Engine building tools

I typically pick up a new tool with each customer motor I build. It may be a simple as a ring compressor or more significant like the Total Seal electric ring filer.

Here are a few pictures of my main engine building tools, not shown are light valve checking springs, PAC install height gage/mic, Andy's BB and SB metal plates for mounting dial indicator for checking lifter, valve or rocker height/travel, adjustable length checking push rod, dial caliper, engine brushes, solvent tank, 9" bore flashlight, mirrors.

What other tools have you engine builders found useful that I don't have and should consider?

I am not a professional eng builder by trade but I have been an auto tech since 1974 and learned all the basic eng building in training and working as a dealer tech all my life. I just build my own engines and some friends. I really like my telescoping gauges as I used them for valve spring height for years but did break down and get a valve spring height gauge this year. And have most of the basic tools of the Comp degree wheel , 3 dail indicators , piston height gauge , micrometers , cyl bore gauge , dail calipers and so on. My brother has his own machine shop so I have access to all his tools also like the valve spring tension tester and many others. I also broke down and bought a new Starrett dail caliper this year as the one I have that's digital seems to always have a dead battery every time grab it. But since I don't build engines everyday I guess that why. My brother also has a boring machine and all the valve equipment to do valve jobs but we have the stones which work fine for us and not the more modern cutters many use now. The one thing I like to question is how important is the rod bolt stretch gauge today since we just torqued rod bolts for so many years ? And I also still use a file in a vise to file ring gaps but if I did a lot of engines of course I would buy the tool. Ron

Those are some good ones, I never learned how to use telescoping gauges.

Here are a few more I thought of and dig out.some are specialty tools for Jessel belt drives.

I have a 12” dial caliper but it’s a really cheap one and need to buy a good set. I mainly use them for measuring push rods and deck height.

I am a camshaft measuring crazy man. So for roller cams, I like a lifter tool with a ball on the end (wheel dia). The o-ring seal on the lifter bore is nice to hold it in place.
From the Comp Cams web site: Comp Cams web page link
I actually made my own with a dia for Mopar.

Since you have a KB block with the double side bolts, I made a tool to press the caps on straight. It also removes them easily, but that is nothing special.

Sonic tester so you know which blocks to use or not use

I bought my Sunnen dial bore gage (.0001") in 1977 for I believe $700. (About the same price as a Hemi convertible.) It seemed like a lot of money but it's the best. It's easy to use and you will really know your clearances. Today they are only $1,000. A few decades later I saved up enough to buy the Sunnen setting fixture. ($2,000.) You will start wanting one of those the day you get your dial bore gage. Don't be afraid to spend a lot of money on the best tools. They last a lifetime. 1977 was over 40 years ago.

I futzed around with wire pointers when using a degree wheel to degree camshafts for years.

I finally got one of these a few years ago and enjoy it.

http://jamisonequipment.com/machine/calspec-professional-degree-wheel-pointer

I've bought a few Mitutoyu ring gauges to set my dial bore gauges. Is this the unit you have?

https://goodson.com/products/sunnen-dial-bore-gauge-setting-fixtures

I believe the one he is talking about is the 2-6” dial bore gauge. The other one is not large enough for common rod and main bearing measurements. It is an awesome piece of equipment and will last for many decades with increadible repeatability.

I have this one

https://goodson.com/products/cf-1126-sunnen-setting-fixture?variant=42340388550

I'd need to take a class on how to use that... I think I know how to use the dial bore gauge but what is the fixture used for and why?

Super simple and dead on every time. Much easier than having to set the dial bore gage with a mic everytime.

If you want a valve spring checking tool, and you already have a hydraulic press, a regular analog bathroom scale and a dial indicator will allow you to measure them. You need an analog scale that goes up pretty high though unless you're using stock type springs, a standard $15 300 lb scale is not very accurate at 300 lbs, but will work if you just want to make sure seat pressures are where they should be for most applications.

I really like the big blue moroso wheel for degreeing cams, too big to use in most cars but really easy to read. If you're like me though you will start writing down 0.25 and 0.5 degree increments.

Also engine bags are really pretty cheap, but I hardly ever see anyone I know using one when they build an engine at home. They are well worth it.

One day I'll have a nice dial bore gauge!

How do you use it, the pictures of it don't help me at all.

I've been considering upgrading my Snap-on torque wrench to one of their new electronic one that don't just click once you've reached your torque setting but also tell you digitally exactly how much your torqued. At time when your torquing nuts you can feel it slide just as it reaches the specified torque and sometimes when it clicks it sort of sneaks up on you and you don't stop immediately but you really don't know if you over torqued or not.

I've got a cheaper brand 1/4 inch pound torque wrench I could up grade but I don't use it much and I wouldn't mind getting a torque wrench that goes beyond 150lbs that my Snap-on maxes out at.

This isn't a pretty picture but it gives you an idea. You leave it in the case when you use it. Disregard the calibration instruction, you don't use those in everyday life. And really I don't use the spanner wrench much. Finger tight is fine.

https://www.sunnen.com/graphics/assets/documents/aafacb1f483e.pdf

Look into a BIGGER degree wheel. The bigger the wheel the more accurate it will be. Todd

Use your mike for setting up the dial bore gauge zero, make sure and use the checking standard for your mike to ensure that zero is zero on the mike
I have a Sunnen dial bore gauge that rears in .0005 increments, not the better .0001. , I also got the checking fixture for it but I don't use it do to the possibility of errors by stacking the checking standards and dirt or dust getting in between those parts, I don't use it now.
I also have a Mit (SP) dial bore gauge that does read in .0001 increments so I use it instead of the Sunnen

I have a couple of those. They have their place. If you buy one (and they b pricy) get the one that does degrees also since some fasteners want it done that way now. And take the batteries out when you get done with it or they will be dead the next time you want to use it.

That is nice ! I can see a pro using that. I would love to have it but at over 2k its a tuff hit for a guy like me who just does his own engines and some friends. And living on disability don't help. But if I did it everyday for a living definetly. Ron

I agree with that. Ron

That's why it took me from 1977 to 2004 to get one.