MODIFY SB TIMING COVER FOR -AN

Anyone modify the factory timing chain cover to eliminate the water pump? Instead of redoing the rad support, I thought about installing a 3 row rad in my early A and use a remote water pump with either -AN or barb type connectors. Fill in the cooling ports on the timing cover with the fittings and match the lines with the new rad. Simpler way?

I have thought about the same thing with my small block as well. I thought about just having the fittings welded to the Meziere back plate, that would eliminate the need of a special timing cover and could be moved to other engines easier. I just haven't wanted to pony up the money for a new water pump.

I tapped my CPI back cover and screwed in -12 fittings. Those lines to remote CPI pump and a -16 from pump to radiator. Welded -16 fitting to radiator.

Something like this?

That is really nice, i don't think i have seen a remote water pump

Andy do you still have any of those covers floating around?

65Signet, Meziere makes some nice remote mount pumps, can even be mounted to a radiator.

https://www.meziere.com/Products/Cooling-System-Products/Pumps-Electric/Remote-Mount.aspx

Yeah, the remote pumps that bolt on to the lower port of the radiator are really slick. Frees up space on the engine and Meziere says they last longer since they don't have to deal with the heat and vibration of the engine. I originally designed set ups for both BB and SB Mopar engines to use remote pumps but found that not very many people want to use them so I stopped making that stuff. I thought it was cool but I guess I was out in left field.

Why not just use the billet Moroso bolt in stock location Electricwater Pump. Puts out plenty of water, street or strip. Have used it on various A body’s for 20 years
The fittings are clockable
Brother runs one in his 66 Dart.
Yet to see a fan/ radiator clearance issue using this pump. Lots of options to make it fit.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/63565/10002/-1

we can mod the cover to use an fittings if thats what you want to do. i'd have to look at the hole sizes but pretty sure you can get a 1" npt or a fairly large oring fitting in there.

I use a Maziere remote pump and plumb it directly into the center core plugs in the block.
The motor plate seals the block off at the coolant ports from the timing cover.
I forget who I got the core plugs from , but they were about 1/2 " thick aluminum and tapped for 3/4 NPT to -12 AN fittings.
It works pretty well.

Take the adapter legs off your elect pump tap holes, instant remote pump. Just find a place to bolt it down. I bolted mine to motor plate.

If your running into an issue with the water pump being too long there are a couple of options, this is what some people do when swapping a 318/360 into an old dodge power wagon that was originally a flathead 6 cylinder. They either run the 61-68 cast iron water pump (the outlet is on the opposite side compared to the aluminum one) that is .700" shorter than the later 69 and newer aluminum pump, or they have the aluminum housing cut down and shorten the shaft to make them fit. http://www.uglytruckling.com/pw_v8_kit.html

Just thought this might be another option.

Something like this?
I thought that I saw something like that with a Jessel belt drive. Thought it was a Jessel products.

I have a plate with a "Y" tube on it that has a -12 fitting on it. I can't remember who made it. It was with the Daytona when I bought it. There was also a remote pump that looked kinda like a Holley fuel pump.

A plate with two fittings in place of the water pump is probably the simplest set up I have seen. Otherwise, as have been suggested, you can go the route of freeze plugs with AN fittings and plumb it up that way.

Not sure if these are available readily over there, but I know of a few people that have used these pumps

https://daviescraig.com.au/category/electric-water-pump-12volt

Not being a tig welder, I thought about just getting 2 AN fittings and have someone weld them into the water ports of the factory timing cover. First over the phone response to my suggestion was the welding shop wanted a new timing cover because of all the surface contamination of a used cover. They wouldn't guarantee results welding to a new one. I like the idea of having a remote pump. Clears up that area and affords a 3 row radiator or better yet a bigger electric fan.

I would think a plate with the AN fittings attached would be the simplest way to add a remote pump, either welded or threaded. Several years ago a friend of mine ran a remote pump from grainger (I think) on a big block chevy. He said it was the same pump as one of the aftermarket retailers were selling for about 1/3 of the cost.

The Durango rear heater pump Monte reccomended used to be about $75 from Dorman.

You could also run the lines into the freeze out plugs in the center of the block. This was common on short deck blocks.

I'm going to put a remote pump on my street rod due to it having alot of angle on the rad to
make things fit but with that much angle the rad doent work at 100%.. if I put the remote pump
on I can stand the rad up more to have it work much better.. the pump I am looking at was the
last one shown.. puts out 40gph.. I can gain about 3" of room

The Durango pump puts out 25 gpm.

Do you have a P/N or info on this pump.. might have to look into this one being much cheaper
to do the same thing(if its pumps enough)

Thats a bit low.. I guess I look at the other.. thanks

Just an FYI on that pump, its a helper pumper for distributing hot water/heat for the back of the vehicle. I believe that there are issues using this pump as racers intend. Its not self priming. About $75.00 for off brand replacement.