14x32 M/T Pro Bracket Radial

I would like to switch from 14x32 slicks to the M/T pro bracket radial 14x32. Wondering if anybody had any experience with the swap?

All I can say is when my buddy first put them on he had some learning to do in his low 9 second car. I heard him spin from the staging lanes like he was on water. He has since lost .20 in the 1/4 mile. (Gone faster) Another buddy had handling issues with the same tire in his 8 second Pontiac. Pretty sure he is still running them now too. Everyone I know that has switched from a slick to a radial has picked up a lot but so far I’m sticking with a 14-32 M/T slick.

interesting...My car runs 9.0s..leaving on the brake at 5500 and 7300 stall..so I'm hitting the tire pretty hard

like most who swap . There will be a learning period as shock adjustment is quite different plus of course different psi requirements .
I can only speak for the smaller versions , 28 and 29.5( actual 30") . I leave @ 4500 , 6000 stall . but likely am heavier than you .
Very consistent , rare to more than scrabble the tyre and I do not run radial prepped tracks , I bracket race .
Good luck if you go there .

Tex

I know one other thing. My son has the 10-28 on his Duster and I think he checks tire pressure once a day and no longer uses a line lock to heat his tires.

Ok

I can see that working on my wagon I basically just clean off the tires and thats it

I wanted to do the switch from my Good year 2078's that I have ran pretty much exclusively since 2003 and did a lot of searching on the net for success stories, most are not as most gave up and went back to bias with big tires. But still I persisted and ordered a set from one of the big retailers, that set came and were 2.5 years old, everybody said send them back and I researched even M/T said there life is 4 years from manufacture, I emailed said big retailer ans told them of this and please send a set 1 year old or less and second set was 2.5 years old as well so they went back and about this time I talked to a few others that had bad experiences with them. So now when we can race again I am going to order up a new set of M/T 2074's bias. Most people don't understand that they are made to dead hook , not wrinkle, ect. and some that have ran them told me they can be hard on drive line components since no give. I really like the idea of no tubes and rim screws but with running two cars just don't have the time to test anymore. I have ran the little 30x9x15 Hoosier radials on my '68 road runner for 12+ years and they work great but for what ever reason it seems not a lot of success stories with the 32x14x15 radials. Good luck would like to hear your feedback if you change.

thank for your input..i'm still on the fence about ordering a set. I have ran goodyears and hosiers both with good results..I hear radials are quicker which is good but I bracket race and need consistency..Im hitting the tire hard. 2775 lbs. leaving at 6000 and 7300 stall. back of car is 52 percent of weight

I ran M/T ET Street radials and the same size ET Street bias ply on my old Duster on the street and at the track. The radials are faster (.1+ and 1.5+ MPH) and quicker on a good track but suck on bad surfaces, once the radials started to spin I had to let off or almost loose control do to the back of the car drifting to the left
The bias ply might turn, spin, a 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn and then hook and stay hooked, not so on the radials
The radials are heavier but they do hook better and roll easier on a good track

Sounds like 2 sets of tires are needed. If the radials don't hook than switch to the bias and save the day!

Pro Bracket Radials are NOT the same as any other type of Radial slick, people continue to compare them and they don't compare. They don't need a radial prep'ed track, they work great on standard prep tracks whether that be a sanctioned track or an outlaw track. They were built and designed for the typical bracket racer, not the NHRA event prep'ed tracks.

I've been running on them on my wife's '68 Barracuda for 4 years now and they work fantastic. They last for ever, much more stable going down the track and pick up your 60' times and mph. Doing nothing but switching to them picked up the wheelies by about 3". They are the 28x10.5s.

My car has been on jack stands for the past 4 years while I've been focused on Jr Dragster racing with my daughter but I'm finally putting my KB/B1 motor together and planning to get back to the track this year. I'm planning to go to the 14x32 PBRs. I've spoken to the MT techs with the trailers at the NHRA events and they do say that if you have a light car, like an S-10 or a chassis car, they have had some issues because they don't weight transfer as well but your typical bracket car they work great, so I'm looking forward to running them.

How well do these tires hold air?

My 28x10.5s hold air great. I've got 4 weeks and they may have only lost 1 pound.

I was planning to run 14x32 PBRs on my '71 Cuda but before I ordered them I spoke to one of the MT techs that bring the semi to the NHRA events and he recommended I stay with the standard bias ply stiff side wall slicks to I'm taking his advise and staying with the 3074S 14x32 stiff sidewall slicks.

But I will keep running the PBRs on my wife's '68 because they've worked so great over the past 5 or so years.

I have some 28x10.50s and they hold air as good as any daily driver tire. Mine haven't been on the car in 18 months and are still inflated.

...my season is short but put mine on last fall (14x32 pbrs 3200lb backhalf car,maybe a dozen hits in total)and still don't have mine sorted..
it duck walks unless i drop pressure to 14 then it feels like they're wadding up?...getting frustrated i think im just going to put the slicks back on

I tried a set of MT drag radial slicks size 14.5 x 33 x15 back in 2004 . i ran into a problem others tagged as "radial rock". The car would twist back and forth like a gorrilla was pushing sideways on the front and back of the car. I wound up having to lift on half of the passes because it was so bad i thought i would lose control. The car would not settle down till i lifted. People asked me why i didn't lift on a couple of runs, one of which was the fastest the car ever went. Nobody has ever come up with why this happens, or at least haven't shared the info.

...thank you! No seems to know anyhting about this


...so i phoned M/T (should have done first) says to start at 12lbs and go up from there

I have a couple friends that run the big radial but I also know they had some learning to do. I would love the free seat gains the radials offer but I’ve been holding off too. I have my chassis set where I need just a puff of smoke off my slicks and it will go
1.25-1.28 sixty foots and get long wear from my slicks.

Back when i ran them they needed a very well prepped track and 12 psi to work. If they spun the 60 ft went from 1.27 to 1.34 instantly. I had 50/50 WEIGHT DIST at that time. They don't play well with a high SLR like 11.17 that i had, 4.56x2.45 low.

...interesting. Just put 5.13's in over the winter, i have a th400 with stock ratios but have a griner second gear leave, will try that,

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3u6chzpk5bivh4u/IMG_0447.mov?dl=0

The SsHA hemi guys use a reduced ratio low. Like 2.1? The th400 might be a bit too much, like 1.54?