Thoughts on adjustable strut rods?

I'm planning to do a little work on my Dart, the new converter is here but not in yet. Also I'm considering adding adjustable strut rods and sliders to replace the shackles.

Are the adjustable strut rods worth the effort? Do they free up the front suspension much?

The car is a 69 Dart street/strip deal, small block, 727, 3350ish #, has ran 6.40 but should run pretty deep in the .30's if I can get the 60' down.

Thanks.

If your front end can freely travel at least 5 inches (gleened from Caltrac tech), the adjustable strut rods will have little or no effect on that. They do benefit the suspensions ability to increase the positive caster by pulling the lower control arm farther forward in relation to the upper control arm. You must be careful not to bring the lower control arm into a bind as it moves through its travel however.

The old Mopar suspension manual has a lot of tried and tested information in it that is still applicable today.

Both mods helped me to a 1.33 foot-brakin 60 foot so far so yes on both imo....

Who's rods?

What was your 60’ before those mods ?

I bought these rods and I really like them. Braking feels much better as well
https://www.reillymotorsports.com/Adjustable-Strut-Rod-62-72-B-body.html

Gus

Thanks Gus. These are the ones I'm looking at.

https://www.amazon.com/QA1-52311-Dynamic-Strut-Bar/dp/B00COY5L4U

Caltracs now makes adjustable strut rods. A good friend put them on his Stock and Super/Stock Dusters.

I HAVE A BRAND NEW SET OF THOSE QA1 STILL IN BOX I NEVER USED. SOLD MY CAR. I'LL SELL THEM FOR 200.00 SHIPPED.

You have a PM.

Question. QA1 strut rods in B-body. Has anyone tried to install these without removing torsion bars etc. By cutting the OEM strut rod out and being able to install the after market QA1? I understand that it can be done? Input. Thanks.

Cut my old ones out with a Sawzall and put the new ones in but mine are the RMS units. I didn't have to remove anything else for the install.

Gus

Do you have a link for them? I couldn't find them on the Calvert Racing site.

Mancini sells them.

They are brand new give them a call.

Look at 60's NASCAR front suspension. Where the strut rod cushions were there is an upper ball joint fastened in the K frame. Then a fabricated strut rod is threaded to to the ball joint stud.
Doug

Thanks!

Interesting idea, the factory mount is pretty much a caseless BJ, think i would be looking a a particularly chunky one though and frequent inspections..

As the "ideal" result is eliminating the travel arc, I think a replacement system that pivots on the the same centre line as the torsion bar pin is where developers need to be looking

I have the RMS strut rods in my car and have for a long time. They work well. I run the RMS upper arms, RMS strut rods, and poly bushing in the lower arms. With the suspension unloaded you can cycle it through its full travel by hand very easily. When I had poly bushings in the stock upper it was more difficult to move the upper arm by itself than it is to move the whole assembly with the RMS parts. The setup probably has 15000 miles on it now.

Why are we worried about freedom of movement when the shocks need to be tightened down to slow suspension travel speed?
Doug

My thoughts are to let the shock do all the work for the most adjustability. Using the same shocks(lakewood 90/10s) my cars front end movement at the track was vastly improved when I moved to the RMS stuff. I am to a point now where I need adjustable shocks but I just haven't done it yet.

How else am I supposed to make my super stock springs and pinion snubber work!!!!!........................................................

QA-1.......

Averaged 1.39-1.41......

Mine has Afco doubles on the front. They've been revalved 50% tighter. Poly strut rod and lower bushings. Stock rubber upper bushings.Car has 55% on the nose. Many times it gets slowed down to run index. Foot brake only. With that and bracket racing at local tracks it has averaged 1.29 over the last 7 years.
Doug