indy cylinder valve covers

what are you guys doing for pcv and oil fill on these valve covers? they tell you to use the moroso kit but i don't want screws sticking out of my valve covers? any pics of baffles and top sides would be appreciated. thanks moparts

Mike I welded baffles into my INDY valve covers, and then have the Moroso screw in breathers. As for changing oil? use a funnel when you adjust valves, and have the covers off.

Here's what I ran initially: push in breathers.
Problem is they have a tight 0-ringseal, so I collapsed the rt side during an oil change.
I then adapted a PCV there, using a grommet.

This is my set up.

Indy messed up on those covers when they forgot to add a little extra material for screw in fittings. All they need to do is thicken the casting in a couple of spots on the cover so a person can drill and tap for a #12 o-ring type fitting. They should also add a few cast in bosses on the underside that can be drilled and tapped for screws to hold baffle plates. You can add all of that stuff but it requires some work.

Andy, mine are drilled and tapped for the Moroso breathers. I do not run the nut that Moroso sends with, and can turn them out. The breathers have a O ring to seal them up.

Pardon my dust, I have the front sheetmetal off for bodywork and the shop is pretty dusty right now.
I just used OE 1970 style breathers, stock Mopar grommets and Bolted in homemade baffles.
Button head screws would have worked better but this is functional.
You can weld in the baffles for a cleaner appearance.

I wasn't sure I would like this, but it has
been fine for years. I started out with a breather puke tank and hoses which also worked
but I got tired of the clutter + there was never any oil in the tank so it clearly didn't need any of that.

Right side cover is the same but no oil fill. I added the baffles because it was sucking a little oil. The baffle totally eliminated that problem.

I had baffled tubes welded on to each valve cover for a clamp style breather, welded a #20 AN male fitting onto the front section valley plate with a AN cap to pour the oil in.

That car is so sick. Jeff, what brand of paint did you use on the engine. My last batch of VHT did not seem be as green as previous batches

I have never seen the roll pin retainer on a steering coupler. Is that a factory part? Sorry for hijack!

Dupli-color DE1619. You can get it at OReilly’s

thanks for all the pics. i like the stud welded in pic the best, did you have any clearance problems with the roller rockers? thanks

Yes, it is a factory type repair part that I believe originated from a TSB.
It holds the stamped steel part on the back of the coupler more securely.
Over the last 30 years or so two sources that I know of in Metro Detroit have sold them.
Mike Randall had them for many years, but when he ran out Jim Fillmore started selling them.
I got this one from Jim.

Are you referring to mine with the threaded standoffs welded in?

I use a rubber grommit on the driver side with a pushin style breather on a tube extended a couple inches above the valve cover. I have a filter sock on the pushin breather. On the pass side i have a -12 hose connected to valve cover with AN fittings. I now get 0 oil leaks on top of my motor. Before this, after a spirted drive i would have oil running out valve covers and all over the valley tray. You need a way to vent the crankcase pressure and this set up works. Next option would have been a vacuum pump. No baffles in covers and rattle can caliper paint.

I welded a pair of male -10 AN fittings onto mine.

On the hemi I welded in a -12 male fitting on the driver's side cover for the vacuum pump. Passenger's side got a welded in fill cap.

yes

Weld everything ....

Thanks Rich! I will give Detroit Muscle Technologies a call today.

Thanks for the info amigo. One of these days I need to see that 68 in person.

A friends dad made these for me. I drill and tap the bosses for a 10-32 machine screw. Did not go through the covers.