SRT engine oil ... what-da-fugg !!!

.... that Pennzoil Platinum.... nearly TEN DOLLARS per quart !!

Now I KNOW there’s a price to pay for driving this ride — BUTTTT....

Are there any options for a diff brand or maybe buying it IN BULK case lots or maybe a 5 gallon pails etc ?

What’s THE NEED for this grade of oil ? .. the MDS system or the cam and lifters ??!!

This Pennzoil..... made from NATURAL GAS ??!!

You can do the buy 3 get 1 free through the service dept. That's a 25% discount.

FCA service Dept ? ... the actual oil change operation?

I’ve heard some dealers want TWO HUNDRED clams each !

I’ve always used Pennzoil Platinum in my Dailey Drivers. You can buy a 5 quart jug for $23 at Walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-Platinum-5W-30-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/139680614

But SG ..... I think it calls for 0-20 ! ... which is more at AZ ... almost 42$ for 5

And what are your needs for this higher quality oil ?

[quote=CMcAllister]

Damn ur a pesky poster today ...

And I know I’ve got to PAY UP .... now if only I could send those xtra expenses to NORTH OF CODER !

“Pay up, Chump!”
-Fred Sanford

Only use genuine Mopar oil.
If you don’t, it will blow up in 2 seconds.

One of my favorite pieces of propaganda/memorabilia.

Where is Mopar’s oil refinery located?
Nobody seems to know.

Damn you get 42 miles per gallon with that V6 engine you bought in that new car to stay within your driving ability. Pay the piper and just buy the dog gone oil they recommend so we don’t have to hear you cry if it blows up.

Zipster....

Mopar oil only ?

I talked to the service manager at the dealer today and he didn’t mention Mopar oil at all ... it was the Pennzoil Platinum...,

It's just an internal combustion engine with power adder so you can put any GOOD quality engine oil in that meets the specs. Any 0-20 synthetic oil will withstand the heat and requirements without failure.

Gus

NO power adder here !

But what IS an equivalent of the PP??

Well he obviously never read the sign!

Tell him you want Mopar Oil in your brand new Plymouth

When dumb propaganda like that is totally outdated, just makes me like it that much more.

Chrysler was in bed with Mobil for a LONG time, many years.
Mobil 1 was specified for SRT vehicles when the brand was first introduced.
Doubtful they bothered to test any other brands. The rest of the oil was Mopar branded
but rather obviously produced by Mobil, hence my comment "where is Mopar's oil refinery?",
as it doesn't exist.

Along came the Fiat "Merger" (Gift), and suddenly all Mobil products will
cause your vehicle to blow up immediately. Use only Pennzoil. Why? Because Fiat was
in bed with Pennzoil, and Fiat's marketing philosophy wasn't interested in re-branding
as Chrysler's obviously has always been.

It's just corporate back-scratching. You're free to use whatever you want, but they
may take you to task if you blow it up and attempt warranty.

There might be 20 other oils that perform as well, or better than the one recommended.
However they aren't in bed with those oil companies so they're not going to tell you that.

Free to use whatever i want ? ... sounds ok UNTIL a potential warranty claim !

Maybe someone who has ACTUALLY EXPERIENCED a warranty claim can give me their

ANOTHER ISSUE ... adding a class 2 hitch for a bike rack. maybe a small boat or a utility trailer.....

I want to get approval from a regional or district rep before proceeding

Recently bought Pennzoil Platinum at O'Reilly's.
1) Sale price close to Walmart's
2) $10 rebate on 5qt jug.

Mobil1 for $24 at Wally World.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-0W-20-5-qt/17034374

As long as there isn't some orphan spec required by FCA, you'll be good to go.

Kevin

SearsGuy .... oRpHaN spec ? Would FCA pull something naughty like that ?

BTW .. you ever been to the Brampton assembly plant ?

If they do have a proprietary spec like VW did for their TDI, they will have to disclose it plainly in the owners manual ie Use only oil bearing FCA spec #xxx.

I've never been to the Brampton plant but I'm sure I've been in the neighborhood in my travels.

Kevin

FIXED!!!

Ahhhh itis ... jsta UP from your long nap after the early bird din-din ?

You have Tesla on yur mind ? But I’ll PASS on YOUR wheelchair idea ..,, but for a golf cart and playing a quick 18 .... thx fer the suggestion!

This subject has been beat to death over on Hellcat.org.

I assume this is a warranty compliant issue otherwise anyone would know what to do. Here are a few threads on this subject. You'll notice that they are all over the place. It seems that the important detail is the servicing dealer's attitude toward that oil change issue.

https://www.hellcat.org/threads/diy-oil-change-and-warranty.211443/#post-3755939

https://www.hellcat.org/threads/oil-type-after-warranty-oil-expires.239691/#post-4267844

https://www.hellcat.org/threads/oil-one-more-time-just-to-be-sure.230225/#post-4106209

https://www.hellcat.org/threads/damn-you-dodge-and-your-pennzoil-0w-40.225471/page-10#post-4025985

https://www.hellcat.org/threads/oil-type-after-warranty-oil-expires.239691/#post-4267968

Have you read the owner's manual to see what oil you can use? The wife has a Jeep and it calls for 0W20 and I saw Pennzoil Platinum behind the counter at the dealer service center. The manual says "Must meet FCA/Chrysler MS-6395 specs" and PP does. Not sure what other ones do.

There are about half dozen kinds of oil that meet that spec. If you read the fine print in most manuals they give you the specs on oil that you can use for your driving conditions . If you change your own be sure to use the factory style and brand of filters in case it does scatter the dealer can see you used their parts. It can make the difference between an approved or denied warranty claim.

Gus

Or, if you use a filter better than the Mopar brand, change the filter to the Mopar brand before you bring it to the dealer (for warranty).

If you're complaining about the price of an oil change you'll be complaining a lot about that car. I told you in another thread they are NOT cheap cars to daily drive which is the #1 reason why you see so many for sale with low miles that are only a year or 2 old. Wait until it needs 4 new 20" performance tires by this time next year. Then new Brembos....

You'll want an oil catch can sooner than later too, google it.

Thx guyz ... other than from that Long Island ...


sRt .... jsta clarify ... I’m a firm believer in fresh engine oil BUTTT .... if you don’t watch your OWN $$$$$ ....who will ?

Because of your screen name.... I assume you are well versed with SRT cars ..... huge tire costs are debatable. Other high costs ??....the Brembos ? .... so if you need pads you have to swap out rotors and calipers too ??

Repeat ... I'm a total newbie here ... this being my first new car PLUS I’ve never had a factory performance car.

And WHERE are those reasonably priced used SRT cars ? I looked before pulling the trigger on this one. I got THIS ONE cheaper than many I saw that were 2 and 3 years old !

Catch can ? ... aka oil separator?

Im not up on those cars, but I thought the best value/dollar was the scatpack $45,000 option. you get all the performance without the big price tag? I have never been a fan of Pennzoil, but I have been using the platinum series in my ram 5.7 for some time now. I buy at Walmart. Lowest price I can find.

mD .. 45 ? ... my 20 was ASKING 33.8 .. and I offered 33 and it was accepted - PLUS FEES.

Hell NOW ... the MSRP is 41 on a base SP ... then you take off the $4850 ! .... then other discounts !

DoC, don't you mean send those EXTRA PAYMENTS [to ME] north of Coder ?

no NO ... oleHam2!

Looky what I found ..... does aNyOnE know the acceptable filters ?

Well THAT OIL ain’t no go ! ....

Now it’s MS-12633 !

Is the Wix filter 57899xp OK ?

If you still have an engine warranty I recommend using only factory filters even if there are better ones out there. I use WIX on my old Savoy but only use Yota filters on my daily drivers(both Toyota)

Gus

Yes a separator, otherwise it'll gunk up the intake. Also no you wont have to replace all the brakes but the pads/parts aren't normal priced stuff. Tires, yes you can buy cheaper low-po but remember why you bought the car. Here is the forum for the cars, all the info and then some is there https://www.lxforums.com/board/charger-discussion-3rd-gen-2015-/

I GUS I’ll follow your suggestion !

But a Savoy guy with a pair of Yotas !! ...

sRtee .... so what’s the plan with that oil separator?

Will a regular air compressor oil separator work as well OR MAYBE EVEN BESTER than that 150$ to 250$ ones ?

BTW ..... does anyone have a complete list of acceptable engine oils for the SRT cars?

The service manager of the dealer I bought the car at doesn’t have such a list

About the best deal on an oil change kit is ebay, $82 shipped to your door. Walmart does not sell ultra premium 0-40 oil. I dont know about needing the oil separator, what is that tank above the right valve cover, not good enough? Looks like an oil separator to me. I also see folks talking cheaper tires, sure if you want to wreck the car. All I know is ours is cheaper to insure, uses less gas, cheaper to fix, faster, than my superbird, so expensive is relative I guess. 7 qts of good zinc oil and a filter ain't much cheaper, nor are the correct tires, and price an nos 2 piece 1970 brake rotor....so it is really all the same, just the scat pack is better in every way. I have been 160 in the challenger....that will NEVER happen in the sbird or either Cuda.

The oil separator is being touted by the supercharger crowd. Anything with a PCV valve is going to get some crud in the intake. But if the engine is sound, it will take many years and many miles to accumulate to the point of any concern, if it ever did. And usually it doesn't.

The point of the oil separator recommendation is to keep the oil out of the intake stream when the engine is under load. Oil has no octane and the supercharged engines are much more prone to detonation so any oil in the intake tract is considered unacceptable by some owners. Obviously, the Mopar engineers didn't think one was necessary, but..............

Today's engines are much 'tighter' than our engines from the 60s and 70s. And our old engines have PCV valves too. So why aren't we concerned about oil in the intake tract on them, too? The separator is a good idea, but certainly not necessary for any car that is not on the ragged edge of detonation and is in good shape internally.

On the original question about which oil to use, when the vehicle is under warranty, it would be prudent to use the factory recommended oil and filter. After the warranty period has expired, there are any number of oils and filters that will serve just as well for a lot less money.

Keep up with the good interesting info ....,

So 6b .... you have a Chally Scat ? 160 ? .... I’ve had mine up to so far 152 - jsta for a second or two then I lifted. Great smooth pavement on I-75 ... smooth as silk ride at that speed .... very well put together car.

I’ve done some recent research since starting this topic ......Wally World DOES have appropriate oil .... info below...

Cheaper tires ? .. wrecking your car ? ... cheaper to insure ? My Scat isn’t that bad for full coverage .... but isn’t Hagarty really cheap for classics ?

Oooops .....

D23 .... thx for your efforts here .... good input .., gotta go help a neighbor- I’ll BBL

Guess if that oil meets the spec use it. Hagerty is real cheap for the challenger, $397 a year, zero deductible
sbird is about $500 just for storage after the multi car discount, to drive it is about $1200, value is the problem on a sbird.

That oil spec ? .... does anyone know WHY the 6.4 is diff from the 5.7 ?

I don’t mind paying TWICE THE MONEY of regular oil for this OBVIOUSLY way higher tech motor than I’ve ever had .... but WHY is it necessary? The MDS ? ... the cam, lifters ... special needs in piston cooling ??

It probably isn't any different. Most oils available to consumers meet or exceed mfg's requirements BUT if the mfg demands a particular spec that is no better than the regular stuff, the oil company still has to perform those tests on their products to verify it does in fact meet the spec before they can print it on the bottle. This costs $$$ and a lot of companies crunch the numbers and discover there aren't enough go fast 6.4 oil changes to be had to justify the cost of certification.

This makes finding the correct oil to do your oil change with, a complete pain in the a$$ and drives you back to the dealer who surprise surprise has boat loads of it in stock. Add in the threat of warranty issues should something go boom and you just begrudgingly pay the ransom to the dealer who doesn't care if your happy, only that you paid.

In short, it's a racket.

Kevin

Sears guy ..... a racket ? a game ? Is that what happy to Mobil 1 and their 0-40 ?

Probably.

Kevin

Happy to Mobil 1 .... lol... stupid speal chuck sometimes

HAPPENED to Mobil 1 !

But FCA can’t get by calling it a game ... there has to some type of reasoning behind it !

A bit more zinc for the cam and lifters ?

What about the quality of the complete oiling system is most important for the MDS ?

Here is FCA's oil recommendation for the Hellcats. The issue that plagues the Hellcat guys is that FCA Material Standard MS-12633. Apparently MS-12633 is FCA's own spec, not an industry spec. And apparently the PUP is the only oil that has been tested by or for FCA to meet that particular spec. We can all guess just why that is. All of the other oil specifications are readily available in several different oils from different manufacturers. Does your owner's manual list the same spec for your engine?


Engine Oil Selection
For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends full synthetic engine oils that meet the American Petroleum Institute (API) categories of SN.

The manufacturer recommends the use of a full synthetic SAE 0W-40 engine oil or equivalent meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-12633.

Engine Oil Viscosity
Use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 engine or equivalent Mopar oil meeting the FCA Material Standard MS-12633 for use in all operating temperatures.

The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended engine oil viscosity for your engine. For information on engine oil filler cap location, refer to “Engine Compartment” in this section for further information.

Synthetic Engine Oils
You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed.

Synthetic engine oils which do not have both the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number should not be used.

d23 .... but supposedly that Valvoline has that 12633 spec.

BUTTT some of the words that are used in your post IS interesting..,,..

All about oils .... recommended.... required .... should not be used .... ALL diff meaning !!!

I’ll BBL ... gotta go to Tampa then Orlando

This.

So, you're recommending 0w20 in an engine still under factory warranty that specifies 0w40?

I would hesitate to go that much thinner than the factory recommendation even if it weren't under warranty. But I certainly would not do it while the warranty was in affect.

d3 .... I agree .... I’m not going to argue THE FACT that FCA requires a 12633 spec oil ... and that oil is only 0-40.

But NOT PUP ... I’ll use Valvoline!

STILL like to hear basic reasoning behind that need for the new spec.

AGAIN - no argument from me to the CTC boyz

7 qts of oil and the correct filter was $70 today at the selling dealer, $13.50 labor to change the oil. When they found out she bought the car there with lifetime warranty, it was free. Nice surprise.

A dealer guarantee DEAL like this ? I looked at a car AT this listed dealer about 8 months ago ..... and there was NOTHING FREE about ANYTHING they did ! And to have that GUARANTEE in effect ... you had to have ALL your service work done by them ! At this Tampa dealer way inflated rates and with a ton of fine print.

CONGRATS if you got a Scatty oil change free .... but I’ll bet GIVING THAT AWAY was an error on their part

No error, this dealer does it for all new car purchases from their lot they said. We were not expecting it for free.