IF I OPTED TO RUN METHANOL...

Can it be effective with 10.5 compression and a Holley style,alcohol only carb?

Everyone I know pics up ET and MPH regardless of compression....Typically about .1 in ET and 2-3mph.....But, if you miss the tune on the rich side, your oil is toast.

You will fall in love with it. APD set up my 850 Holley off my old pump gas engine. Get it heated right, hook up a simple rubber hose and a 1/2 inch ball valve to build heat and go. I pay 160.00 for a 54 gallon barrel of alcohol

Have you considered running ethanol? E85 or e98 out of a drum? I run methanol but have learned through other racers that ethanol would also be a good choice and since you use 2/3 as much ethanol as you do methanol some what cheaper if available in your area.google ethanol race fuel for more info. As for compression I understand guys are running straight ethanol at up to 15/1 compression.
Which ever you chose, keep the motor leaned out for warm-up and run the motor at 180 degrees or more at the starting line. Let heat build to 200 plus and that will cook all the alky and water out of the oil.

pittsburg racer,whats this ball valve,do you have a pic

It’s dark and I’m racing at our night of fire race so I hope this picture doesn’t go sideways like mine always seem to do on my phone. All it is a piece of black rubber hose going to the back of my carb, tapped carb spacer, or intake manifold. I can open it to lean out the engine to help build heat and save fuel. Nothing fancy and works lol me a charm. I like Brad Penn oil with alcohol and change oil 2-3 times a year and it comes out looking great. Run your car rich and you will have issues and won’t build heat polluting the oil.

where at the back of the engine pittsburgh racer,never heard of this before,i run e-85

I always wondered what "get it heated up" was. Thought that you ran gas for the initial start up and warm up and then went to alcohol. So, you are just adding more air to the present alcohol mixture, running it lean? With my old Hilborn injector system of over 40 years ago, primed with race gas for the start up and let it run on alcohol. I ran a heater core for a radiator. This was in an altered.

I have a "Lean out" Valve plumbed to the back of the intake manifold below the carb. A 1/2" hose running from there into the cockpit to a ball valve that is tied to my steering column. I use the valve to lean out the mixture so it builds heat faster. I like to stage at 170 to 180 degrees. I am usually 180 to 190 at the end of the run ( a gain of 10 degrees water temp during the pass)

DO NOT forget to shut off the lean out valve before you make the pass!!!

What else is needed for the conversion? Aluminum fuel cell and aluminum fuel lines OK? Must switch to belt drive pump specific to alcohol carb?

I have a plastic fuel cell with the foam removed, BG400 pump in rear, fuel return from pump to top of cell, number 10 black cloth (fiber) line, regulator up front with two number 8 lines going to my APD prepped 850 alcohol carb, 6 pounds of fuel pressure (volume more important than high pressure, lean out valve for quick warm-ups, I recomend using and changing out your carb floats every two years,

Any aluminum in the fuel system needs to be hard anodized to prevent corrosion from the methanol sucking water out of the air into the fuel making a corrosive acid No bare aluminum any where in the system

What are you using to split to lines to the carb? Brass or aluminum? Since volume is a concern, is 5/8 fuel line better than 1/2"?

Just wanted to add some stuff to this in case it helps.

First thing I'd do is opt for M5 VP. I have personally dyno tested it, an ran it , as well as normal industrial methanol. The corrosion factor is dramatically reduced as well as cylinder rust, an oil dilution. Also way more forgiving on tune due to it's improved atomization .

As for pump requirement, I know this isn't what is commonly accepted as enough, but here it is. I ran a 14/71 blown 572 hemi with 2, 1250 doms on M5 with 220 jets all the way around. I dynoed it and it made 1600+ at 10 percent OD. 12:1 static comp, In the car I ran a maganafuel quickstar 300 feeding a -10 to the 4 port reg -6 to each bowl. Pump, and tank in the trunk on 16 volts. Car ran 140 mph on average in the 1/8th ( as high as 143, low as 139) in a 3400 pound B body, and the AF goes richer all the way down the track ( not starving) I had to pull 25 degrees timing off the line to get moving from the normal timing of 30. So down track it was back at 30.

Fuel requirements as manufacturer math goes, would have us all running -20nfeed, 30 gpm mechanical lol.

How much boost were you making with that combo?

Materials eventually dissolved by methanol include aluminum, brass, calcium, copper, zinc, galvanized steel, magnesium, potassium, lead, rubber, Buna-n, shellac, varnish, Plexiglas, neoprene, Nitrile, plastics, and many paints

Acceptable (rated “good” for corrosion resistance) materials include bronze, carbon steel, cast iron, Monel, 302, 304, 316 & 416 stainless steel, and titanium.
Preferred material for seals are Viton and Flourel

About 12 pounds