Indy 360-1 Roller Rockers

Hey guys I need some help and advice . Bought a set of 360.1s from a member here with little run time on them. Put the heads on with new springs and retainers . Made a few great passes and they done good. Fast forward to today. Nice day decided to take the car on a little warm up drive around the block. Heard a heck of a noise and coasted back home. Exhaust rocker broke into at the shaft area. Is this a problem with the blue Indy Rockers ? I called Indy and they said call them back Monday to see if they had any left in stock . Discontinued .. Options ? , advice . Thanks..

They’re decent for a solid lifter or mild solid roller.

Thanks , I have never broke a rocker before. My cam is a solid roller but not huge. 6.52 lift.
Scared the mess out of me..

From what I recall, the 360-1 rockers are the same as the 440-1 rockers.
Different spacers and shafts.
The exhaust rockers are the same as the intake/exhaust rockers for stock or SR heads.

If Indy doesn’t have any, I’d think with some hunting you could find some used spares....... but I’d look at that broken one as a sign of things to come.

That sign of things to come bothers me , LOL Are they prone to breaking ?

Why do you think Indy doesn’t carry them anymore?

Who carries a dependable set then ??

The easiest to get “good” rockers will probably be T&D.

Hughes might offer something for those heads...... just check their site.

I'd say step one is correct your geometry. I'd bet good money the geometry is off.

Fix that first. That rocker should live forever for what you're doing.

b3racingengines.com

Look up his site and read the tech articles. Then order the kit.

Been there, done that. Just change to T&Ds now and save yourself some frustration.

Indy house brand rockers where Dove is what I've been told on here by a lot of members
As mentioned if one died, fail, look for more to do the same soon

I have a full set of black 1.5's that have never been used with a roller cam. If you're interested in the set let me know.

I have a set of TD for sale never used.

If these are prone to fail then I def want to change them.. Could you guys send me the info on your rockers and price ?? Thanks so much..

ok
Yes they can be prone to breakage when used with roller cams. Typically when one goes there tend to be more afterwards. Yes they were made by Dove but they went our of business or were bought out. Those are a 1.6 ratio if they are blue and 1.5 if they are black. They are the same as the big block rockers so you need to know if you need a left offset or a right offset. (which side is the adjuster on). I should have some spares if you want just one. IF you are running a roller I would invest in some better rockers, Harlands or T/d would be your best bet.
They were made from an extruded aluminum and for sure have a cycle life like most aluminum parts.

Todd

Hey Todd I was was going to try to call you today to see if you had some in stock. I really need to make sure everything else is okay on the engine so I would like to get a spare to make a set anyway. Dude at Indy said it was the exhaust left rocker. That confused the heck out of me as all of the exhaust rockers look the same to me ?? You going to be open today ?

The indy rockers made by Dove haven't been available for some time.As mentioned, if you broke one, that is your first and last warning there are more to come. I know this very well unfortunately. Spring pressure at and over 650#s speeds the failure rate up fast. Run away from them an invest in some good rockers. Speak with B3 racing and get the rocker geometry squared away and race on with confidence. Good luck.

Guys here found a cracked one on their SR headed wedge, only running a very mild solid roller, changed to HS rockers.

Just asking again because it matters. Have you corrected your geometry or at least considered it may not be correct?

I'm not saying you shouldn't change your rockers out. What I'm saying is is the geometry right. You can fail many quality rockers if the geometry is wrong, and 99% of the time it's anywhere from marginal to straight wrong.

I did a low deck with 440-1 heads and I was doing a mock up with the springs I was going to use and broker a rocker turning it over, by hand. I looked the rest of them over and I couldn't see a fracture on any of them, and the fractured one looked like a clean break.

I ordered a new rocker from Indy and asked him how can I be using his heads, valves, his rockers, his installed height numbers and the geometry suck so bad.

Russ told me either I had something wrong or I was stupid. So I corrected the geometry, it went to the dyno, made 770 HP and went in the car and ran for three seasons until that customer died.


Just putting this out here, because it needs to be said.

I appreciate your input on the geometry and agree 100% with it. I run through the way the rockers were riding on the valve stem all the way through the range of motion. Very close to perfect all the way through I did find that the pushrod end was really close to the rocker arm by design. No contact but very close. I am no wizzard with these rockers and the Indy heads but I think the geometry is good. Thanks for your input again.. always helps to have a different opinion..

I will tell you what , Todd at Marsh Performance is one of the most stand up guys out there. I talked with him today while he was building an engine and he stopped what he was doing to shoot the breeze with me. Told me to call him Monday and he would get me straight with the parts I need to fix these rockers. I will make sure the car is still running okay and then most likely get with a nice member here about getting his TD rockers for the real fix.. Thanks again for all the advice guys..

I've used a bunch of different single shaft aluminum roller rocker arm set up's including T&D and Harland Sharps. I've seen a small variance in the net lift on both the H.S. and T&D, I prefer the H.S. as they will custom make the exact ratio you want if your willing to wait a week or two
I just finish dealing with a issue on a set of T&D single shaft that where suppose to be 1.65 ratio that ended up being 1.76 or so on a set of 440-1 heads That really messes with the coil bind when setting up the valve springs based on net lift
Luckily I ended up checking the net lift at the retainer and discover that issue before delivering the motor to my customer, it was a pain in the butt to fix it on the engine also
I will buy H.S. before I buy another set of T&D single shaft sytem

Running lash too loose/ weak springs will contribute/accelerate the life of those rockers. Valve bounce/float is very hard on rockers.

Single shaft high ratio rockers will always have the pushrod cup/ball closer to the shaft CL (unless the shaft is moved over) because that's where the ratio change comes from: there's no way to increase the length of the long (valve side) lever w/o pushing the roller over to the far end of the stem tip.

Are you checking the ratio with checking springs or the springs you will use?

I did both on that motor, less than .005 differences at the retainers
Manton series five 3/8x .142 wall pushrods

Never mind

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...e=partnumber&page=3&partid=34443


Hughes has 1.5 and 1.6's. Ive never used them, but Id bet they are just as good if not better than the Dove ones.

I've used the Hughes Cyro treated 1.6 rockers for the Eddy Victor M.W heads on a roller cam 400 block bracket race motor and ended up putting a set of Harland Sharp on that motor after two failures with the Hughes parts
No more rocker troubles after that