Indy Aluminum Hemi Block issues?

I have the opportunity to buy a brand new early Indy Maxx 426 Hemi aluminum block and was wondering if there are any issues that I need to be concerned about. This is one made without the three ribs in the valley area. Has anybody used or had experience with these blocks? All machining had been done and is ready to assemble. Thanks

How much power are you planning on making?

Depending which route I take, natural or supercharged , the max would be 850HP. The sleeves are 4.375 diameter and have already been O ringed. As I stated above this is a new never used block.

That block will have no problems with 850hp.

IM making around 14-1500 with an Indy Maxx block. Been using it for well over 10 years and its been ok so far. Biggest things to look for, check all oil passages that they are drilled fully. Check crank clearance at the main bul;kheads, mine needed a little massage at the thrust. Other than that check for normal stuff, decks, linehone, etc. The other thing to get used to is the block will grow (valve lash) and the bores move around. But thats really normal aluminum block issues.

the more you ask, the more you will get both answers, It works well.......it sucks....LOL
Based on my experience its a good block

I agree n20mstr, the block will move around had that with a friends and his crank did rub on a journal from moving around a little or a lot. 850 is a good number to keep things together with a hemi. This Indy motor was well over 1300 hp.

Horrible cooling, and horrible oil return. Besides that, great lol

Both of these issues can be solved by using an engine builder who's experienced in these blocks. I've seen some very creative solutions to additional cooling and oiling mods that solve these issues permanently.

I have been building my own engines for 40+ years. Does anyone know what kind of mods are they doing to improve cooling and oiling issues with these blocks?

the only oil return mod i have, is both ends of the heads are tapped for oil return lines to the pan.

First time I've ever heard of poor cooling in these blocks. Care to explain the problem?

What oil return? Ain't nothing coming back to that pan. Mine ran out of oil in around 30-45 seconds. Everybody says, oh you have to have an experienced builder to build it. Well why is that? Why can't Indy just make a block that the oil drains back like it's supposed to? Like every other block ever made in the world. It's not like them doing it their way is making it a better block. Good to see the previous owners of Indy gone.

I've seen extra holes drilled in the cam galley for oil return, I was unaware of cooling issues, it isn't a problem on ours.

I looked for some photos of the oiling mods to help you out but I couldn't find any. I probably can't remember them all but I'll try. Big thanks to Todd Marsh and Ray Barton for helping me through that fiasco. First of all, all four of the holes in the block that drain the corners of the heads, were undersize from stock. So I had to order an extra-length drill bit of the proper size and drill them out. Next, there is no oil drain in the lifter valley, so I drilled holes down the middle of the lifter valley, the size and spacing that Todd and Ray told me. Then there is no escape for the oil to the front cover, so I used a hole saw and cut a 1" hole there with the bottom of the hole being flush with the lifter valley so it could drain there. I hope that was all of it.

I didn't notice a cooling problem in my very limited driving at the track.

???? OIL returning over the rotating assy cost you power. LOL
External drains in the ends of the heads to the pan and its all good...LOL

Very true but we didn't option lifter oiling so we need some drain back / splash for lube. Also I'm guessing with spray bars and a good scraper / windage tray HP loss is minimized.

I have the low deck wedge version of this block. Never had a cooling problem but I did flare out the return holes in the front of the block, (i have reverse flow cooling), As for oil return I opened the holes up in the valley & chamfered them & had no issues with the wet sump. Now I have a dry sump set up, I have a pickup at the back of the valley & to date, haven't experianced any problems. I'm no pro engine builder, I'm just armed with a dremel & did what I thought was necessary. Had my block for over 10 years now, running in the mid 800hp range. I would buy another block no problem.

By pour cooling, i mean in any car ive ran them, street or strip, they dont stay cold. One street car weight from barley being able to hold it down to 210, to needing a thermostat to stay at 180 with keith black block.... same car, same rads, same fan.

Yes the oil problem can be fixed, but i expected a better product.

Out of everyone commenting, who has bought one of these blocks, built a motor and ran it on the street ...... asking for a friend

Now with that being said, they are under new ownership and they have been making positive changes!

Would there be a problem running these blocks on the street for long periods of time? Issues with cooling and loose valve lash from thermo expansion of the aluminum as stated in above.

My street car has an all aluminum Indy 528 Hemi, I bought the car 85% complete so I have no idea what oil or cooling mods were done to it but I drive it every sunny day.
It has a solid roller cam and electric water pump and electric fans. 180 degrees all day long even in traffic.