Anybody else ever heard of this nonsense

Was on another forum.
Guy buys a crate motor and cant get it to run cool. Has thrown a new radiator at it, ect. No change.
So he calls the company and they tell him, no problem, common issue, it will cool down 30 degrees once its “ broken in”
Lol
Trying to think of anything i have ever had that tan any cooler the next week, next month, next year.
Being in the car business, i have driven literally thousands of brand new cars, cant remember any that didn't run cool initially, that didn't have to “ break in” to run cool.
They probably figure he will throw enough parts at it to fix the issue before its broken in.

It can be true with a complete rebuild that it might run warmer on the first few startups while it does "break in" but not 30 degrees. Especially a stock type motor should not be running "hot" like that. Make sure to burp it good but I would not continue to keep running it until I identified the reason.
Todd

Right. This guy was told it was normal for the first 500 miles. Crazy.....

500 miles at a 1/4 mile at a time could take years. LOL I would say either the engine is too tight or something in the cooling system is partially blocked. Does the owner have one of those digital thermometers ? If so I would read it all over the engine and find the hot spots

Complete nonsense. Either the new owner is doing something wrong i.e., air trapped in the cooling system, timing, lean, wp flow direction etc. Or, there's a problem with the new engine. Head gasket(s) on backwards, blockage in the cooling passages, cylinder walls are too thin, engine is too tight (and I have doubts about that issue),,

Or, it's not running hot at all and there's a fault in the temp sender or gauge.

But running hot until broke-in is bs, slightly warmer...maybe, but noticeably hotter? Nope.

this ! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

LMAO..... did they tell him take the rad cap off and let it run until it "burped" ??? Maybe they figure he just has air trapped and eventually its going to come out ??

Makes zero sense for sure but it got him off the phone. Id suggest he checks his ignition timing and maybe even ad a few degress. Seen many engine run hot from not enough initial timing..But the why is a whole other story.

Too warm in January? It's really gonna suck this summer. "Broken in" or not.

Yea, he is driving it now(408 stroker) and its staying around 190 with it 40 degrees out he says. Hopes it will be “ broken in “ by summer time. Not sure where he lives

190 degrees is NOT hot even at 40 degrees outside. There are a lot of unanswered questions here.
Gus

The guy is an idiot. You DiD tell him he’s an idiot right? If you didn’t.....why not? Seriously?

When it was 85 out the guy said it ran 215. Believe he stopped driving it after swapping in a radiator and it staying at that temp.
Then he lets it sit and tries it again when its 40 out and it runs 190.

It seems he doesn't know how to fix it or find out what is causing the heating problems, he should take it to a good shop and get them to tell them what it needs or have them fix it

The guy on the phone is either just a salesman or he BS’d, or both.

Is it actually boiling over ? is the gauge accurate ? Water pump ok ? Running lean ? timing ?

is their a thermostat in it?I have seen cars run hotter without a thermostat,too fast flow.

This is the post by the owner of the new motorthat got me


“So it turns out that blueprint engines run hotter during break-in. I got ahold of a service guy there, and he said 210-220 is what the typically what they run during break in, and after about 500-1000 miles should slowly come down to 180 degrees. I do see the posts talking about that my timing is not advanced enough, I could maybe put lighter springs in so the full advance kicks in a lot sooner than 4000, but I can’t make it go past 34 degrees. That’s the max blueprint recommends.”

After checking all the usual suspects such as cooling system problems,timing and guage accuracy look at the spark plugs or co2 reading to see if a lean fuel condition is the culprit.Many times lean fuel and to much timing will cause an engine to run hot.Also make sure you run a thermostat or restrictor(usually a 5/8 hole) to allow the coolant to pass through the rad slow enough to be cooled.Don't realy on the engine supplier's opinion unless they have actually investigated all the circumstances.All the possible issues mentioned should be checked and eliminated.

Might need the curve shortened. It could have 0° at idle.

The point is, the company that built the engine said it was typical for them to run 30 degrees cooler 500-1000 miles down the road after they are “ broken in”
I take that at face value. No mention of..did you do this or that

So... all new cars run hot for the first 500 miles...

Rubbish.

Tech department probably has a weekly contest for who can come up with the most retarded excuse to get a customer off the phone.

Kevin

At least he’s getting some use out of it before it seizes up

Well BTU's are heat/power, it has to come from somewhere, we know the approx mass of the engine assembly, it's reported 30F hotter, we should be able to back of the napkin figure out the HP that should be gained by the reduction of new engine break in friction causing heat gain, and see if motor improves its HP output on the first 500? miles break in. If Hp does not go up proportionally, everything else being equal, myth busted IMO.

1 btu/h = 0.00039 hp

First off, the myth of slowing down coolant flow to keep the coolant in the radiator so it can “cool” is wrong. It has always been wrong and will continue to be wrong.

I read that guys post and I didn’t say much. It gets tiring saying the same [censored] over and over and over and it seems no one learns.

The longer the coolant stays in radiator, the longer it stays in the block. The longer it stays in the block, the hotter it gets.

Engine temperature control is about FLOW. Air FLOW and coolant FLOW.

Slowing the coolant down is ass backwards. You need a thermostat to set the LOWEST coolant temperature, not to set the maximum coolant temp.

If we can’t get that right, we can never control engine temperature.

I wouldn't want it to run at 190. That's too hot for me and completely unnecessary. Modern engines are run hot for one reason, emissions.

Air flow, fan configuration, coolant flow, tune up including lean, water pump, 4 corner coolant flow on the intake, etc.

Besides slowing down the coolant flow, he should put some perforated metal sheet in front of the radiator to slow down the air flow, so it has more time to cool off the water...