Open trailer recommendations

I’m a Mopar lovin’ beat up old fart in the market for an open car hauler. Any tips and must haves for easy loading and unloading? Aluminum worth the extra cost? Steel? Wood deck? Metal deck? Thanks!

I recently got a sure trac and it has great ramps,deck.I added a 4k# winch.The ramps can be anywhere across the back.

I like the trailers with fenders low enough so you can open the driver's door.
The basics such as LED lights (low/zero maintenance) and a 2-5/16" ball coupler.
Brakes on both axles (not just one) for most cars; but one axle can do a light trailer with a car less than 3000 lbs.

Mine is all steel, beavertail, ramps slide into deck.
Started out as an economy trailer, been great for almost 30 years now.
I like them as low as possible, so I run 14" tires.
Sometimes it carries some 4- and 8-foot 2x8s for really low cars or difficult angles.
I added a pickup-truck toolbox on the tongue and a fenced tray between that and the deck.
That way it carries everything needed, houses the electric winch, battery, floor jack & etc.
I also had bedliner sprayed on the deck and tops of the fenders.
I can plug the winch into a feed from my truck, or use its own battery, depending on what I'm doing.
Electric brakes on all 4 wheels.

Mines a metal deck home made. Fenders are as low as they can get 235/75x15 load D. Can't open the door all the way on my Challenger, other cars yes. If the deck was taller this wouldn't be an issue. A couple of 2x6 bolted to the deck where the front tire set solved the issue. Wood deck might be nice. If it get bad it's easily replaced. Torsion axles instead of leaf spring. Replacing shackle bushings gets old. 4 brakes for sure. Featherlite aluminum are very nice, but pricey. We had a tilting deck style once. Easy to load unless you were in damp grass. Then it was hard to lock the brakes to hold to get it to tilt. Even when they're low fender to door clearance can be an issue. Removable fender helps that issue.
Doug

Clanton that stained deck looks GREAT! I’m sure it’s slick when wet, but I likey!!

Having one built i think will be slick
Tilt deck drive on, no ramps. Then in front of the deck and separate is a small deck with ramps on the side to drive a golf car on
So its actually a split deck tilt trailer.
Main deck, little gap, then small deck in front of it for cart

What all do you plan on using the trailer to haul? An open deck trailer is lighter but can only be used to cars. A full deck trailer has a little more weight to it, but you can haul lawn mower, cars, lumber, etc. My dad has a open deck and full deck, but with metal decking. Both are 20+ years old. One is a Bri Mar, I forget what the other one is. Only had to paint them once thru the years. The full deck trailer tows a lot nicer when empty due to it having more weight and doesn't bounce as much.

Had a R&R aluminum one I really liked. Real easy to push around on the cement slab and liked the ramps at the front for a stone guard. Dislike was they used cheap connectors to splice wires, never had a problem but only used it 3 years. Sold for a enclosed trailer and got 90% of my money back, Mine was 20' could just get a golf cart on the front sideways with 72 satellite.
If I get rid of enclosed trailer I will buy another but 22 foot with wide deck part in front.
Get a wood deck if going to be used to haul junk or stuff that will be dragged on.

Like most things I have my trailer was bought as a project, it was a abused 18' goose neck with a 2" dovetail, 5200# axles, brakes on both axles. I installed a steel diamond plate deck, new bushings, new fenders, tires and rewired it. A couple years ago I installed new brakes and hubs. It looks like a$$ as it needs to be blasted and painted but mechanically it's great.

My advice on a new trailer would be as other mentioned, brakes on both axles. Get 5200# axles it's pretty easy to overload a trailer with 3500# axles.

The two nicest steel deck open trailers I know of are the SureTrac (with the pair of 5,000 pound axles) and the "Albright Extreme".

SureTrac has a wide dealer network. The only place that stocks the Albright trailer is Hayes Trailer Sales in Russellville, Kentucky.

A comment above about how easy it is to overload a car trailer when it has a pair of 3,500 pound axles is very true. Not much more $$$ to just order the trailer with the higher capacity axles.

Also, cheap car trailers come with brakes on one axle. Ask the obvious question.

I have a '20 RNR now. Love it. Low fenders (Corvette and 3rd gen Trans Am doors clear with them in place), but I did order it with a removable driver side fender just in case. Also had them put their tool box on the front, LED lights and spare tire carrier with spare. I added an HF winch and battery. 1300 lbs new, probably 1500 or so now with gear in the box. Also had them install some E-track the full length, and 4 HD D-rings. It's been a great trailer, and I love the extra protection the ramps-as-stone-shield provide. They are even on "your" side of Michigan.

RNR LINK

Have a Carson Deluxe and it is solid. 20' full deck diamond plate with 4' dovetail. Ramps slide in the tail. Brakes on both axles.

Been all over the country with it.

Make sure and get the HD 8 lug axles(6,000 Lb.) with 16 inch rims and tires and 12 inch brakes, not the lighter duty 3500 or 5200 lb. axles with the 15 inch rims and tire
The reason I'm saying this is those dang 15 inch trailer tires, no matter what weight ratings they are SUCK badly I've had over a dozen of them loose the tread or blow out with no warning, all the major brands do it I don't over load my trailers either
I've had 3 enclosed car trailers, two Paces and one other older one, all with 15 inch tires and roims with both the 3500 axles and the better 5200 lbs axles, I didn't order two of them, I bought those two used, but the Pace Shadow 22 Ft 7,000 Lb. rated trailer I ordered I tried to get them to put 5200 Lb. axles in it and the dealer told me Pace wouldn't do that, he also told me that the trailer would weigh under 3000 Lb. empty, he lied
That trailer weighed 4360 empty when I picked it up at the factory.
It was basically illegal with my race car and some tools in it the first time I weighed it
My current Pace 24 Ft enclosed is rated 10,000 Lb. gross and weighs right at 8600 loaded going to the races, I wish it had the 6,000 lb. axles and 16 inch rims and tires. I run the E rated 225x70x15 inch tires on the 6 lug rims, I now buy new tires after 4 yrs, no matter how much tread is on them

IHTHs

Kwik Load Trailers - rollback

Easiest open trailer to load from what I've seen (no ramps and no shock like the tilt jobs), plus low angle for slammed cars.

I suggest:

over length .. tip-to-tip.. so that it fits inside you garage (with the car on it)... mine was 20"... fit inside my 21" deep garage.
open center... so you can work under the car... very important and convenient when you need to do so!)
extra long and wide ramps.. preferably that pull straight out/in
a beaver tail where the rear tires will just sit flat in front of the angle
extra lighting (led)
quick release removable fenders (or low height so that you can ope your doors)
low flush storage unit (to keep the ties, etc)
flipable hand crank winch (or mounted electric)
load leveler attachments and bars
4-wheel electric brakes
extra max-width... for big wide tires and easier to drive up
flush mounted tie hooks
front jack top rest the trailer

steel trailer is traditional and less costly, but aluminum is lighter and more expensive... pending how much you'll be trailering (but aluminum typically is full bottom... not open center... and with not as many choices in size as steel are offered)

also... get a spare tire

the above was the one i had built by JB Trailers (Elkhart, IN).... they recently went out-of-business.. was a great trailer for 15 years of seasonal usage,.. towed throughout the midwest ... kept it in my garage with the car on it (worked under the car whenever needed)... I sold it to a friend.. then it quickly got stolen! I hope to get another similar to it (closed would be nice but.. storage becomes the problem).

I've built most of my trailers... you want 4 brakes.. a open center at the front so you can change the
oil if you want.. I mounted a V-box on the front.. I also welded a coupler on the front so I could
slide a winch into it and when done I could put it back in the box with all all my other stuff.. make sure
if you go with a beaver tail that the tail is long enough so the ramps can be short.. I did build one
that was a tilt bed which worked fine.. didnt need ramps

Don't know where you live but in this area Econo Trailers are popular and are made in Pa. I had one for 11 years it was great didn`t need anything except tires once. Mine was beaver tail with an open deck. I only sold it because I bought my enclosed and had no where to keep it. There at Carlisle every year with a display. I put a pickup truck tool box on the front and it was handy for tools, tie downs etc. I believe they make 18 to 24 ft. I hauled all kind of stuff, sod, front end loader, 56 Power Wagon etc. on it with 0 problems.

Ditto on the Sloan Kwik load rollback trailer. Steel deck, comes standard with brakes on both axles, fenders don't interfere with doors and they are replaceable if you need change one out. Handles low profile vehicles. I believe they are out of Texas.

I've had an Alum Featherlite for years. I have had a number of steel trailers over the decades. I now would never own anything other then alum. When towing empty, no matter what the vehicle, you almost forget its there. I have 15" wheels, and I am normally a huge proponent of oversize wheels. Not sure if what you are hauling with already a light alum trailer on a regular basis that would justify 16" wheels and upgraded axles. As a long time Alum certified welder, I often check out copy cat alum trailers, I have yet to find one with welds/design that matches or exceeds a Featherlite. That does not mean a Featherlite is perfect, but it does follow my maxim, copy's are seldom as good as the original. I hope one area Featherlite would/has improved, ramp storage, which I don't use any longer, but it would not stop me from getting another Featherlite.

My Texas Rollback Trailer has been amazing. Couldn’t be happier!

One of the coolest open trailers I have seen is the ones that have air ride and can lower. I pitted next to a guy with one and he had a key fob for it. When he got in the car he hit a button on the keyfob and the trailer laid on the ground, then when he pulled on it he hit the button and it raised back up. He said he hauled all kinds of vehicles and it was super nice not to have to mess with ramps. I am sure they cost $$$ though.

Thats the thing with me.. how often I use it VS the cost of it.. being that I build most all of my stuff I dont
want to lay out a bunch of money.. trailers are easy to build even the alum ones.. I have 8 trailers at the
time.. the biggest thing for me is mainly the height so I have a few different axles for different types
of trailers

Actually on a tandem axle trailer, just moving height of the rearmost axle would suffice I suspect for ease of loading a car. The torsion axles are fairly low to begin with. That ought to be doable for a DIY'r, and does sound like a nice feature. OEM, is likely big bucks, and I understand much harder to justify.

I have a 20’ ATC with dovetail. I’ve had it about 3 years. The electrical connection at each brake gave me grief last year, other than that it has been a good trailer. I bought it because I wanted something low for modern cars and obviously the older stuff. It has enough payload too where I can haul my bobcat and 3/4-1ton trucks.
Most wood deck trailers you just can’t haul much over 4K with unless you get more of an equipment trailer.

With that being said my dad has a 20+ year old p&j with a wood deck. For a $2k trailer that thing has been great. Still has original deck. 1 set of fenders etc.