Slow progress

Finally , getting ready for the frame machine

I have no idea why some of my pics are always upside down ???

Looking good Tony!

How bad was the damage from that wheelstand Tony?

Hello , does this have front bars from roll cage ? Just wondering if it helped the damage control of your wheel stands . Gary

[align:right][/align]

theinner fenders are buckled right at the firewall. hard to get a pic because of the color of the car. The K frame seems to have taken the majority of the landing. WHen you open the doors, they are about 1/4" off (they drop )

THe cage stops at the A pillar. THere are no bars out to the front.

That's the reason i do not like wheel stands.

You'll get it fixed-up and working/looking right, no doubts here. Let's us know if you need any parts for the rebuild. If you are going to add bars into the engine compartment now, I'd run them Forward of the engine to aid additionally in protecting the engine in the event of a front impact.

I will put a lot pf pics of the process. AND im already cringing of adding any weight to this thing. With the tube K the car will finally be under 3000lbs and i can legally be 2975.....thanks for the offer of the parts

My son had to fix the same damage after Jbody tried to take flight in Irwindle a couple years ago. He did add snout bars, behind the inner fenders and had it on the frame machine to straightener her out again. Jay also needed a new K member built and got some wheelie bars too:)

I am sure yours like his will be good as new when you are done.

And …..

Special 7 at oil pan . Lots of ground clearance!

Ooofta , fixed the pics for you

Looks like it turned a 7 quart pan into a 5 quart.

Looking good man! Glad to see the ol girl getting fixed-up! Can't wait to see how it runs with the new powerplant man!

It was amazing that I had the car ready for MaTS that year…..

At least my wide pan only suffered minimal damage

Laser level don’t lie …. It pulled down 3/8 of an inch right factory specs . Both rails are exact
Same height
Next we see how the new K frame bolts in

Progress is looking good

Nice work! I love my lasers too.

At first the new K frame would bolt up . Only three bolts went in . Pulled the rails in about 3/16 pretty much where the motor plate was . I guess a two piece motor plate is not as strong as a one Piece and will allow that to happen . After that the K bolted right up

Man....this picture posting thing is not working for you is it?.......It's looking good tho Good with it.

I'll see if I can rotate those for you:

Getting there

Who's k frame

Tory Shellehamer and Hotchkiss upper arms. Im making my own shock mount

Looks like one of Tory Shellhammer's K Frame. I saw one of Josh King's Dart as well

I don’t know why these pics are flipped but …..it’s rolling again !

Good progress when it is a rolling chassis again.

Drop me a PM when you see yourself coming down to Cecil County. Since I'm actually starting to get to the track on occasion, I'd like to see your ride run again in its new config.

There's possibility my old car may be capable of being rolled by Sunday evening, too. It'll still look like a junkyard refugee, but it would be a step in the right direction. Slow progress, indeed...

Are you going to tie the motor plate into the snout bars? Though mine seems to be plenty sturdy I always wish I had, just to lazy.
Doug

Will do !

Yes running a 1.250 bar down to the frame behind the motor plate

Looks great. Thanks for the update!

Lowered the back so I can check the trans/pinion angles while mounting the engine /Midplate

Here. Thats hard on the roof, lol.

Looking great, Tony! It’s gonna run real good man!

Progress looks great. Love the ride height out back.

It can go lower, but right now the trans pan is 2.5" off the ground. Im in the process of removing the stock torsion bar crossmemeber. Then ill see how high i can get the trans into the stock tunnel. My cage is based on a "stock floorpan and firewall" so i cant cut out too much because im not adding a bunch of floor bars right now. I have the crank CL at 13.5 and thats with a 26" front tire. Again i can go lower but first im going to see what the trans pan ends up at....Right now its got a 3.5" pan on it, im thinking 2.25" pan. As far as engine oil pan....its going to be 5.5" deep.
Its getting there. Im getting the motorplate and midplate done, then im going to try and tackle these headers, not looking to cut up the firewall but.....its in the ay so..CHOP CHOP

CUt all the mild steel bars in the trunk area out, re mounting the shock crossmember into the trunk area, weight loss so far:
Trunk area 40lbs
Front suspension 65lbs
Steering column 20lbs
T bar crossmember 8lbs

Im going to weight the chromoly as it gets added back in the trunk, but the stock spare tire well (12lbs on its own) is not going back in

Looks like it'll be pretty stiff for a stock floor pan style car. It'll be nice to see it back out.
Doug

I know the Midplate mounting is overkill , but that’s what happens when you know w people that work in chassis shops and you ask questions lol . Well maybe it’s not overkill we will see . Thanks Doug

Trunk : took the mild steel out and replaced with chromoly , so far lost 25lbs to this point . Replacing the spare tire well with carbon fiber . Relocated shock crossmember to get a better installed ride height on the shock as well as lower the car . Pretty much looks better/stiffer and lighter . Fuel cell is getting reduced from a 5gal to a 1 gal and getting relocated to the front

It's coming along nicely Tony! I didn't see how/if you did do a mid-plate?

Midplate started out as generic mid plate from S And W , I made a pattern that fit the car and trimmed it down

The yellow tape was my pattern for 1” tube that tied into the frame rails and the dash bar in the car

It’s not fully welded because I have to take the engine out to get better access to weld . Plus the tubing will get 4-6 3/8 bolts to bolt the Midplate to it . Now this added about 12lbs …. But I removed the transmission/t bar mounts between the frame rails , that was 9lbs . So I gained a lot of rigidity for 3 lbs .

Very nice work . Well thought out

Getting carried away in the back here …. But the rear is way lower , made room for 15-16” ride height shocks , and lost about 25lbs

Looking good Tony !!!

Looking great, you are definitely not afraid to take the chopsaw to that beautiful Dart!

Unfortunately thats what it takes, and cutting out the spare tire well (12lbs) and the factory shock crossmember (8lbs) and replacing with much stronger and lighter chromoly is a NO brainer. Yes the car is clean as it was an old ladys car in 1979 when i got it. Just 6 years old and as she put it , i had never even been on the highway. She never really drove it over 30-40 mph..... Plus its just a 6cyl car so no shame in cutting it up for the sake of going faster !!

Looking good!!! It's turning out nice, well worth the effort!

Looks great! A build like this keeping the car still looking stock is no easy feat and very time consuming. Kinda like building a Ship in a Bottle!

Car is looking great looks like you are getting serious now. As FBS said it aint easy making a racecar and having it look like a "stocker".

Its come a long way ! I remember when it had the total " sleeper " look with the dog dish hubcaps and you still drove it on the street.

right side up

What length shocks are you changing to Tony?

15” ride height and 19” total extension. The current shock is 12.75 ride height and 16.5” total extension. The current shock was kind of a compromise what would fit under the stock floor and he somewhat low . Now we are going for the best shock package and making the room to fit it . The car can be way way lower now and fit a larger shock . Best of both worlds

Couple more diagonals

Excellent progress. I need to do that to my red car so keep the pics coming amigo.

Tony. Nice work man! It’s going to pay off.

Wes

Looking great.

I'm a firm believer of this stay at it.

That is coming along quite nicely! Looks good!

Time to really cut it



Pretty soon

Nice work!

Back on the ground

Looking good!

Nice!

+ +

Must be really hard to work on the car when it's upside down, too

maybe it's "down under" ? [i couldn't resist !]

I can't wait till thru fender exhaust go the way of a the bee hive hair do

They helped me win a round at the Valley, when I drove a buddies car with mufflers. I could here Compson chasing me, and knew exactly where he was...

Honestly i dont like them either....but its necessary to get the lengths short for this application. it was hard to cut that rust free virgin steel. (firewall and fenders) I have owned this car since 1979.
The best pro , there is massive room under the car and around the block, and its got some great ground clearance....

Plug clearance/access is unreal too

I KNOW.....

I like it

Looks good brother

That looks awesome. Love the wheels

Looks awesome Tony!!

Casey FJ

There is light at the end of the tunnel.
Doug

LOOKING GOOD!!!

Loving the ride height..Car is looking awesome.

Looking good Tony !!!

Thanks guys for all the compliments.

Finished header

You weld them up yourself?

My son has a tig welder , he has been doing all the welding

Very nice work guys!!!

beautiful welds !

Looks Good

Are you planning on running 8 02 sensors? Looks great!

Yes 02 in every primary tube plus one in each collector . 10 total

Very nice.
Doug

looks great

Thanks again for the compliments, the welding is a work in progress.
He is getting a lot of practice and honestly the “amateur “ looking welds are mostly my fault
Bad fitment/gaps and asking him to weld in upside down hard to get positions
We did backpurge the tubes and I am pretty happy that even the small gaps , the weld is very smooth on the inside

But hey for homemade stuff it’s coming out pretty good for me
I’m happy so far , and honestly I have saved a ton of money doing all this myself

Very nice work Tony.

Checking off more things , got rad support roughed out , mounting fuel cell

That's a pretty small cell...you tow to the water box and on the return road?

I'd almost bet the air is ballooned-out past the side enough that there is minimal or no drag from the bullhorns. Either way that's probably something I'll have in my future, if nothing else the cool guys are doing it!

Yes we tow up and back, sometimes drive back. Plus im only racing 1/8 mile

Got cha nice build.

Little more progress , dyno and picked up new engine . Sat it in for mock-up

right side up

Are you going over to Coil near Plug ignition Tony?

I ran coil on plug even with the carburetor. Yes still going to be COP . I was using a Holley dominator ECU for nitrous control and the ignition. Now it’s 100% EFI

Bad mofo!

Dyno results say …… yes it is
Can’t wait to see what it makes on the hose

I'm loving the progress updates. It was already badass before, and is even more badass now!!

Yes, exactly my thoughts. Tony, can you say what it dyno'd? Or what you think it'll make on spray? If not, I understand.

I have petitioned a weight break for mopar bb in ultra street for a couple years now . I have raced as much as asked to get the weight breaks I asked for . Now , a BB mopar nitrous combination can weigh 50lbs less than a Pontiac , and 300lbs less than a BB Chevy .
Now , that being said , let’s just say the field has been leveled !
The HP is GOOD and it will get 600? Of nitrous added
I will say I was surprised to see the hp keep going up from 7300 to 7800 as most B1 combos seem to stop making HP at 7300

Looking forward to seeing track results. Quality of the build is fantastic.
Doug

FWIW my last three B1 combos have made peak power well past 7300. Mylatest one peaks at 7800...But alot of Mopar guys just dont want to go there IMO

As Always bada$$ car and combo cant wait to see the end result.

Radiator and water pump mounted

I must be good …. Only took two licks of body filler (after epoxy primer )

The current version of Ultra Street rules have been released. A BB 588 Mopar can be 2925 with up to a .050 jet in a direct port or 2875 with a plate (unlimited jet) . So its looking pretty good to run a BB Mopar.....IF you dont like money...

Mopars to the front! That's interesting considering the NA 10.5 Pontiac gets to be 100 pounds less than a BBMopar. (hopefully that will be adjusted/corrected too) Regardless, I feel what you have lobbied for is fair!

Tony, would you post the rules here? I can't access them currently.

https://racertra.com/competition/rules/US.pdf

Getting there , the black you see in the rust pits is Por15 . This was original paint on the frame rails , so there were some thin spots that had a little surface rust . Inside the rails look pretty good . This car has been garaged since 1983? So it’s pretty clean …..lol

IF you wondering how i get the por15 to stay in only the rust pits.....i paint the area with por15, then come back next day and pass some 180 over it. It comes right off the "clean" metal but stays on the rust spots/pits. It seems to work ok, then i gave it two coats of epoxy primer and two coats of urethane primer.

Nice work on the cowl, smooth. And would it be an Aero improvement? The old nascar stuff always had the cowl blocked off like that.

Not 100% sure , but with lexan windows I don’t need air coming in the car . I had been running with it taped off with masking tape for a while now . The cowl hood hides that so you never saw the tape .
Plus in my opinion it just looks so nice

Getting close, keep at it! Nice work

One other reason to do that is that in the event of a underhood fire the cowl 'air' finds it's way into the interior.

Just in case you wanted to know what the lower control arm bump stop contact on the frame weighs ….. I don’t need it . Thats almost 2 lbs !!!

Eliminated the emblems , welded up the holes . I guess it’s not a “swinger” anymore

Getting there now ….. finally a little paint

VERY NICE !

I like the fact that you do your own work i hoping you get the picture posting down. Looks Good tho.

Whats the plan for the trunk floor? Carbon or aluminum?

WELL... i have to buy a converter, and i have spent a lot so far..... my wife and i took a trip to the local "recycling/scrap" yard. I told her, if i can find alum sheet for under $50.00 thats what its going to be ( for now) SO guess what i got for $30.00 ..... i got some .040 aluminum sheet. Now it is all flat and when i can, i will buy some carbon sheet to replace it.
Now i just need to decide if im painting it body color OR Faux carbon , im leaning towards body color on the trunk side and black underneath.

Understand for sure. Carbon aint a budget friendly material for sure. I just finished up the entire bed along with two sheets for the bed cover. Along with some other misc pieces of varying thicknesses. Mine was all aluminum with a tinted plexi bed cover before.

VERY NICE work Al.

Well here’s the floor parts , one step closer

You guys are steps way far ahead of me. Can't wait to see them run.
Doug

Your fab work is looking killer like usual!!

Looks good brother

Not perfect but kind of the look I was after . The trunk lid will really never be off so

Thanks , but I’m sure it’s not top level fab , but it should get the job done

Thanks , we are trying

Getting close, nice progress/work! WHY ARE THE PICS RIGHT-SIDE UP!!!???

Ya right, it's just terrible. Really? I'd be proud of it. The best part is you are doing it a home. Not all can say that.
Doug

All that, and still plenty of room for groceries. Great work.

Nice!

Love the progress pics.

I KNOW.... I was shocked to see them right side up for once

ThankYou

Ive always loved the car and thought it performed very well, cant wait to see how well it does with all the nice upgrades!

Got the fenders painted , I have to slide in my buddy’s shop when it’s slow , which it hasn’t been lately . One more step closer .

Thank you

Looking good. I like the progress.

Waiting for an “open” day in the booth

Coming along nicely Tony.

Looking good Tony! Thanks for continuing to share your progress.

Looking great like usual!!!

Some roll cage and backseat freshen up

Getting close!

I'll be glad when the hole in the fender trend dies. , just like women covered in tattoos

i like it !
what are you using for paint, and what color is that ?

are you saying you "like" tattooed women ?

Once the firewall, framerails are painted, then its going to start going fast . Im waiting to slide into the booth. Unfortunately for me, the shop is busy this week so i keep plugging away at what i can

What part/ paint are you talking about?? If you mean the roll cage, its Spies Hecker base coat. No clear and it dries pretty smooth and satin look to it.
The color is called Braunbeige. I used a color scanner to come up with it. I can make paint at my job and load it into spray cans, so its super convenient to spray , and touchups are easy also

IF you trying to make the primary tubes as short as possible, there really no alternative. Believe me, i really dont like it myself

do not

just ribbin' ya, dad.

I know

Really looking great.

On the screen the color looks super close to the original beige so many of them were, back in the day.

prosthetic leg tan

Now this is some progress

it be defining gravity Talk about lightweight racing parts :whistling :

NICE!

I hope this is the only time it's ever upside down. Looks great.
Doug

Looking good Tony! I’ve enjoyed reading/watching this…..

Look's Good .can't wait to see it out putting in work

You're on the home stretch now! Is there any other fab work or parts you're waiting on, or is it into final assembly now that the engine bay is painted?

My Dad always called it Baby $#i+ Yellow.

It's looking slick. So is that the end of paint? Nothing left to do except build al the Big Shiney Man Jewelry back up again?

Only part not here yet is Converter. only "fab" work left is wiring. I did measure out the harness already so its kind of already started, if that makes sense. There willbe some work to be completed with the wiring. But yes, now its mostly all going back together now

Still have to paint a few small items, Not decided on a color for the K frame and control arms yet,

looking good tony

Looks great. Almost there as I am engine goes on dyno next week.

Thanks for all the kind words , it’s getting there , lots of little details now . Finally bolting stuff on for the last time

Great contrast with the interior color.
Doug

Tony how fast has ultra street class running now days?That's a killer a$$ build here.

There are cars going 4.46 to be competitive you have to go 4.50’s . I’m not traveling, just doing local races .

Gotcha.....Those cars are hauling .....Thanks

Very nice Tony! Now the fun begins.

Nice spin on a factory-appearing color combination. looks great.

Looking GREAT!

Thanks ! And yes it’s getting to that point , pretty soon they some fire in the pipes

this car was a "street race" car for years, the factory old lady color, column shift, went a long way to winning a lot $$$$$ until people caught on and it got a little bit of a reputation. I never changed the color because.....i dont know it was "my car" and i kind of liked it in that "ugly duckling" way??? any way it stands out now because of its "old lady" factory color appearance, even in its race car form now....IF that makes any sense?? THanks for the nice comments

i really like the color combination you chose, and it will look great when assembled and done !
however, if it were mine, for the "old granny" look, i would have a gaggy green color with a few dents and rust holes on the bottom of the 1/4's......
keep up the great work ! i can't wait to see it finished, and see what it runs !

Love the color combo!!

I'm old enough to totally understand the everyday grocery getter color combination as they were often seen in that exact color combo, and it makes perfect sense to me!
That's why I dig it and 100% agree why it stands out.

I really love a restoration mindset applied to stuff like that in a street/strip or race car and am chasing my own version of that best as I can.

Tony,

Glad it’s on the path to the end for a new beginning! Looks sweet man, and it’s gonna haul a$$! Best of luck.

I always liked that column shifter!

Very nice work! How long has it taken you yo get to this point? I'm getting ready to cut the oil cage out and install a new 14 point cage! I'm thinking of cutting out the inner fender wells like your car, any advice to do this?

it has taken about a year so far, I think it helps to cut only what you need to get the bars out the front before cutting it all out. The frame rails by themselves are not that strong . But im sure plenty of people have cut all of the inner fenders out before putting the bars in.

Nice!

Looks great Tony!

Thanks again for all the kind words
A couple more pics of some details . I separated the crank and cam synch wires , master cylinder is mounted inside firewall now

Nice job on the firewall, car is looking good Tony. At any point did you consider using a Deustch bulkhead connector? I'll admit it is a bit of a PITA with the solid contact tooling but it's a nice solution.

Consider it , Sure .... can i afford the tools to do it...NO

Great job on your firewall also ! ! ! All it takes is practice , glad to see it came out nice

Thanks. It was a lot of work.

The Deutsch crimp tool I got is an "offshore" knock off that was under $200. Still a lot of course but not $500 or whatever the real TE ones are. It's fine for what I'm doing.

Looking forward to seeing your car go down the track. Keep the updates coming!

We have used the Duetsch stuff for a few years now. Yes there is an initial investment for stuff but nice and clean way to do it. But still stuff we don't run through it. Crank trigger being one. The further we can keep it from ANY other noise source the better,

How about using shielded cables for those noise sensitive circuits, like in aircraft and computers?

Looking great and loving the attention to detail. The color combo is just perfect!

They are already twisted and shielded wire for the crank trigger. Asd far away from any other electrical interference is the preference for me. Been there done that

Been busy plumbing and wiring …..

Coming along nicely

Looking great. Wow. I almost understand what it all does and where it all goes to, but not quite.
Moving the radiator forward seems to create alot more space where it's needed.

It's starting to look like a Space Shuttle!

Very nice, clean, and all business!

what, or where, is the overflow tank from, and how much does it hold ?

Pretty sure what you are talking about is a "surge" tank. The radiator lower than the engine creates an issue. That tank allows Tony to fill the engine with water and not have any air pockets.

Looks awesome Tony cant wait to see it run.

It’s a 1.5 quart surge tank . If you look close , it’s fed on the bottom from the block , and there is a bung welded on the upper side to feed the radiator. There is a pressure transducer to data log coolant pressure (keep tabs on head gasket life)
Yes Al is also correct , you need a “high” spot to bleed air out of the cooling system . It solves a lot of issues

Firecore wires , on point with service and fast turnaround. Rick is a great guy to deal with

We have some progress here, and it cranks over

Way to go Tony!

It's going to be great t see it run.
Doug

Nice progress. I spent a lot of hours doing a custom display but like everything else it probably could use some adjustments. Can't say it wasn't 'fun' but the ergonomics are a big concern especially with the 6" display.

Fuel Economy - Disabled...

Looking good. I think we are anxious to see it run for sure.

Yes this is “real” live data on the dashboard, it runs again

Awesome CONGRATS!

Things are gonna start happening now...

Such a slick setup with the coil near plug.

went to a hub dyno yesterday, lets just say ....it made a lot of power , more than i expected . on the SMALLEST nitrous jet

Couldnt really test bigger jets. We stopped because the converter pressure started reading 300 . I checked the thrust endplay and its right where it was on the build sheet. Im hoping that the sensor is bad. In Rosslers directions it say NOT to use the senosr i used. Hopefully it is just the sensor.

Well that sounds like fun...I bet it made a rather substantial, although undisclosed number!

I remember testing on the dynapack hub dyno, my first time ever at a friend of Blusmbl's and that was a good experience.

I would have gone back again later but the owner said the torque number was too concerning for him, he thought it'd damage the machine.

Pretty safe to say yours is making more torque than mine ever dreamed of!!!
I think his was a model 2000? Not sure what it can take.

Switched to a different shop with dynojet/Jake's and will probably stick with them as long as they will have me.

WELL....not so good. Something in the converter broke, as it was throwing a lot of aluminum. The trans is already at Rossler and the converter is on its way back.

After my mess with Cope , trans problems can take the wind out of yah, that sucks

I’ve been following along with Steve Morris’ trans woes on his wagon.
When you start making the big numbers, things you(I) never thought of start becoming problems in the trans/converter.

Hopefully you get it sorted out without too many headaches.

deal with


Rossler is great to deal with, this is my second Rossler trans and they have been flawless.
The Converter manf, this is the first time i, using their product. They have a one year warranty on race converters, and told me send it back we will take care of it. I guess i will see how that works out.

It makes really good power. but not Steve Morris power LMAO.....its under 2,000hp

While waiting for converter and trans , knocking out the final interior details . Touched up the dash and got it all done .

Dash corner fit ,

“Back seat”

Back seat doesnt look too comfy.

Beuatiful work. At least there are two cars out there with brown interiors. Now to seat belts. You can get black, silver, purple, red, orange, blue, lime green, pink, yellow. But brown ot tan, Ah no.
Doug

very nice fabrication work !

Your attention to detail is outstanding. Everything looks well thought out, purposeful, and well executed. Can't wait to see it out on the track!

Thank you for all the compliments. Really means a lot . It’s a lot of work to make things “nice” and sometimes I’m still not happy with it . But I keep telling myself , it’s a racecar not a show car

Candles lit on the dyno

Looks hot……. And loud!!

Awesome car!

Amazing work, Tony! Nothing better than a racecar with show car quality. I love the way you've kept the factory look. That ain't easy and like you said, takes a lot of time!

the only thing I want to show the other cars are my taillights

I've been following this from the beginning. Very nice. Your attention to detail shows. Compared to mine you are progressing fast. .

Tony that is just outstanding work my man. I'm really happy for you and can't wait to hear about the initial track results and results after it really gets dialed in. Job well done!

Wes

Will the car hit the track, yet this year Tony?

My initial goal was the Mopar event at dragway 42, now im shooting for a local event at the end of September. It seems to take forever, but im trying to be patient and honestly i wanted to test before going to an event. AT this point i just want it to be right so whenever its ready its ready. Im supposed to be getting converter back today and the trans? maybe next week. The end of Sept seems within reason, but you never kneo whats going to happen

Looks awesome, love the attention to the small details. I hear you on the having patience part for sure. In the same boat myself but in the end it will be worth it.

Nice work Tony, looking forward to seeing this car run again at some point. If you care, Mopars at The Valley is Oct. 8 and the Island Mopar day is on the 22nd.

It’s starting to look like a car again

OG 1973 plate

Your car deserves to be right side up, Tony! lol

It's outstanding!

Tony,

Why did you choose a cowl hood scoop?

Not too many choices, rules prohibit forward facing scoop on power adder combination, and it needed some hood clearance .

Love it!

It's got be a bunch of extra work to keep a factory-ish appearance, but so worth it for the overall look.

Nice work my friend......looking great!

Nice work! I probably asked before bt, who's chin-spoiler? ...wonder how that'd look/work on my hooptie?

Its for a 1979 malibu, I molded it to the bottom of the bumper and the front fenders. It bolts on to the bumper and the fenders. Width is perfect. I bought it from VFN

Nice! Thank you.

Finally made it out to a track . Working through some issues , but biggest concern was it drove straight (it did) brakes worked (they did) all sensors data log working ( it does)
Nitrous is tune up was too spicy , but we actually got some data to make some changes and move forward .
It definitely helps to spend money with the right people that help after the sale

need A LIKE BUTTON

Love your work Tony

Awesome report, congrats!

Looks great and glad you got it back to the track!!!

Heck yeah. It's all fun now

I saw the car in person yesterday at MIR and it looks great

It did look like Tony was still working on getting it to leave, though...

Nice going Tony! Car looks great! Glad you got it back out.

Full circle, love it.

Quick update . We have found some issues . Biggest one is the converter is way too tight . The weather here is not getting any better so we getting ready to make some changes and get back to it after the holidays.
It has gone 145 in the 1/8 so that’s a start, G meter has shown a little over 2 . We are on the smallest nitrous jet in the plate . But it should go a little faster . All the data log wiring I did is working , so we learning a lot
Hopefully we make some progress
Thanks for all the positive comments !

Jet the nitrous way up and it will fix the tight converter issue!

TWO thumbs-up!

I know
Just want to see how it runs , on a little. Before we lean on it with a lot

Awesome Tony !!!

Saw you there making some laps on Saturday

Cecil ? Wish I would have seen you to look the car over !

Nice! It should be competitive then? You'd think.

Right now , i plan on concentrate on The KOS heads up races. This year there are four races and they are giving points. BUT sure i will still go to Cecil when i can to try Ultra. Its a super competitive class and right now the record is 4.43 !!! it takes 50's to go rounds.
I plan on testing in March as soon as i can. then the first KOS race is Rockingham in April