Will 273/early318 rods live in a mild 360?

Wondering if the weight saving would be worth putting them in a daily/street 360.

9.5:1 CR, unported 308 heads and 4BBL, with something just a tad hotter than a 340 camshaft.

Nothing too extreme.

Worth is a relative term.
Do you mean slap them in and not look back ?
Or have them re-conditioned and put good bolts in there ? $
Throwing a lighter rod in an existing motor would necessitate having the rotating assembly re-balanced if I were doing it.......and if you're going that far , then you have reconditioned the rods. $$
Would the rods live ?
I don't see where it would be a problem in a mild build as far as durability goes.

[/quote] I don't see where it would be a problem in a mild build as far as durability goes.
[/quote] agreed, do check the bobweight change/talk to your balancer. EDIT with more thought you might be better off keeping your current rods, more info needed on what you are doing. those rods may be floating pins which need locks on the pistons.

Currently have a 360 roller torn down that I want to rebuild to replace the 250K-ish engine in my challenger. I have another 360 roller that I will be taking my time with building a stroker 408.

Stock rods from the 360 would need rebuilding. I have a line on a cheap set of already reconditioned early 318 bushed rods, that I would add ARP rod bolts to and probably grind and polish the casting lines from the beams. Pistons will be KB107 which are lighter than stock, so I'll be rebalancing any way. Also the KBs are pressed or floating and come with spiral locks. Would prefer SCAT I beams, but it looks like they have gone up in price, and I would rather put that much money toward the stroker. I just don't want the rods to be a ticking time bomb in the bottom end. No racing, no nitrous or power adders,

Putzing around town you would be fine.

The trick of the day in Stock Eliminator back in the 70’s and 80’s was using the 318 rod in a 340 or 360 application.

Knew a few guys that used them for a long time without any issues, and no clean neutral transmissions back then either.

The rods in my 273 and a few 318s were just fine, lots of street miles.
May not be the best long-term plan if the interim motor sees a future performance build, but I get the financial angle.

Back before cheap aftermarket rods and cranks where available the hot tip was to use rods from a 318-3 (industrial or marine engine) these looked like baby hemi or 6 pak rods. They were quite a bit beefier than the stock rods and of course heavier. Inadequate oiling caused more engine failures back then than did rod strength

Not my build but for the price I know what I would be buying


https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/2-i...ium-pro-comp-i-beam-connecting-rods.html

The 273 rods I pulled out of an engine a couple of years back weighed around 727 grams (502g on the big end, 225g small end). I'm sure you can find something lighter and stronger. The Eagle SIR rods are 100g lighter EACH. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-6123cb/make/dodge