Driveshaft Loop ?

Does anyone use the driveshaft loop that Mancini used to sell for Mopars ? Its the one that bolts to the trans crossmember as I cant find one anywhere so far and was wondering if anyone uses it and how they like it ? And is it still sold ? Thanks , Ron

I heard and don't quote me that their not legal for drag racing. A friend told me this yrs ago.

IIRC has to be behind the front U-joint?

It does.. those had a long arm on them to put it back there.. they allowed way to much wipp to them
if you did break a shaft or u-joint

I have one I pulled off a car. With the extension needed to get the loop far enough back, it's pretty flexible.
The loop is just small enough that it rubbed the driveshaft, scoring it.
Kind of like a self-fulfilling prophecy but not in a good way.

Ron, I think you're looking for the one made by U.S. car tool. http://store.uscartool.com/Bolt-In-Driveshaft-Loop-64-72-Mopar-B-Body-70-74-Mopar-E-Body_p_21.html

If they are really that flexible are there any loops that bolt in and fit well? The universal ones are really way too big to fit in a B body in the correct location relative to the U joint. I know pretty much every GM or Ford platform has cheap ones designed to bolt in...

Your friend was mistaken.

Plus in all my racing experience, I don't think a tech ever got down on the ground to check for it.

If I were to use one of that type I would put a bolt and plate through the top of the loop to the floor at least. They will make you "Legal" tech wise but probably not actually work the best.

There is a hole for a carriage bolt to do that in the one I bought.

Thanks for the replies. I thought it looked kinda flimsy. I don't even know where to buy one even if I wanted one. Bolting a bracket to the loop to the floor is a great idea for it. Thanks , Ron

I wouldn't say it's flimsy. It's a heavy sucker. I'd have to measure when I get back under it, but it's at least 1/8" steel. You would buy it through U.S. Cartool. That's who Mancini gets them from .

these require you drill thru the floor and only go back to '66

https://www.metcomotorsports.com/products.asp?cat=96

I think maybe stating the "design" is flimsy might be more accurate.

Years back I addressed this cantilever shortcoming of the design directly with the manufacturer even with the single hole thru the floor, and after a few back and forths, he commented, "its not for racing", and then implied its more for the hobbyist that wants extra protection in a DS failure, and hard to argue with that sentiment.

I would not purchase one, FWIW.

I think I could agree with that.
I do find it odd that it's not for racing but carries NHRA and IHRA certification.
I think bolting it to the floor would help a great deal in its ability to withstand a driveshaft coming undone.
It would be interesting to see if anyone had a failure while using one and what the aftermath looked like.

1/8" doesnt meet NHRA standards.. has to be a 1/4" min and the long arm of it wouldnt slow
up much if the U-joint let go

Ron what about one of these? I found it looking for one for my 96 Dakota.

I had a tech check mine last year.

I have a older legal driveshaft loop from Mr. Gasket, I think, that fits in Mopar drive shaft tunnels fine.
It bolts to the floor so you can position it where you need it
I'm thinking that you can weld tabs on one of those to use in your car
The one I have bolts together so you can assemble it in the car with the drive shaft in or before installing it over the driveshaft disconnect at the rear end
I will sell it if anyone wants it
PM me if your interested.

Thanks guys. Yes I meant just a flimsy looking design. I have a loop on my car of course but its one I made and I don't think it would be legal. But as said I have never had a tech look under my car. In fact the last two years when I race in the NSS club as Cecil County in Md they tech the cars in right in the staging lanes and they never look at anything on my car. Thanks again , Ron

I would think if the loop touches the tunnel and you bent a maybe 1/8" X 2" wide piece to conform to the tunnel inside
the car, bolted to the loop, it would be pretty secure.

We used two pieces similar to help the type we have on our Charger.

Joe

i've always just made them. 2 inch piece of 6x1/4 pip and some 2x1/4 flat bar. weld them together and you can either bolt them to the floor or if you have subframe connectors just weld a bracket to the connectors and bolt the loop to it. cost is under 20 bucks

The chassis shop that worked on my Duster made a loop out of tubing (meets NHRA rules) and then welded it into the floor. The floor was slit and the loop was pushed up into it and then welded back together. Simple and strong.

I've actually just finished installing the bolt-in design (to the trans cross member)... purchased from Mancini... into my Challenger. There are two different designs... the first design has the DS loop as a 1-piece round circle; the later design has the DS loop as a 2-piece 8-flat sided bolt together design (supposed to be a better design for convenience in assembly and dis-assembly with the top hole of the loop being bolted to the floor (drilling the hole into the floor is required... if so desired).

The steel is 1/4" thick everywhere. I weighed the assembly and its at 10 pounds (with all the bolts/nuts).

The assembly takes a little time for adjusting the fitment... took me one evening.... determining the variable overall assembled length, as well as the assembly of top or bottom plate mountings, and the included spacer shim if needed.

The unit is approved by NHRA for racing, per literature and Mancini's advertisement.

The only problem with the piece is that the front plate that attaches to the trans cross member will need a clearance v-cut for the S-hook of the emergency cable. The front main unit could have been made at about 1/4"-3/8" less in height... it hangs a bit lower than the crossmember. As I made v-cut in the center, the S-hook will now clear.

Note: I actually have an extra same unit (later 2-piece loop), still brand new... willing to sell... PM to me if interested.