.https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-VISE..._gIaoN-2kQaAvIAEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds