Aluminum or Copper fuel line ?

Trying to plan the fuel system. The pump has 3/8 NPT fittings which have a hose barb that is 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID.

So I'd like a minimum of 3/8 ID everywhere. I really don't want to use a lot of rubber line. Also, I don't know what NHRA likes,
(although that's not the biggest concern).

There is 1/2" OD aluminum line and there is 1/2" OD copper line, these should be 3/8 ID but I cannot seem to verify that.

Has anyone used either hard line without any problems ? Or what kind of problems did you have ? One problem I could see
would be corrosion with any alcohol in the fuel.

I used Nicopp line (nickel-copper) which is available at several locations but not so much in 3/8". I found that diameter at Advance Auto Parts.

- EM

Both will work harden (eventually break from flexing and vibration), but aluminum sooner, copper is also easier to repair (solder) rather than make a new one.
I use Adel clips ("P" clamp with a rubber insert to protect the line against chafing and chassis vibration), and add a vibration loop midway in a long line.

FWIW, I've have 1/2" aluminum hardline on a few cars; one I did 34 years ago, another 25 years ago.
Both are still just fine, never a problem or a leak.
Support (adel clamps as noted, one car has a few tie-wraps along its subframe tie) them so they can't vibrate or flex.
I prefer to use fire sleeve over the aluminum, but haven't always (did a couple vintage T/A racecars as well, now that I think of it).
Use hose at both ends to connect to pump/engine, 6" is enough.
Check your AN fittings to be sure they're not significantly smaller ID (some are), and use a larger-ID regulator.

Both aluminum and copper come in hard drawn and soft drawn tubing, both types of the hard drawn are a bear to work with
I've used both on race cars with no problems other than wearing a hole in the first car I used the soft drawn copper due to me sliding and tying down the ramps under the car without making sure they weren't rubbing on anything

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...51/re-check-your-fuel-lines-brand-x.html

So I am the only one that runs annealed SS hardline?
Ni/Copper would be my only other candidate for fuel line..
Alum is not very robust, and any nearby fire will quickly show how little it matters how one mounted it.

JCC, Where do you get annealed SS line ? I'd love to see what sizes are available.

OK, I just read about aluminum line, so that is out.
Either copper/nickel or stainless, I would prefer stainless.

Understand, IMO, SS is NOT the easiest to work with, even annealed, but I believe its the best, its robust, its the most fire resistant, its pricey, and it looks great.

Summit?

Just removed my 30yr old aluminum line in favor of braided Teflon line. Also ditched all the rubber braided from the fuel cell to the pump.

I always use either braided SS line or the black cloth style braided line w/ AN fittings. Easiest and best looking IMO.

I’ve used the earls brand 1/2” aluminum tubing for my car. But next time I will use the stainless

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-681696erl/

I've also used the Summit brand of steel fuel lines with a tubing bender, it was oaky to work with
You will need to be real careful on the short 90 degree bends going around the rear sub frame if your going to copy the original route

Save a few bucks with aluminum tubing, and you can use nuts and sleeves and flare it to add AN hoses for flex connections - but it's a PIA to work with, make fit, keep from kinking and I don't think it's as safe as a stainless braided or even legal fire resistant hose. Haven't used that stuff for years, Couple of rolls of it here collecting dust.

Street car? Maybe do up a steel line to replace'upgrade the original stuff, but not the aluminum.

As many have said, Nickel Copper tubing.

I only use SS for fuel and brake lines

anyone use the eastwood [or equivalent] hydraulic flairing tool on stainless tubing ?
if so, how well did it work ?
also, did it take multiple tightening sequences to get the tubing from seeping, like other flaring methods do for a complete seal ?
TIA as always.

Most of the long run front to back on my car is 1/2" aluminum (summit brand). 100% E85 all the time for 7 years without an issue.

Just make sure it's secured every 12" or so to keep it from vibrating, and tuck it up high enough so it's protected.

After a few lousy attempts with the cheapo flaring tools on SS, I bought the $200+? hydraulic flare tool kit, and although still a tough task, that is the only way IMO to flare SS.

My son just bought that kind of flaring kit as he did not like my older double flare tool I have had for years. But boy that hydraulic one works awesome ! Ron