Dyno day tomorrow!

My 550 cube 440-1 headed, alky injected motor is going to get broken in this afternoon and then tuning is planned for tomorrow Am.
Line2line piston coatings take a number of heat cycles to wear in to the proper fit. So we will burn up some fuel ! Results later!

nice!!

I hope it all goes well!!

What did it make last time it was on the dyno?

Do you have a leanout valve on the injection?

Good luck Greg!

I look forward to the dyno results.

Let's see what the 550 cubes do compared to the previous version.
It gets tough to make HP above 900, IMO;
So I am guessing 899 this time.
My notes on your combo:

Good luck. Hope it goes great. Is there a support group for guys addicted to dynoing? Haha. I’m now one of the victims.

Thanks guys! Things went great and i got the coated pistons broke in properly so we had time to make some pulls!
OK, what do you all think it made? I will post the best pull in two hours. 8pm central time.
It made 847 hp last time (2003!) But less cam, less compression, 2 inch dyno headers.
This time 2 1/4 headers and increase from 2.25 intakes to 2.300. Cam went from 278/290/110 to 284/296/114 and .100 more lift. Better oil pan. Over 1 point compeession increase to 15.1..

I hope i’m low, but i’m going to guess 890 hp. I hope you break the 900 mark. You have alot of positive changes, so maybe you will. Best of luck.

Well, here it is. I am happy!

Very nice! Congrats!

Id be pretty darn happy with that improvement, guess that could depend on dollars spent overall, but a substancial improvement.

That’s totally awesome and impressive!! Very well done. Happy for you!

Thanks Chargerfan. I was hoping for over 880 hp. To see another 46 hp , well, not many builds work out this well. I must have hit a real sweet spot where all the stars aligned!

Thanks Markz and Wyoming!

I know nothing of engines at this level, but are those normal bsfc figures for this sort of monster? they look really high?
Might be some more tune left in it?

[quote=Alchemi]I know nothing of engines at this level, but are those normal bsfc figures for this sort of monster? they look really high?
Might be some more tune left in it? [/quot
We made several pulls, adding fuel (methanol) each pull. It just kept making more power the more fuel we threw at it. The bsfc numbers said it was fat, but the power just kept going up. We finally hit a point where peak torque stayed the same.
This shows the value of dynoing a motor. I was certain i knew roughly where the tune should be. I had run a calculation on a web site that said a .117 main bypass would be close. I started at .108 and ended at .092! That means i pushed about 16 percent more fuel at it than my already supposedly rich point of .108.
Also we found and fixed oil leaks that could have cost me a weekend.
Without seeing the results of the unexpected high horse power at 7200, i could have chased the tuneup at the track and never figured it out because of false assumptions i had about what the motor wanted and how high it would make power.

Awesome. Going to the track soon?

Hi Clint. I want to run the MSRA event on Aug 21-23 if possibe.

Greg...Congrats! Mopar Max is at Cedar Falls that weekend..5 grand a day for the winner on Saturday and Sunday!

Very impressive! Congrats and thanks for sharing. It's funny? when a build using orig. B1 heads with similar flow is expected to make another 50HP.

BSFC is an indication of combustion efficiency and not necessarily if the engine is rich or lean. Your A/F ratio for methanol is much closer to about right for what I’ve seen.

IMO a BSFC of .99-1.125 is in the park for methanol.

Very impressive! I didn't expect 80+ HP improvement. That a lot of power out of set of -1s

Looking forward to seeing how it runs in the car. Now its time to chase the chassis set up.
Doug

926 hp at 7200 rpm; very nice. Especially for a 440-1 headed engine.
And still making power at end of pull to 7200. Would likely work well shifting above that (if desired); or if the finish line rpm was a couple hundred above that.

I think the added cam duration, with the corresponding increase in CR worked well together. Also right for the added CID.
That combo is working!

I looked at my alcohol tune back when I was running a Ron's injection. No dyno numbers, but track testing with wideband oxygen sensor.
I was running A/F in the low 12's (12.0-12.3) on the gasoline scale. (about 5.3 on methanol scale with Stoichiometric ratio of 6.45)
I did try it at 5.1 and it didn't go any faster/slower or any different mph (on my combo).
I also tried a high speed lean out (high rpm) looking for more mph, but didn't see any significant change in timeslip. But it did level out the high rpm A/F.
I was footbraking, and it did like staging at a rich level for ultimate throttle response. Just a barrel valve adjustment that didn't change down track A/F.

Conkgrats on the new numbers nice gain for sure. Been my experience these things like way more fuel than most think they will be it gas or Alky. Now get it in the car and lets here the results.

Great numbers

The curve really hangs on well up top too.

Congrats!!

Just keep in mind, there could easily be a 20-40hp gain that you’re getting from the 2-1/4” headers used this time vs the 2” used last time.

What’s on the car?

Awesome results! Congrats

WOW that is some great numbers from a set of 440-1 for sure !!

Congrats and it should run well in the car !!

Good Luck

Nice pickup. Curious to see how much ET change it makes.

Thanks Dwayne. We put the racecar headers on it and the aircoeaner i run. Total hp loss was 5! The headers were tested seperate and were down only 1 hp. So it will probably make the same power or more than its' best pull on the back half of a run due to ram air. We also tried 33 and 35 degrees timing but no gains. 34 degrees is the best.
Thanks for the compliments guys. As you can guess, i am pleased as punch. I was hoping to see 900!

What size are the car headers?

Yep, that is the value of spending quality time on the dyno. It is a great tool for finding problems and finding power. The track is also a great tool for figuring out what works and what doesn't work in terms of getting the power to the ground. Now that you have the engine dialed in you should be more productive at the track figuring out how to put it to the ground. That torque curve should be friendly to a torque converter and drivetrain. Just a big mountain of torque. And now that you know where the power curve is you can select the best gear ratio for the car. I bet you pick up some ET and speed given the new knowledge. Looks like you'll need a huge by huge fuel pump and fuel delivery system. That engine is sucking down the fuel!

2 1/8 x 30 x4 collecter. I have heard a straight tube for some distance can allow a smaller tube. So i went over the forward chassis tube.

Those crank driven alcohol pumps can pump lots of fuel. Even with Greg's 0.092 bypass pill, I bet he is still pumping 40% back into the tank, so his pump should do the job.
And the nozzles also have flow restriction jets in them.

Congrats Greg, Happy that you surpassed your goals, BTW that's some nice #'s for -1 heads, 926 Hello !

I can't wait to hear what you run. Great job!!

Thats one thirsty critter...

That looks great, where did you end up on timing?


Joe

You will still have to tune it at the track. Different situation in the car.

I just dynoed my engine last friday and to get the AFR right on the dyno I was 10 pill sizes off from where I have ran it for years at the track. And that was verified by the ET slips.

We tried 33,34,35 degrees total timing. It lost a touch of power at 33 and 35. 34 is my magic number!
As to tuning at the track, i agree. With alky i can start fat and get a baseline, then take away some to see where i am at. The biggest deal to me was getting the high speed lean out figured out. It starts opening at about 6,000 rpm and keeps the fuel curve very consistant all the way to 7200 rather than go fat on the top end.

Nice job. The feeling of success is awesome as some of us don't get it too often in the hobby. It's gonna fly.

Thanks Dave.
What i just saw was that max vacuum was only four inch. I used to run ten to eleven. There could be some power there if i can find the leaks and get the vacuum back up to ten plus.

Each time we fattened it up it made more power. About 4 hp per step. So there might be a little more power when i get some smaller main pills to fatten it more yet. I will need them anyway as the DA was 3077 when tuning. Add that to the possible gain from vacuum working, it should go over 930 hp or more. Andy, whats a dry sump worth?😁

A dry sump is worth from zero to 50 hp depending on the combo. If you have a really good deep wet sump on the engine right now with a good windage tray, scraper and vacuum pump then you probably won't see much difference with a dry sump. If you have a shallow pan that is compromised by the chassis design then you could pick up quite a bit. All depends on how good your oil control is with the wet sump.

Do you have gas ported pistons and narrow rings in the engine? If you do then a dry sump (or more pan vacuum) should pick up power. The shortblock really needs to be built for pan vacuum to make more power. I used a lot of those tricks to make 900+ hp with the 514 that had Indy EZ heads on it. Gas porting, narrow rings, skirt coatings, bearing coatings, dry sump, etc. If you're trying to push the power up close to four digits you have to dig into the special parts bin.

Congratulations those are impressive numbers!!!! Would you be changing your gears and stall converter?

BBM's seem to love fuel, like way over Stoich for the fuel used form my experience. Like using Q16 just dump it in and they seem to make power.

Thanks Andy. My pan is very good. But i do run a lot of oil to the heads, so i suppose there might be a little power from a dry sump, but your comments make me think not a lot. The shortblock is .043 .043 3/16 low tension oil rings, gas ported and coated piston skirts. The rest is standard stuff, no other coatings.
As far as converter is, i don't think i need much change. My guess is the stall will be close since the motor fell back to 6200 on the shifts with the 528. I will probably cross the line at 7500 with the 4.56 gears i have. I have a set of 4.30s on the shelf in case i need them. My WAG on how fast it will go is maybe 8.65 on a very good DA of 1600 or so. Time will tell.

Very happy for you Greg. I'm looking forward to seeing track results.

Thanks Rod!

Greg, i’m assuming you run vertical gas ports, correct? Not lateral? Also curious....what size and how many ? I just finished my motor, and i put 12 ports .060” per piston.

Off the top of my head that sounds similar to what i have. Vertical, 12, .060?

Thanks. I have read anywhere from .045” to .060”. A few pistons i saw with them had .060”. So i went with that. Any link to a vid of yours on dyno? Would love to hear it.

I had a buddy record some. I will see if he can send me a link.

Congratulations Greg, that sounds like a great improvement to the combo!

My 557 also peaked at 7,200 rpm but does hang in there higher as well... We also found the optimum spark plug burn at 34 degrees total on the Dyno.

We made best power on the Dyno using 37 nozzles and a 76 pill, but the car went a tenth quicker at the track when I increased to 38 nozzles same pill. That is with the -1 pump.

What size nozzles are you using?

Good luck at the track, I am anxious to hear how much you pick up!

Arnie

Very nice Greg. Looking forward to hearing the track results. Good luck!

Jeff

Arnie, 38 nozzles, -1 pump 6.48 gpm @4000, .084 main and ..064 high speed in a spring loaded jet can opening at peak torque, about 52 psi. AFR is 4.8 at peak torque and 5.1 at 7000.
Thanks Jeff. I had the launch rpm set at 5000 with the 528 and the new motor pushed it to 5500 rpm with the same throttle setting. So things may be interesting.

Me thinks it may want to be shifted at or above7500 RPM
The motor was still gaining power at 7200 RPM

Cab, the 528 liked 7450 rpm out of low and the 2/3 actually happened quicker at about 7350, so i am not changing any settings in shift rpm. I have stainless valves and very heavy 7/16x .168 pushrods so i think it is smart to stay below 7500. It should cross the stripe right
At 7500 rpm.

New motor makes more power and probably will rev up quicker making the 1st and 2nd gear shift sooner making the motor stay in high gear longer so maybe it will need to be shifted a little later to get the best results

I follow the logic Cab. I use an air shifter and the 1/2 shift is already as high as i care to push it. Trouble is the 2/3 shift happens about 150 rpm sooner so i am stuck with it.

My current S/P car has a glide in it with a CO2 shifter set by RPM off of the Biondo 400 box, I raced it at Woodburn last year at the Mopar race and found out that by moving the 1-2 shift point from 7000 RPM to 7300 RPM the car ran exactly(almost) the same ET, 8.864 at 7000 RPM at 148.??(CRS) MPH. The next run 25 minutes later shifting at 7300 RPM in the other lane it ran 8.866 at 150.?? MPH The 60 ft. 330, 660 and 1000 FT where almost identical, the MPH was the only real differences, which really surprised me