Holley dominator issues

Hey everyone. I’m having issues with my 1350 ultra hp dominator. It’s was new when I bought it and sent it to Gary Williams to get it set up more for my car. 69 charger 478 hemi that makes 850@8000rpm, Gforce transmission 4 speed with a rob Youngblood twin disc clutch and 4:88s in the Dana out back. Car is full weight as well. So I just got the carb back and put it on and it started up nicely but when it was out for a test drive it fell flat on its face, I tried to put it up to 5000 on the 3 step but couldn’t even make it to full rpm. It’s like it’s dumping too much fuel.
I haven’t had time to mess with it or call Gary because of work, the carb has 106 square jetting, not sure on the air bleeds and the float on both front and rear seem way to high, over 3/4 of the sight glass. I know the carb is big but I really want to make it work. A buddy that has a dyno tried my carb on a 572 bb dodge and it wasn’t good compared to the 1250 that was on it. So my buddy let me try his fried and true 1050 dyno carb which wasn’t tuned for my car and it made a world of difference, complete different car. I’m just wondering besides jetting it way down is there anything else I can do? I never received a build sheet from Gary stating what size air bleeds or emulsion bleeds are in the carb. Thanks for any help you can give.

Send it back to him or return all the bleeds and jets to stock and try that, no way in the world it shouldn't rev up in neutral due to flooding like your describing
Not good at all

Ya that’s what my initial thoughts were to do, put them back to stock and see. See when I tried to bring the rpm up it would just max out at 4500-5 and that’s it, so I thought it might be ignoring which is a 6AL with a 3 step, I pulled all 3 chips out of the 3 step and it would still stay max rpm at 45-5 so I unplugged the 3 step and it still did it.
The only reason I bought the 1350 was it was a good deal and the guy that built the motor said it will work, plus when we had it on the dyno the 1050 ran out of steam and the only other carb there was a 1475 ultra hp which was on a 605 hemi, so we tried it on mine with no additional tuning in that carb and it picked up 20hp so that’s one of the reasons I figured the 1350 would work. But the way it is now there’s no way I can use it.

Probably 3 circuits and no power valve. Way more work to unscrew it.

Send it to Dominic [Thumper Carbs] he'll fix it.

Ya it’s a 3 circuit carb and both power valves are plugged.

Did you check the float levels and reset them? The float level determines how soon the main circuit comes in. Too high and it will dump fuel as described.

So it was a used carb? Could someone have messed with it?

If you send it to Gary pretty sure he will charge you for a full rebuild. My experience with him on that is that won’t be cheap.

That's a lot of carb for only 850 hp for starters and usually if it falls on it's face like turning off a light switch, it lean not rich. If it blubbers then picks up it's usually rich.. I run 1050ish billets on similar combos and they run awesome and support 950+ hp easily....

It was bought brand new. Then I sent it to Gary, he also said it’s big for the motor. When I had my motor on the dyno with the 1050 a couple years ago the motor laid over at 7000 and the dyno reading for the CFM was 1068, so that’s why we put the big 1475 on it. Plus that was the only other carb he had. Probably my mistake and I thought because the motor picked up HP with the 1475 I just thought I could make the 1350 work. I’ll be doing a little more fine tuning with the carb when I get back from work. I just ran outta time to try stuff. The floats are definitely to high and the jets are way to big. I’ll start there and see. Thanks for all the help.

Could be anything. Maybe something simple or it could be something really wrong. Only way to know is to take it all apart and try to figure it out. That size of carb will make great power on the dyno but it might not drive very well on the street. You'll just have to figure out what your priorities are. A nice 1050 usually works best for the street and often for the track. Once you get to the really big carbs they can act a little "funny". We've run a lot of big carbs on the dyno and most of them have problems. The 1050 design is very solid and there are really good 1250 carbs out there but the big carbs seem to have issues more often than not.

You might try Lightning Carbs https://www.facebook.com/lightningracingcarburetors/ He is a Moparts member but I haven't seen him post for a while. He has a booster flow setup so he can figure out pretty quickly if the carb is going to work or not. My guess is that your carb has some sort of booster issue. If so, it can be a difficult thing to sort out without having the correct tools. The really big carbs sometimes have booster signal issues and the average guy doesn't have a chance to solve that stuff. Good luck!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions, I really appreciate all the help. See I kinda ran outta time to play around with the carb as I had to head back to work. I’ll definitely be trying to figure it out when I get home. Gary didn’t want me to touch anything on the carb as he said put it on and run it, it won’t run well enough to race a lawnmower at this point. My neighbour has a engine dyno and I was thinking of pulling the motor to dial it in on the dyno but that a lot of work just for that. I’m undecided on that. I’ll start off by calling him and seeing what he says.

You've already proved that the carb is bad, the question now is how to figure it out. One simple test is to look down the throttle bores while the engine is running. If you see a dry bore then that might be the problem. Or if you see a ton of fuel coming out of one booster then that is a clue.