SS Springs and shock extension

67 Plymouth.

Currently running SS Springs snubber and MP drag shocks - The shock full extension is listed as 27.5”.

Id like to change to an adjustable shock - but most only offer around 24” total extension

Question - do I need the extension that the MP shock offers, or will I be OK with 9 way Calverts to obtain the dynamic lift required to plant the tires?

What is the shock length when it is sitting? How much body separation are you getting on launch? Some SS spring cars hit pretty hard and get a ton of rise- the answer will be specific to your car. 9 way Calverts are 9 way Ranchos which are an off road shock- you can probably get some pretty long stuff.

It is not recommended to use a pinion snubber with SS springs, it defeats the purpose & action of the SS springs.

I’d heard this but I can’t see how?

The SS Spring’s shorter segment reduces pinion wrap - so a snubber may not work as well as with full segment springs....but I cant see how a snubber prevents the SS spring from working?

Unsure on separation atm - however the shock is at about 20” extension when standing.

even the old Direct connection bible said no snubber, it is like using ladder Bars with leaf springs without the housing sliders, binding,,, Ron 383man on here has a 10.70 street car, SS springs only. car HOOKS

You can't see what doesn't work, take the snubber off at the track after several runs and see if your car slows down or speeds up
Do you think the old(pre 1980) Mopar factory engineers would lie to us users about this
They didn't and wouldn't.
I had tried that test before hearing about it at one of their drag race seminars in 1975 or 1976, the snubbers don't help with SS springs, remove it and lose some weight
Then try adding clamps onto the front half of the SS springs every where you can above every leaf spring segments where it hooks to the main leaf Can you say wheelie

You can't see what doesn't work, take the snubber off at the track after several runs and see if your car slows down or speeds up
Do you think the old(pre 1980) Mopar factory engineers would lie to us users about this
They didn't and wouldn't.
I had tried that test before hearing about it at one of their drag race seminars in 1975 or 1976, the snubbers don't help with SS springs, remove it and lose some weight
Then try adding clamps onto the front half of the SS springs every where you can above every leaf spring segments where it hooks to the main leaf Can you say wheelie [/q
The supper stock spring is violent and using a snubber only makes it worse and you cant put enough shock into it to control it. That is why it is not recommended to use together

I hate to bud in, my experience with SS springs/Snubbers/SS spring extention brackets as videoed using a GoPro camera with 2 set-ups underneath the car, the first facing the front of the pinion & body along with veiwing the front part of the leaf spring action & the 2nd veiwing the back side of the axle housing rotational action & the separation of each rear leaf spring, is that the snubber is useless, throw it out it does nothing, the body rises and the snubber just misses the point of impact, without the body rise the snubber would hit, in fact I got rid of this whole set-up & went back with the factory spring hanger, factory measurement from the leaf spring hanger to center of the axle with cal-tracs & Viking shocks, I now hook up lift the front wheels & have complete control of my suspension on most track conditions, this is also veiwed using the same GoPro set-up. If you plan on driving street & occasional drag racing at the track & if you like having SS springs for coolness of saying so, stick with them, SS spring extensions are defeting the purpose of effective use of the SS springs because it moves your body lift point back 1" from where the bracket mounts to the body, like a tetter totter off center, there is a certain point on the vehcile where it become effective.

How can a snubber have any effect (i.e. hit the pad on the floorpan) when the housing is thrown out of the car on the hit? Would a good shock that does a better job of controlling the housing be a better option than a very long shock that won't top out?

For what its worth Its not a case of ‘not believing’ Mopars recommendations...its more a case of wanting to understand the physics at play.

The term I queried was ‘defeats the purpose’....I think ‘surplus to needs’ might have been closer to the reality, anyhoo.....its semantics...I just got confused

After more reading I now understand the stiff front segment allows the rear segment to flex and plant the tyres...and that its unlikely the snubber will even contact the pan....so I get how they work now.

I guess the MP 27” extension shocks were old school tech, probably designed to be used with factory springs and a snubber .

The point about using a modern shock to control the housing is a good one.

Thx for the input.

Remove your shocks and jack up the car by the frame, axle hanging at full extension, then measure from top shock mount to axle shock mount, ad .5" to 1" that's the length you need.

You could find something in the Rancho catalogue Mal that fits your requirements. Not sure if it is still the case, but the Calvert stuff was re-stickered Rancho shocks I believe.

Check with Viking, they offer most any length of shock needed, down load there PDF catolog, you get what you pay for.

Thx for the tip!

Call em and get what you need. Great people to deal with.
FWIW...back when I ran SS springs, the car 60 footed .03 quicker when I took the snubber OFF. Was running mid 11s w/ the 3400 lb springs on a 3700 lb car. Same day back to back test.

The rear shackle static angle can and does affect the rear end hopping under hard acceleration
If yours is near the stock angle move the upper hole center forward 1.5 to 3.0 inches so it increases the shackle angle some more