New Pushrods Needed with New Rocker Arms?

Are new pushrods always needed when getting a new set of rocker arms? A read some instructions on the Jegs website saying to always get new pushrods when putting on new rocker arms because of wear patterns that develop between a specific pushrod and rocker arm. This is for a 440 with a hydraulic cam and adjustable rockers. Thanks for any insight you can give me.

I wouldn't think so

At least examine all the mating surfaces. If you see any radial (circular) abrasion or scuff marks this may be a good idea, but I generally see the 2 shapes just slowly polish each other evenly.
If I have any doubt with new products, I lap them in with very fine compound and number them for assembly.
The most common damage I've seen is from geo - the bad rocker rotation allows the lever body to touch the pushrod tube at the end of travel, etc.

the new push rod thing is more for the stamped rocker crowd.

Same brand and ratio?

No, getting rid of my set of 440Source 1.5 roller rockers after the pin holding the roller tip on one of them sheared off. I'm thinking of going with a set of Mancini-branded Harland Sharps. Trying to decide between 1.5 and 1.6 ratio. I'll be switching from my stock iron 452s to 84cc E Streets at the same time. Just concerned about clearance problems with my 3/8" pushrods and the Edelbrock heads, though I've read where someone on here used the 1.6 Mancini rockers with Edelbrock RPMs with 3/8" pushrods with no problems.

If you are changing the type of rocker arm then yes, most of the time you need new pushrods. When I did the rocker arm testing on my 470 dyno engine I had to buy different pushrods for each set of rocker arms. Hughes, Mancini, Harland, T&D, RAS, etc. all required slightly different lengths. Just part of the deal.

from my experience with the edelbrock vs iron head your going to need a longer push rod with the edelbrocks. get the rockers you want and a checking push rod and checking valve spring because you'll probably have geometry issues too.

On getting the right length read the B3 raceing info on their site. In a nutshell you want a 90 deg (right) angle (valve to rocker) at 1/2 cam lift to give you the most area under the curve to get the most out of your cam choice. On the other side Hughes has pushrod to rocker angle article.

If I was you I would call Harland sharp direct and order directly from them so you get the latest, best designed rocker arms for your heads
Tell Steve I recommend you to them also

Now matter what you change in the train,PRs must be measured when checking geometry