Best hp per $$ items for an 8 second build

After having gone down the wrong road more than a few times over the years, i thought it would be good to get opinions on where to put the money to build an 8 second door car? Lets hear it,,,!

Well, i will start, cubic inchs. Buy all you can. Aluminum 4.5 bore block.
Light weight race disc brakes, due to weight savings
Lithium battery and leave it up front. ( 16.5 lbs, save at least 8 to 10 lbs on cables to back of car)
Chrome moly cage, mustang II front, ladderbars

According to one wallace calculater, it takes 3.6 hp per lb or less to achieve a hi 8 second run, for referance

Light car, big tyre chassis. Total opposite to what I've done

We already know. We just don't do it. Don't start with a factory car. Use a light 4 link, strut, tube chassis, panel car. A big engine with high compression. My original short block with similar -1 heads went 8.10@169, 2470lbs 10 years ago before I got it.
Doug

Your 655 in my not so light 3300lb '69 Cuda would've gone 8.50>60's@155 if the 2x3 chassis would've handled it.

As for parts we have a '69 Cuda going 8.70's@154 with an all ally 540 low deck motor on alky with rons toilet, -1's and an .800-ish roller.

My original short block with similar -1 heads went 8.10@169, 2470lbs 10 years ago before I got it.
Doug

Doug...what kind of chassis/car was this?

The boosted guys tend to go a different route....ebay turbo & a junkyard LS seems to be all they need.

Member here TS3303. Tube chassis latter model Daytona.
Doug

Still hopeful that we will dip into the 8's in good air with the 655, needs an honest 1100hp though.

Nitrous

Remove weight.

From what you have or by trading up to a lighter car.

No doubt lighter is better period! Cheaper to loose weight than build power. There is no "magic bullet" but having a goal and a plan and STICKING to it will usually yield the desired result. Also having the "want to" is a large part of it, as long as the goals are REALISTIC!

Having said all that been a LONG time since I have NOT had an 8 second car. My 64 has been in the 8's at 3600. I would imagine it makes less power than many here think. It is still a work in progress as well. I just cut the old age out and put a new moly one in it, still have some ignition issue to find and that will likely lead to a complete rewire if the car. My current goal is to run an 8 here in Vegas. We have been 9.teens so far here and one hero run a tad quicker. I just plan to refine whats already done, converter is a tad tight, shocks are just ok and until I can get the chassis to work with all the power in at the hit Ill likely not make my goal. But I know its achievable and realistic. We are also hoping with a few minor changes to the dragsters engine to be in the 6's with a BB Mopar NA...My truck I am building for .90 stuff so ultimately the ET goal does not matter as setting a car up for max MPH on the stop is not the way to go the quickest ET's but hopefully it can go 5.0's in the 1/8 in great air.

tube chassis lebaron 540 .750 roller 1150 dom 2450lbs 8.85 155
used race car $10,000-20,000 engine 10,000 = $30.000 ?

Nitrous

The cheapest power you can get right now is probably a stock bottom end LS, Gen III Hemi, or Coyote ford with a turbo charger on it. Its insane how fast some low budge builds have gone. One of our own members has stepped over to the darkside and gas a 8 second turbo LS mustang, I just can't remember his screen name lol.

The sloppy mechanics 8 seconds for $8000 build was interesting also. Started with nothing but knowledge and went 8.83 for 8000ish. Link https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/sloppy-builds/8s-for-8-mustang

Hey Greg! If/When I get my junk truck in the 8's, then I will chime on on this tread!

We should Just start calling this website “anything goes” or “whatever it takes”. Man Mopar guys are a different breed now.

I love watching his builds. The white Colorado was awesome! Slammed together used bits with a China turbo and doing 1,000 HP at the rear wheels. He has a Fairmont waiting in the wings that should be interesting.

I accept all fast cars, the ones I own happen to be Mopars but I will pay attention and learn from all of it.

If my whole setup were to burn to the ground I would probably come back with a Fox body mustang with a Gen III hemi lol.

Ditto!

A neighbor friend has a really cool '70 Chevelle that has an LS with a turbo. I love learning about tuning it and helping him with it when I can.

It's so quiet and streetable yet runs 11.40's @ 119 @ 3,700 lbs on a 150,000 mile van engine.

Definitely don't go my route. W9 in a 68 dart.
Ridiculous amount of money and labor.

From my experience it's hard to beat the turbo stuff if you're willing to fab a little.

The most expensive part isn't making 8 sec power, it's the 8 second fuel system, Trans, axle, suspension to make it all hook, chassis to cert 8.50, etc.

Power is pretty easy.

Grab a 6.4L Big Gas out of a junk yard truck. Has strong short block, hellcat head castings, add a cam and let ot rip.

LOL. What's it weigh on the line at the tree?

Is that $30.000 car for sale?? Where is posy

Thanks Doug

I talked to a local gen3 hemi racer who said a stock gen 3 turbocharged with ring gaps opened up made 1000 hp and lives! So, that looks like a good route to the 8s on the cheap, sorta.

Did you see the guy at a car show and did you ask him what it runs??? Or was it at a Bar.

Take a look at 80Volares build... 5.30s in.the 1/8th with turbo gen 3 power.

My buddy in high school had one just like it! lol

If I stumble across something like that it will probably be bye bye LA motor for me. My Dad and I were just discussing what to do next with motor in my car. We started talking W9s and all that comes with and in the meantime I can't even get roller lifters for my current R1 block. Gen III really looks like the next good avenue.

Gen 3s are great for a inexpensive boosted build or a mild n/a build. Once you start upgrading valvetrain parts it gets expensive fast.

....seriously tho i have herd of a few of those Gen's 3 powerplants making some steam but only a few. That guy that started the quest for the 4's thread seems to have a handle on it.

I'm with Al, light weight is the best thing you can do for your car.. Makes it easier on parts and gets better mpg. Like A l says make a plan and stick to it. Every ounce adds up to pounds and a better et. Simple little things, example: wheel studs, do you need that extra inch sticking out? Just cut the excess off and leave a couple thds sticking out past the nut. Even those aluminum spacers, they don't need to be 3/4" thick.Those little things really add up Ain't nothing gooder than a light car.

I took a nice light car (my black duster) and took it from 2550 to 2880 in a year. Lol. But boy is it user friendly. I add alcohol every round just for something to do and race the dog-gone thing.

Did you see the guy at a car show and did you ask him what it runs??? Or was it at a Bar.
Hey, thanks for the kind words. Doesn't matter to me if you believe it or not.

😃👍 Tell us your plan

I have thought that if i ever broke my BB stuff, i would go gen3/procharger, mechanical injection on methanol.

I went w/ cubic inches and nitrous b/c my car is a sled and I prefer the old school stuff. Mine is somewhere around 3800 lbs depending on the scale and has been 8.90s. It's faster now, but I haven't made a 1/4 mile pass in 3 years.
I've never wanted a "race" car, which is why my car is still slow.

This is kind of a loaded question. We all know if you want an 8 second time slips, its simply HP to weight ratio. There are basically 3 types of cars looking for the same time slip. Street car, Bracket car, Class car.