WHAT STARTER ?

Ive seen these threads before...BUT I have a Mopar Mini already. WHat I have is a 13.7 comp and a 12v battery. Now its starting to kick back, backfire etc. Not good. Im making the switch to a litium 16v. Next step is a better starter ? WHat brand ?

Change to a 16 v ..

Or, I run two big 12 volt batteries from Napa .. the really big ones

I have a Powermaster on the Stratus with a 16V Lithium Pros battery and no issues and this engine is fairly difficult to turn over by hand as it has 60MM Babbit gearings and a fair amount of spring. The dragster has an XS 16V with a Mopar mini starter with zero issues, I did purchase a Powermaster for it as well but so far zero issues with the Mopar mini

If you are already running two 12 volt batteries skip the 16 volt deal. Buy a series parallel switch and run the starter off 24 volts. With that switch, only the starter gets 24 volts and everything else always gets 12 volts.

Much better way to do it than going to 16 volt stuff.

My Lithium battery weighs just over 9lbs, the XS in the dragster weighs 30lbs. Both way better options that 90 plus pounds of battery in the car..

Tuneup? Have you tried killing the ignition until the starter gets up to speed?

YES, still turns over slow. The battery is almost three years old. And its only one group 24 12volt

Man you guys have lots of starter issues.

it starts ok, just looking to get rid of the occasional kickback. And im switching to 16V anyway...so that may actually be it. THis 12v is getting old and im sure the alternator I use is not covering the amp draw.

I ran a supplementary -ve cable from the batteries to the starter, wow what a difference.

RobbMC builds an excellent starter, truly clocks in any position. Well worth the money.

https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/mopar_starter.html

I run the Mopar mini at 15-1. Cold; If you pump the throttle a few times and let it set 30 seconds, one more pump and it fires in one revolution. Hot; one pump 10-15 seconds, same result. Waiting is key.
Doug

ITS FUNNY you mention that. I have a digital water temp gauge. Ive been doing two pumps under 90*, one pump over 90*. Never waited. And yea I think I need more fuel in the engine because a kick back is really just a lean pop ?

I've had issues on staring similar to yours but I think it is ignition box and or grounding issues, not low amperage from the batteries
I'm going to do some rewiring this winter along with taking another MSD7AL2 box and a MSD digital non programmable box and another MSD transformer coil and two of the early red coils for the 7AL2 race boxes and see if I can figure out exactly where my car starting problems are
I'll post the results and my thought on what caused what when I'm done

My slow start is not the battery or starter solonoid. I will replace my 10 year old mopar mini with another. 9:1 static CR.

On the stock car it would get cranky when hot. I started cranking it THEN switching on the ign while cranking & that took care of it. Ground your coil wire & try it & see if that takes care of it

Be sure to run an equal size grounding cable to match your 12V+ cable in every location, especially from battery to starter, to ignition and to both heads. Also, as mentioned a few times above, using an ignition 12v+ cut-off switch to allow the motor to start cranking at full speed before flipping the switch to light it works nicely.

As to your posted question, I have an MSD starter in one of my vehicles. It turned out to be overkill, because once I updated my grounds, even an old junkyard starter cranked my stuff over really well.

Local parts store vs. Power Master:

Untitled by Greg Ault, on Flickr

Can you explain what coil wire do you ground?

I run a RobbMC starter , I cranks the 572 Hemi with no problem. What I have found is that a lot of guys use the body/frame as a ground . I did years ago and had slow cranking like the batteries were not up to the task. I ran a #2 cable from the trunk mounted battery ground post to the starter/ bell housing bolt. What a difference it made, engine cranked over like a new car.

the large coil to dist wire, I hold the dist end 1/4" from the intake or similar ground & have someone crank it. pulling the ECU pentastar connector will do the same thing, then crank it EDIT seperating the dist pickup zigzag connector would be the easiest & no helper needed if seperating one of these connectors

I use a switch on the 12V+ wire to disable the ignition. Not on the ground wire. I actually have 2 switches on the same circuit, but one is hidden.