Removing 1 3/4 hooker super comp headers,360 bbody?

ok got my 1 3/4 hooker super comp headers loose,ie bolts are all out, car is jacked up,66 bbody, do they come out the top or bottom? do i have to remove the starter&90 degree oil filter adapter also? when we installed them in 2013 there were 3 of us, now just me. on my slab ....help...i cant remember...

I knew a guy with a '68 'Cuda and he would drop the steering and pull the column. I think. Maybe one of the torsion bars, too? What a hassle.

a body is tighter than a b i think, we installed them with tbars and collumn in, easier with 3 guys, just by myself now...fighting health issues so time on the creeper wrenching is limited. sucks to get old

not the same headers but...with some doug's headers and a 360 in a 67 b-body, driver side i removed the starter, jacked the motor up a little and maybe removed the steering center link. i think i went in from the bottom. bolted the starter back up with the header kinda hanging in there..
pass side, i think i just removed the oil filter and loosened the 90* oil filter adapter and rotated it, might've slid in from the top on that side.

ok thanks! these have a super long collector ,may have to jack it up even more...

I think the drag link has to be out. I had both motor mounts loose and would jack the engine up on one side to roll it out of the way. Usually go in and out from the bottom. Last set I did the entire suspension was out but I still had to roll the engine.

I recently extracted some Headman 1 5/8 and installed Hooker 1 3/4 super comps. E-body though and I'm not sure how different the earlier B's are but I know the later B's are pretty much the same as an E. Looking at your pictures, it looks pretty much the same from what I can tell.

At any rate, with the car on stands, I sawzalled out the Headmans, then I had to pull the mount bolts and torque strap and jack the engine up a few inches and the Hookers dropped right in. It was the best header install ever in my experience.

Good luck!

If those are a 1 piece header, then on an a body anyway, here's what has to be undone...both motor mounts, starter, drag link, oil filter adapter, rad hoses, coolant, remove distributor so when you jack up the motor it won't hit the firewall. Don't fight it, just pull the parts. Make sure you have the adapter gaskets first. Now some A body hooker 1 3/4 super comps are two piece, and I could drop those will a lot less fuss. And definitely high enough in the air so that you have room to manuever the header from the bottom. Mine always went in from the bottom - the only way from the top was while installing the engine.

took out starter and removed 90 degree oil filter adapter,both headers came right out the bottom! easy and done, thanks for all your help. am gonna go with some 1 5/8s headers now, mainly for cruising and car shows anyway. drag strip is 30 + miles away (wild Horse Pass) and expensive !

If I have to put in another set of headers on my A-bodies, I think I will cut the flanges and cut the collectors off so I can put in one tube at a time, or two for the center pair. Buy slip on collectors and weld on the links.

I have pretty much the same headers in my Duster. I don't have the right angle adapter, but with the filter off and the starter out they go right in from the bottom once you get the car high enough. I have Schumacher mounts and did have to ding a couple tubes for torsion bar clearance.

Bill,
Here's a link to the install instructions on Hookers site. Maybe it helps some?

https://documents.holley.com/5115hkrrev.pdf