Driven GP-1 oil

OMG, another oil thread, yep. I have been looking for a good oil to replace the 15/50 Amsoil I have been using because according to the oil grade/bearing clearance guide I should be using a 10/40 or 15/40 group oil. Amsoil does not offer this group in a racing/flat tappet oil. They did tell me I could use their 10/30 no problem, but i'm uncomfortable with that. My clearances are .029/.033. I just found this GP-1 that is offered in a 15/40 group. They claim in a 383 small block chevy 5hp gain and cooler temps just by changing oil. Either way looks like a good enough oil. Anyone here ever use this stuff? They have my interests.

Been running oil thinner than the "experts" say to do forever and zero issues w/similar clearances as you.........

Looks like Driven has jumped on the Brad Penn PA crude oil bandwagon.

10w30 Amsoil race oil with clearances as big as yours. Can't be squeamish about oil pressure and you need to pay attention to internal oil leaks and excess oil going places other than the crank.

I even tried some 0w30. Oil pressure was too low.

I think tightening up the clearances a half or 3/4 a thou or so and using 10w30 on a bracket style deal is about right.

What grade oil do you use Dom?

I read that and was kind of surprised. Same base stock, so the Driven has better additives? Never seen Brad Penn make these claims.

I think I would have good piece of mind with the 40 grade vs the 30. How much do you think would be gained going from 50 to 30 grade oil. Would really like to know hp differences between the 2. Current oil pressures are 80 cold, 30 hot at idle and 65 hot WOT.

You should look for oils that DON'T advertise and spend all their time doing articles for webzines and any other place they can get some advertising time.

If you are buying a synthetic and not paying 20 bucks a quart you are wasting your time. The simple fact is quality oil is expensive. And the companies doing it budget very little for advertisement.

Depends but usually Valvoline crude or sync but recently went with Royal Purple 10w30 just because.....

Ok, I have used RP in the past. Never had an engine failure because of oil brand, but there was a post last year about Brad Penn not lubing rocker shafts and piston pins well. A box of Penn grade 1 is $80, Amsoil $150 and Driven GP $105 , valvoline vr1 $100 to my door. I really would like to give the Driven a second try. Was just curious to what others had to say about the Driven oil good or bad.

Since my car sits and only gets fired up once in a while I was thinking of going back to Rotella 15-40. It will be due for an oil change this spring. Currently has Brad Penn in it.

With going to a thinner oil do you think about changing the filter to a smaller micron filtering?

Never gave that a thought. I use the Moroso oil filter.

How bad is the gunk in the pan the last time you looked?

I haven't had the pan off since I built it. The oil came out fairly clean and the last couple oil filters were the cleanest I have ever seen.

Try what you are comfortable with trying and see how it effects the pressure especially at the high rpms.
There's a good chance that idle psi drops a little and high rpm pressure increases going to a 15W-40. (when compared with 15W-50 at the same oil temperature)
If so, then next change you can try 10W-30 if you want.
But if the high rpm pressure drops then of course you don't want to go thinner.

I use regular, not synthetic, Valvoline 5W20WT in my hot street motors, VR1 10w30Wt in my E85 bracket motor.
I like to see at least .0030 on the rods and .0035+ bearing clearances on the mains
I've never seen or heard of a rod bearing or main bearing spinning because of to much oil clearances, I have seen that happen with them to tight though

Only 3 this time ? .. you get TWO credits !

That's a good idea and i'll follow that and Cab, my next motor will get .003" plus on all bearings. Thanks

The stock eliminator class finds gains by going to a 0 wt oil with a class match racing and switch back to their regular wt oil for the next round. Unless you are running all out and need every .01 what's the real gain. Once the motor is warm and the oil viscosity has been established, same goes for gear oil, its all about running the # on the windshield and getting as many passes from the motor as possible. Your typical road race car runs 20-50. That's a hell of a lot of engine abuse than any drag motor. That rumor about brad Penn, when the company was sold, they changed packaging and many racers bought the street oil instead of the race oil. Have had no problems with SB or BB builds Everything I race is between 12.50 and 9.90.. In the world of snake oils, oil brands/claims are worse than politics.

I ran the Joe Gibbs Driven 10w40 in my 10 second pump gas Duster, no problems. I'm running Lucas 20w50 oil in my Hemi now just because Summit had a good deal on it.

That was my thinking too, usually what ya want to spend at the time and I figured the Driven GP-1 is about the same price as most other racing oils, guess i'll give it a shot. I only race the clock, so if there's any gain there then that's a plus.

And not very much of it either with low drag, low pressure, low volume oil pumps!