Liberty slick shift

Just looking for general shift techniques on a liberty slick shift 833. Trans. What are the dos and don’t s of shifting this trans,
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Slick shifted,or clutchless transmissions need to be shifted hard,firm,deliberately what noun you like to use.
Stops on the shifter will help with the forks taking a beating.

I would suggest contacting Liberty and get an opinion from them...

Treat it like a rented mule, and it owes you nothing...

I would grind the teeth off of the 1st gear brass and shorten it so I could shift into 1st. gear with a stock 1st. gear (don't have it modified ) after the run without shutting the motor off.
Never shift it slowly with the car moving also, quick, speed, shifting it racing or driving it back to the pits or in the pits going to the staging lanes
If I was building a NP833 today I would have it face plated, not Pro Shifted

I've been running s SLICK shifted 18 spline for years, but I also use the brass syncro rings because i drive mine on the street.(stock gears with every other dog tooth removed).(Same with the sliders, stock with every other removed) This set up works great.You can drive it normally on the street, yet beat the crap out of it at the track. Only issue I've noticed is it will pop out of high gear every once in a while when coasting. I live with that. Big difference between Slick Shifted, Pro Shifted, and Face plated. Pro and Face are for all out racing.

I ran a liberty proshifted A-833 years ago. Most slick shifted transmissions were done by the racers, you just grind off every other tooth, on the synco and brass ring. give a bigger window to hit at high RPM. The proshifted transmission had the synco teeth cut off and a lug ring welded in place. You had to shift them hard and fast, or you would burr the lugs, and that was the only maintenance I normally did every season pull it apart and file the lugs square. I used a inline 4-speed and the car was one of the few manual transmission's bracket racing that did any good. The car only weighed 2,2300lbs so it seldom broke anything. It was a 340 4-speed I took out of my 1979 dart and dropped in the Anglia.
But you just shift them fast and hard.

Thanks for th reply’s. One other question. What would be the best way to do the burnout with Line lock. Start in 3rd and hold it?

Yes, take it up to 5000 RPM or so and pop the clutch out, watch the RPM so it doesn't go higher than you want or below 4500 RPM or so.
You may want to count or watch out the right side for tire smoke to determine how long you need to do the 3rd gear burn outs at what RPM

I do my burn out in second gear. I take the rpms up to 6k and hold there for the count of four then slowly leave off the gas and the line lock at the same time so the car pulls itself foreword. Then go directly to stag. Everyone has their own way of doing this, all seem to work.