BRACKET COMBOS/BRACKET TIMES

Spent some time racing a slant 6. Very interesting viewpoint being chased.What's a best time/best combo for bracket racing?

Mine is probably one of the dumbest. Nose heavy, around 900hp,10.5" tire, footbrake. That being said its a lot of fun. I'm almost always chasing. Dial around 5.8x/9.1x,or 9.25 index. 18 finals in just over 100 events.
Doug

Best situation i ever had; stroked 440 on alky, hydraulic cam, over 50 percent on the back, 14x32 &cage ran 10.20s

For what purpose? Going slow or fast?
BTW, the driver does have some input on the cars results
AKA aside I think I do better when I get to leave first, I've never bracket raced a car slower than mid 12. seconds in the 1/4 mile, my current S/P car run high 8s at 15.0 MPH in the 1/4, mile 5.50 at 120 MPH in the 1/8 mile

15.30's for the V/SA /6 and 8.90-9.20's with an Altered and a MP car back in the 70's. I was giving thought to a big torque 360 or a lower revving 440 to have plenty of TQ to power my way thru just in case of a slight glitch. With a lower ET, somewhere in the 12s' and plenty of TQ, there should be some wiggle when playing the stripe with faster cars. Yes/NO?

a mate I race with has this idea . Runs around 12 flat but @ 115/117mph or so . This is in a LS3 chev powered Holden ute . His idea is get a lot of tree and not be overrun in the top end . Except for guys like me @ near 130 , but it will be close to stripe where I pick him up , so less room for me to back up . He also races a high 11s VW , bit quicker but a few less mph . He cant lift with the VW
I have to say it is a plan than can work

Tex

I have raced slow cars most of my career. Leaving first gives the other guy lots of time to lose the tree, but if I hang a red it's moot.

My Slant now runs low 13s most of the time, but I moved into Pro so I'm still being chased.

My experience is if I cut a good light and run my number it doesn't matter if I'm first or last.

I do know that when I was running a 19 second car in Gambler's races fast guys hated me.

My saying is Small Blocks rule the world.......

I say that because in most bracket classes, the small block comes out on top....Why, simple....Lower HP, less breakage, less tire slippage on marginal track, gives you more seat time.

A hydraulic cammed small block with a decent slick and good suspension is really tough to beat...Especially if they are allowed a trans brake and two step.

I know good bracket racers that hold a lot more than I do and I know other guys the will dial what it ran the last run or even add,001 to ,002 faster I like racing all of them, I do hold from .01 to .03 usually, I can always loose ET, but I can't gain any ET normally also
You have to drive both ends of the track better than your opponent to win in bracket racing, correct

our dart was set up to fright train on the top end , fooled a few people couple of the best were 11 sec cars running the same mph,,,,,2.00-2.10 60ft 8.60 in the 1/8th 13.30s@107-110 mph

Well were going to step things up next year form going 12.6's@105+ with a near stock 440 to lowish 10's@130+, with a mild 588. I reckon that'll give us better parity with the 60's and mph with the other cars that run in our brkt, most of who are in the high 9's so the battle will be more@the top end and not lost@the start especially if our RT is a bit weak against our op. Chasing someone down near the line to take the stripe invariably ends up with a breakout unless you pass them early and that shouldn't happen to us too often except for 1 car that runs 9.0's@150 which is the cut off ET for the class, but he breaks out a lot as it is with 8.90's. There can be 1>2tnths change in conditions@SPR from day to late afternoons/evenings, other racers don't follow things like that too much so we got a good chance in going rounds if we are on the ball.

My Satellite uses a simple flat tappet, pump gas 400/451. It typically runs in the high 11.20’s or low 30’s at 118 and is still a perfectly suitable weekend street hot rod. I footbrake it, as it does not have a transbrake. It runs an 8-3/4 with 4.10’s on a spool.

I’m the slower car roughly 60% - 70% of the time at my local track in Pro E/T.

I think you can bracket race anything. You got to cut a light, know your vehicle and run your own race. Knowing your car comes from experience and not changing the combo in an effort to go quicker (like I do ) If you're serious about it keeping data is key. The best bracket racers run the same combo year in year out and leaving last gives you the first foul advantage.

No more 1st foul advantage at any track using True-Start. You certainly can Bracket just about anything that runs well, My opinion is that there will be an advantage to being the faster car. A) It’s much easier to judge the race when it’s all in front of you; and B) the faster car has more options once the cars are even at the big end. With that said, the biggest advantage will always lie with the guy that left on time and is on his number.

I agree wholeheartedly here with this guy. The problem I have is sticking with the same car, always want to go faster. Not sure if Tru-Start will catch on, but I don’t mind it. Been doing the Spring Fling thing for a few years and have seen Tru-start do some amazing things. Jim.

Ahh forgot about that but it's not something that's been adopted in the UK (yet)

driver is as good as the car,you need to cut a light and do it every pass,foot brake or box,best car in the world is nothing without a driver,seems like all that wins in my area is chevy owners,fast or slow,i dont want to bracket race anymore,for being known as a duck