M/T ET drag radials slipping on rims

I put a set of Mickey Thompson ET Drag radials (9x30) on my Duster last season. They tended to move about an inch on each run. That didn't stop even after about 10 runs. One of the tires started leaking air at the bead after a run, so I dismounted the tires. The beads weren't damaged. I read that some people are glueing the beads to the rims with Permatex High Tack. So I did that when I put the tires back on. The tires are still spinning about an inch on the rims after 7 runs with the High Tack. I feel like I want to put bead screws in, but everyone (including M/T) says you can't do that on radials. So what's a poor racer supposed to do? Bead locks are expensive. Why is it that I can't use bead screws? Everybody says so, but nobody ever says why

How fast is the car and how much air pressure are you running?

If you cant stop them from moving then put the screws in.. I have my
DR glued on and they havent moved.. whats your tire pressure at..
you might want to up that some.. you know they arent moving now

10.60, 1.5 60-ft., 3300 lbs. The tires like 15 lbs of pressure. More than that and they spin

Was a post on yellow bullet on the screws.
Tears the bead up .
What I go is clean bead on tire and wheel .
Then glue both .
Put 30 psi in the tires for a couple days before I bring them down to the proper PSI .

The Yellow Bullet threads were interesting. One or two guys had ripped the bead out of their radials with screws while others reported that they had done it for years with no problems.

https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=144867

https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159200

WHAT SIZE TIRE?


WHAT WIDTH RIM?


WHAT AIR PRESSURE?

I had bead sealer put on mine but I have very few miles

There have been so many posts on this subject but guys insist on taking shortcuts. It’s a step by step process and the best results take 2-3 days. There is no way in heck you should have issues with a 9 inch tire if you do the proper steps.

I suspect it's the low air pressure you use. Most radial users I know run 18-22 psi and the higher pressure seems to reduce the tire rotating on the wheel.

Maybe your chassis settings aren't optimized for a radial, which requires you to run lower pressure as a Band-Aid for the chassis.

That's exactly what I'm thinking. I've ordered mono leafs and shocks from Calvert. Hopefully that will help. Mazzolini thinks so.

The glue cured on the rim/tire for over a month before I raced. I put plenty of High Tack on both the rim and the bead and waited until it tacked before joining them. I don't think I did anything wrong.

I run M/T bias at 13.5 psi glued with tubes as well. 3345lbs, 1.25 60 ft. They haven't moved more than about 1" in 85 passes.
Doug

I also run the MT 10.5W on a 12 inch rim.They moved some then stopped