Progress - slow going

I have been making progress on my Daytona engine upgrade to the new B1 572 CID. But it has been slow.
Today's milestone was removing the existing iron headed engine from the car. I need the oil pump since it has both the external oil filter connections needed for the chassis; and the external oil pickup connection which I need to make the pickup lines for the new motor with the new oil pan, etc. I think I have now received all the fittings/lines for the B1 oil drain back lines. Time to cut holes in the new oil pan and make the lines fit.
I did make notes and measurements of the engine midplate, firewall, etc. for the oil drain back lines fitting in the chassis.

Slow going? Yeah, I can relate.

That's gonna be a pretty righteous ride when it's all back together.

Low and steady they say

As usual, another nice piece of hardware, Jim!
Just don’t look at all your receipts for the fittings and lines for that motor when it’s done! It adds up quickly!
What’s it going to weigh when fully wet without driver? I can’t wait to see the performance numbers on it when you’re done.

Wes

I was thinking in terms of Minnesota weàther, which fortunately you don't have. Tracks open mid to late April, early May. I am still waiting on heads, and maybe pistons. When do you want to be race ready?

Wes,
I scaled the car with the iron engine and it was 2,608 lbs with 3 gallons of gas (2,838 with driver).
So with the aluminum block and aluminum heads I hope to lose about 150 lbs.

Greg,
The B1 engine needs the oil pan and lines, then I need to put the lifters, pushrods, rockers on it.
I need to temporarily put the B1 engine in the car to build the new 2-1/4" headers. Then dyno it with the new headers.
I think I need more fuel pump/system to supply enough alky to feed the HP increase, TBD...
I did go to a test & tune in Mar 2021, so Mar would be about the earliest. Points racing in April.

I swapped the oil pump from the Daytona engine to my new B1 engine. So I began mockups/fitting the external oil lines near the end of the day today.
These B1 heads have drain back lines to the pan also...

I actually just found that same pan here with the drainback lines on it already. Just not new.

Good deal! That is going to haul some serious a$$ LOL!

Hope those valve covers don't leak!

Jim, I hope you have a 7.50 cage cert😳

O-ring seal, thanks Mark!

With all those B1 parts, you must have been doing the B1 heads for a long time.
I wish the drain back lines could be above the oil level. For less chance of oil seepage at the fitting hole.
But with the location of the factory weld on the Milodon pan, I think the holes will be below the built-in windage tray.

I am ready to start building the headers for the B1 engine.
The power plant is in the car, sitting on the engine mounts (midplate and front plate).
That B1 head drain line on the rear passenger side is a snug fit between the firewall and the midplate.
And the other side is just as tight between the head and the midplate. But they are done, and I was able to route them inside the chassis frame tubes. So the engine drops right in with the lines installed.

Did you do the valve covers? Birdtracker

Different features were done by various people.

I was interested in getting a set done so that the vacuum pump would work better. Birdtracker

I bought these valve covers used. They had spray bar oiling in them, one side had a 12AN o-ring fitting (female) welded on. The other was a 1.2" grommet hole. I had a local welder put a 12AN male fitting in that hole. Other work/features were done by other people. The aluminum weld fittings are widely available (Summit, Jegs, etc).

Nice updates Jim. Still very excited to see it going fast. If you believe your conservative estimates, you'll be pleasantly surprised with how well it runs.

950 up and 2480 = 8.09 at 168 mph. Hmmm, fun ride! (Wallace calc)

My "heavy" Daytona with me in it will be about 2700-2750. It was 2850 with the iron heads and iron block and my 235 lbs.
I expect the 4150 series alcohol carb will reduce peak HP, and I can reduce ignition timing if I want to slow it down more.
I plan to dyno with a 1150 gas carb and my alcohol carb.

This might be a little more realistic; and still faster than I want to go bracket racing.
60 Foot 1.17
330 Foot 3.37
660 Foot 5.30
660 MPH 128.25
1000 Foot 6.97
1/4 Mile ET 8.40
1/4 Mile MPH 157.75

This has been the coldest January since I moved to North Carolina. And my shop does not have heat, so the header build has limited afternoon work hours this month...
Slow, but making progress. I have only built one set of headers before, in the winter of 2007-2008. But after the first couple fit ups and tack welds, the third (cylinder 5) went much faster to the tack weld stage.

Looking good Jim! BTW It's been cold in the upstate of SC too. When is the projected track date? {or did I miss that}

I want to test in March and be ready for points in April.

Holy cow. Farmington posted their 2022 schedule and the first points race is March 19th. Last year it was in April. And Piedmont's first points is in April 2022.
Farmington Dragway Schedule

-8 here this morning.
Doug

Jim, i just bought a new welder, Eastwood Elite 250 MPI. I bought a couple pounds of silocon bronze . 030 wire and gave it a try. Melt point is about 1850 degrees, so it actually brazes. I don't have a lot of talent for welding, and the bronze wire really helps. No blow through, builds a bead easily, and 51,000 psi strength, which i assume will be plenty strong as long as i leave a raised bead. Will post pics later today. The wire isn't cheap $58 for 2 lbs plus a bottle of argon. But i can see using this stuff for lots of things.

The sun was out today. And even though the outdoor air temp didn't get above 31F, it was 36F in my garage at 3pm; so I put in a couple hours until it dropped after 5pm.
I did get the #7 tube fitted to the flange and routed to the collector. But not tack welded. A little progress anyway....

Doug,
I guess you are not working on your car in that temp!
This part of North Carolina should be 49 to 50° High and low of 32° . Tonight is going to be 16.
Ironically December was the warmest month since I've been here judging by my natural gas bill.

keep up the good work Jim. I love your shed. man it looks cold.

We dont have snow in Brisbane. Australia. only in the south of the country.

Nice work as always Jim

31degrees outside.... 36 degrees inside Thats call determination there: up: i never built my own headers but i always wanted to give it a try to do a set of headers for a turbo build.

I love the Sinclair dinosaur gas pump outside of your shop!

Looking good, Jim. Any positive progress is good. By the way, my garage averages +15 outside ambient. Therefore, from November 15th, through May 15th, on average, it’s -10 to 40, inside. Sucks.

Nice looking shop. Why no heat? Not usually required in your parts? I went with radiant floor heat when I built my shop and I love it. I can work out there year around and it is super comfortable. When it gets below freezing I have to use a space heater to help out but otherwise the floor heat keeps up.

Both that and the cost $$$. I don't even have a ceiling in the shop parking bays. you can look up and see the plywood of the roof. The 14ft x 20ft "machine shop" inside the building has a 8ft high ceiling (vs 12' bays) and is insulated and has a mini heat pump for AC and heat for the machines.

When I built it (2018), I did insulate the walls that are finished (about 2/3) up to the 8ft level. But without an insulated ceiling heat won't work. Since the average high this time of year is 49-50 degrees, it is not normally an issue. But if I win the lottery, then I can afford to finish the inside of the parking bays... LOL