Mallory metal in crank

Any problem with Mallory metal installed radially in the crank counterweight? As in pressed in and welded to the crank counterweight? Thanks for any advice.

As vs circumferential, which I believe is the norm? Others can weigh in, as I have never seen it this way that you are describing or the best term that needs to be used to clarify.

So look at me, 20K posts

Maybe time to retire, I should start a poll.

I am doing a poor job of describing the area. Here is a sample pic of where and what I mean. Mallory metal pressed into the hole and then welded shut.

That’s a completely common and expected use of Mallory metal.

I'm no crankshaft expert but would sleep better with the weight added axially rather than radially

It is fine if it is welded properly. I have seen some "off shore" cranks with the metal pressed in with NO weld. Not sure I would be that brave. As long as the weight is positioned correctly during balancing is should not be anything to worry over.
Todd

Thanks all,

Here is a picture of the work done:

I like to see the seam disappear..........that wasn't done very well IMO.
Seeing a hint of it is one thing..............seeing a parting line between hole and fill would be concerning.

I would take the one if the first photo over the one in the second photo. I'm a big fan of doing a weld properly and leaving it alone. When I see ground welds the first thing I think is it was done by a poor welder and they're trying to put lipstick on a pig. If that weld had to be ground to sit flush with the surface of the throw, it should at least not have any seam showing. There is only one small spot with evidence of penetration !

When I did mine, and this is for a street motor, you are counter sunk, and press fit. Followed by welding in the countersunk area. Important if there is a clearance issue. I do know that the performance shops around here for the racers, will only put them in horizontally.

I never personally did any of this type of work. Seems like it would be very difficult to get a decent press fit, while still being able to fixture the crank for the press. I could see this getting very time con$uming.
The guy that did the crank in the turbo engine for me used lead backed up by steel slugs tig welded over it. Seemed to do the job. Couldn’t give you a reason that I would suggest against it.

I had it done once before to a crank that was balanced before it had the counter weights turned down for a low deck engine. They had to fill the hold with Mallory metal to balance it and welded to keep it in place. It lasted a good few years. Then one time at monster Mopar weekend back in 2013 the slug came out and took out #1 piston. I would just make sure it is welded in real good.

Man thats ugly. Here's the right way

One of the Mopars at a fast race in about '04 had it come out, go thru the pan, oil his tires. He scraped the wall. Not worth the risk IMHO.

Mallory metal (Tungsten alloy) is not magic, it's just heavier than the steel removed to make room for it.
If you have enough room, lead works very well (you have to use more for the same effect) at 10% of the price (material only).

I have a crank that’s full of lead with strips tig welded over the area. The whole crank has a dull thud when tapped with a hammer but no cracks found (zy glowed and magged) older SS engine crank. If plug comes out it’s the welders fault, must be rosette tig welded.

Decades ago when RHS was making "crate" motors, I participated in a teardown of one of their 440's. It had been internally balanced to allow use of the heavy rods and the weights were inserted radially and welded exactly as the first photo shows. Just a comment, nothing more.

Thank you all for the replies. At the moment I only have this picture to go on. I will admit I do nothave a warm fuzzy feeling on this.

Here is 50 shades of ugly, done in 79 by a crankshaft shop, offset ground and balanced to some odd rods and heavy pistons. Makes a 318 block into a 340 with a hair of a cheater stroke.

Its dead straight and all is equal and it likes 7700 rpm.

More ugly then my sister, but it works.

Would I put it in a race block.... ummm probably not, but it does work and has worked.

Wow!!! Well at least it works!!! The crank I posted ( 2nd picture) is/was destined for a supercharged gen III. 800+ horse.

The welder knew he would not be driving that car

Welding by Ray Charles and Stevie Wonder.

Was the fact the welder is blind the giveaway?

You can't weld steel 4340/4140/etc to tungsten, so what you're doing is welding a lip to the hole you're filling and making that solid. A TIG welder can put a little weave over those pieces in the crank without even taking it out of the engine. When going to heavier parts, you're often stuck filling holes with weld, vice trying to put tungsten into existing drilled holes where you'll have minimal press.

This isn't best practice, but no need to lose sleep over it once you get it TIG'd. S/F....Ken M