Tubular K-member options?

DRAG RACE ONLY, tubular K-member, '72 E-body. What options are currently available? CAP was acquired by QA1 about 2011, Carl Gerst was acquired by QA1 last year, Bondo Bob, I don't know where he went. Looking at QA1's site, it doesn't look like they offer anything but street kits (sway bars, power rack/pinion, Mustang II spindles, ect)
Anyone know of light weight products for drag racing that are available?

Thanks, Brian

RMS has a great setup.
CAP had provisions for using original torsion bars. Not sure now with QA1.
Then there's that setup by that guy who graveyard cares uses. The guy with the long hair and I know for a fact that his tubular setup is horrible.
I can't remember his name. I'm getting old.

For the minimal weight loss, and unless you are having issues with things fitting in the engine bay….darn those front ends are a lot of money to throw at a car. A ton.

I did a QA1 for a friend. Its needed roughly 2 " of tie rod spacer to get the geometry close.
Doug

Did it have provisions for torsion bars?
And yes 2" of spacers is what I needed as well.

We use the QA1 cross member that uses Torsion bars. Also have the old CAP UCA's with Heim ends, the QA1 LCA's and adjustable strut rods. We have plenty of castor dialed in and can have over 6" of suspension travel which helps with Caltracs. Happy with it. We did bend the cross member enough to push the steering into the headers after a messy wheelstand. So we have a new one on the way. Also we don't use the engine mounts, they will have to be cut off on the drivers side at least if you use any sort of external oiling system.

You can tack on $1400 +- custom headers too, I mean why get all that crap out of the way to not take advantage of the new found room. I also have a very wide custom oil pan.

Comp Chassis in Phoenix built my tube K coil over set up. They only do them “in house”.

*sorry about sideways pict. Just discovered that I could add photo files, but it’s not sideways on my device.

I have Tory Shelehammers setup on my car. Lightest setup, race only, uses stock spindles. Survived carrying the fronts through low gear for 2 years now.

The OP is looking for an E body K frame, im pretty sure Tory only builds an A body one. I will say Tory has an awsome product and pretty reasonable also. I know they all pretty pricey compared to brand X parts, but hey, Racecars and especially Mopar race cars are expensive.

You would think that with the number of units out there SOMEONE would product a front lower ball joint that would work with a rack and didn't need those ridiculous spacers !!

So order it without the sway bar and power rack and install a manual rack - how hard can that be !! And as far as the Mustang II spindles, they are only that in name - bearing very little resemblance to an actual Mustang II spindle !!

Opps year you are right...Sorry.

I have the RMS in my Challenger street/strip car. Mainly for header and oil pan clearance and servicing. I can't run the usually deep sump Milodon oil pans because of how low my car sits. With the tubular K frame I am able to run a flat bottom 10 quart top fuel type oil pan. I can remove both headers and oil pan from underneath without having to pull the engine. Mine is without mounts because I run a front and mid plates. I forgot what the weight savings was? I think it was around or just over 100 lbs off the nose.

Couple more.

When I contacted QA-1 they stated I didn't know how to check bump steer. They also said that it didn't need that much spacer. I went and bought longer bolts and doubled up the spacers. Since then their thinking has changed. It's beyond me why the steering arms aren't built lower. The only other way it could work is if the rack was mounted higher. But then you have pan issues. My stock front end with outer heims needed .115" worth of spacer for zero toe change.
Doug

This is part of the problem, I already have Strange alum hubs, calipers and brackets, rotors & my wheels. Don't want to add these parts to the cost of it also.

Brian

Bill at RMS can be pretty flexible regarding which components come with and for what price.......at least he was when I ordered mine.
That was a while back , but it was almost ala carte.

Strictly a drag car. I run an AJE Suspensions tubular k-frame with upper and lower A-arms, coil overs with front shocks (opposed to torsion bars), and flaming river manual rack and pinion. The k-frame can be built with or without motor mounts (in my case I do not use motor mounts so I had him build it without motor mounts), and it can also be built to suit a sway bar or it can be left out. Still using the stock spindles. The front shock mount needed modified to suit the new upper mount but it wasn't a difficult modification. It was not a cheap upgrade, however, I wanted to eliminate the torsion bars and the stock steering box. Now I am able to use a milodon 31161 oil pan opposed to a custom built Stef's pan with a center link hole. As far as how much weight did I save going to the new front end? I can't say it saved me any weight but I the car works really well with the new front end compared.

To me the biggest benefit I see with the new front end is the positive caster. I now have 7 degrees of positive caster compared to approximately 2.5-3 degrees with QA1 tubular control arms on the stock front end. Not that I am against torsion bar front ends, I personally feel they are great front suspensions, I simply wanted to upgrade and I haven't regretted it.

I have no clue why these photos post sideways and upside down.