Deep Cycle

How many are using deep cycle batteries in your race cars? Is there a down side to using this type of battery?
Thanks
Jamie

There isn't really any downside, of you are running with no alternator or you run fans etc with the engine off you should get a deep cycle. The only downside is the cranking amps are usually a little less but most people have way more of that than they need. If you have to have two batteries or 1000CCA to start your junk you have other problems, I don't care what your compression is lol.

I like the Optima products, despite what a lot of people say about them they are great batteries. I just replaced a ten year old yellow top in my race car and a 7 year old redtop in my Jeep. The yellow was still working but was starting to gas when charging, and the red top just died from lack of use.

The yellow top has deep cycle capability and is still 750CCA so its a good choice for any race car really.

Are you using a alt on the car and is it large enough

Thank you, I have a fairly new large deep cycle and I am considering replacing my Braille batteries, with it.
My concern is if the Braille fail, I am done, using a more conventional battery, I could snag a battery out of Ram.
I also run a alternator, just sharing.
Thanks
Jamie

I run a 65 amp alt and a regular battery.. its been in the race car 9 years when I raced
full time.. I run electric fuel(I should say 2 fuel pumps) and water pump with msd7al ignition and a trans brake

If you have an alternator then I don't think you need a deep cycle battery.

One other advantage of deep cycle batteries is that they have thicker plates. Lot of times in a drag car the battery fails because the shock of launch breaks the plates and shorts out a cell. The battery should always be placed so that the plates are inline with the force of the launch. I normally run gel batteries just because the gel helps support the plates.

What would prevent you from swapping the Braille for the regular battery out of your truck in a pinch?

The downside to deep cycles are they weigh a ton. Our Coronet had one when we bought it, and I eventually switched them over to regular 34 group size 12vs. Experienced no difference in capacity, and I regularly double entered. Probably a spill over from years gone by, just like running two batteries which I was guilty of.

Also, anyone that runs without an alternator is nuts, it's a game changer in a racecar.

The battery mounts would be different, and I was thinking of standardizing as much as possible.
The reason for the deep cycle question, is that I have a new one already. I also will let the fan-water pump run
in the lanes to cool the engine. A deep cycle would be more dependable and honestly, I sometimes
forget to turn everything off after races. Deep cycle being more forgiving for that mistake.
Jamie

I wouldn't rush out to replace it but I probably would consider conventional once it gives up the ghost. With an alternator it's just not the application they were designed for.

I believe my batteries from Advance Auto had 180min capacity ratings, and I also would run fans and pumps without issue. That's a heck of a lot of reserve time.

I've used marine, deep cycle group 24 and 27 in my drag cars for years, starting back in the mid 1970s.
The main reasons are the car sits a lot between uses and the deep cycle and marine batteries are design for that application, sits a lot between uses
I do charge mine for 2 to 3 days before using them at between 2 to 4 amps on a small battery charger, I also added a 100 amp alternator so I wouldn't have to use the charger at the races anymore during the lunch break to top them off before starting eliminations

A deep cycle is designed to be regularly discharged using most of it's capacity. If you have an alternator, you're likely never doing that, even when running accessories between rounds. Like I said, not the application they were designed for.

If your battery dies after the car sits for a few days, something else.is wrong. My car, and my tow.rig, would sit all winter for five months and come spring time never batted an eye.

Mr_P_Body, I have one large deep cycle battery in consideration. My alternator is small, not sure of the amps, 60 + -.
The battery weighs around 70 lbs and will be placed in the trunk. I have a question for you, how do you ground the
batteries in your car?
Thanks
Jamie

Not quite sure what you mean here.. the battery is the ground.. then it goes to the master switch then goes
forward to the solenoid(ford style) then it splits to all the electric items.. the solenoid has a
starter post which I use
EDIT
I was giving you the major points.. yes I ground the engine.. both of my cars are tube chassis
cars so I tend to use the tubing for a lot of the grounds.. I also run a ground on the motor
plate and one at the back of the car.. these couple of points are large cable(usually a 0 size
and the same up front at the engine plate) then the smaller stuff going to each electrical component
I have never has any issue with the electrical on the car and it cranks great.. I have only used
a single battery since day one

I have been told by several, different locations on how to ground the battery ( negative post ), such as to the body, to the frame, to block then to the frame, so on and so on.
I am just curious what you would recommend.

Depends if it is an analog car or a digital car. Analog cars can get away with poor grounds, digital cars need the ground circuit to be dialed in. With an analog car you should be able to ground the battery to the chassis and to the block and that should be good to go. If it is a full tube chassis car then grounding the battery to the chassis and then grounding the block to the chassis should work. With a digital car you need to be a lot more careful on how you run the grounds.

I switched to Snyder Motorsports and am happy with the performance so far, Haven gotten any Time (years) on a set yet but they swing over a 526 blown Hemi just fine. I have two but one may be enough for a non blown application. The plus's are weight, size and cost (less than an Optima)