reusing valley pan/intake metal gasket

440 with edelbrock rpm heads and performer rpm intake
If one was going to reuse the metal intake gasket/valley pan, what sealants would advisable to avoid intake leaks?
No paper gaskets were used previously and no air or oil leaks issues were noticed.
I'm leaning to a light copper coat spray on both sides to avoid the mess of silicone. Thanks
Copper

I would put the papers on with glued to the pan, Fel pro has a p/n that is just the 4 papers.

I use hylomar or permatex #2 which is a similar non hardening, gasoline and oil resistant sealer. That is for the ports. Black rtv on the corners and end rails. Do not use the right stuff...just regular old black silicone.

And whatever you do….do NOT use RTV silicone on the intake runner ports! RTV and gasoline don’t play well together!

So it's a NO on the spray copper coat?
I like permatex products
Copper

Bottom line, right there.

I've reused the gasket using the same heads and intake 2-3 times without any sealant and never had a issue.

With metal gaskets such as the BB Mopar valley pan, there are raised embossings around the ports -- those do the primary sealing around the ports when the gasket gets compressed. The fiber supplementary gaskets are intended to take up any out-of-flat or surface imperfections... they were OE ONLY on the aluminum six-pack intakes from Ma-Mopar back in 1969... they are actually a good install for all BB intakes regardless of the intake -- cast iron or aluminum.

IF you choose to re-use the metal valley pan, be certain to install the fiber side gaskets to help seal it up. IF the embossings are crushed flat, as they likely will be, then the fiber side gaskets will help to seal.

I'm a former gasket engineer from Fel-Pro... Good luck with the install.

All advise very much appreciated!
Please consider these pictures of the cylinder head marks left by the metal gasket. The marks are identical on the intake manifold too. This is why i'm considering just using a liquid or spray on sealer. The cylinder heads were not removed, only the intake and valley pan/gasket for inspection of cam lobes and tappets. Alignment couldn't have been better with just the metal gasket/valley pan and I don't think adding the thickness of 4 paper/fiber gaskets (two per side, one above and one below the metal pan/gaskets) is necessary or possibly even beneficial. Thanks in advance to those who have graduated the "been there and done that" college. and their shared wisdom with us students.
Copper

Looks like everything lines up well, any idea what the darkness inside the ports is? 4 gaskets could very well be too thick.

I've used Permatex copper spray before with no problems. Now I'm using Hylomar spray, it's as convenient and "better" than the copper spray.

My intake is too wide/sits too high to the point it barely aligns with the ports in the heads. But I still wanted something between the aluminum heads and valley pan. I hylomared 1/64" (0.015") gasket material to the head, cut out the holes for the ports with a razor. Spray hylomar on the wings of the valley pan, seal the ends, put the intake on all that. I like to seal the intake bolts as well. It's worked well so far this year

"Looks like everything lines up well, any idea what the darkness inside the ports is? 4 gaskets could very well be too thick."

"I've used Permatex copper spray before with no problems. Now I'm using Hylomar spray, it's as convenient and "better" than the copper spray."

The darkness I think is just fuel and crankcase breather stains from the 2500 miles on it.
I agree that adding paper gaskets to the mix might do more harm than good considering the evidence marks
I need to find the Hylomar spray. Would you spray both the head, intake and metal surfaces or is just a good coat on both sides of the metal gasket sufficient
Copper

Definitely, I think it is worth while to see what fits best on your particular engine!

I coated one side of the gasket material (the head side) I used with the spray Hylomar and stuck that down. On the valley pan I sprayed the bottom only where the valley pan sits on the heads and sprayed the top where you want it to seal to the manifold. So both sides of the head/manifold "wings" if you will

I would spray both sides of the valley pan with Hylomar

I usually use aluminum spray paint instead of copper coat. Works the same and isn't that hideous copper color If you get any on visible portions of the pan.

I don't remember , Is it hylomar or RightStuff that requires dynamite to get apart.

RightStuff.

No one around here carries Hylomar so I'm going to use the permatex copper coat I have. Call me anal but I'm going to tape off the valley pan to avoid overspray and coating both sides of the valley pan and not the heads or intake manifold.
Copper

Good info above this. You can verify if you have leaks on the top side of the intake by spraying carb or brake cleaner around the ports, carb base and vacuum lines if you want. I found it works best if motor is warmed up and idling.

I always block off the heat riser while I'm at it and put up with a bit slower warm up time, but I don't live in a very cold part of the US.

Back in the '80's I had a 440 powered dirt late model, used to cut my paper intake gaskets out of Blue Bell barbeque potato chip boxes

Grant

When using a stock style valley pan w/o the blocked crossovers, what have yall used to block them off?
I tried a cut up beer can once...burned through pretty quick, lol.

I have a couple of stock replacement valley pans that have just been sitting on the shelf that I'd like to use. I've always used the Fel-Pro 1215 w/ them blocked off already.

Other old valley pans/steel intake gaskets, high temp rtv'd into place.

Years ago when I ran big blocks I never ran any gaskets with the valley pan, just a dab of silicone in the corners of the china walls. I reused them multiple times and never had issues.

That will work when EVERYTHING lines up just right. As soon as you cut something or throw in some aftermarket parts, gaskets can mean the difference between success and failure.

Yes sir, Nothing was really changed just r&r for cam lobe inspection, gasket replacements and paint/detail work. The heads were not removed and all same parts reinstalled.
Copper

Years ago I ran a 440 w/ some severely shaved 915 heads on it. Shaved enough that I had to notch the corners of the intake manifold to clear the china rails on the block.
When I tightened down the intake, it crushed the valley pan down at the corners, but port alignment was still correct.
I didn't use any gaskets on that one...ran it for years w/ no problems.