1st Post What would you build?

This is my first post and I just purchased a 68 Charger shell. This is my first Mopar although I am very familiar with mechanical and body work.


If you were in this situation, what would be your ultimate engine build with these goals in mind:

Streetable- as in OK to cruise around town, not overheat, etc. ( no 1,000 mile road trips)

Run mid 10's at a weight of 3700 lbs.

HAS to sound like a badass- Vain I know but if it sounds like a sewing machine what's the point?!

Thanks to anyone who will reply

WH

I'm no engine expert as my racing career ended in 1991, but to do what your asking assuming your chassis will be up to the 650hp required @3700lbs to run 10.50's.
Several ways to do it...1. 512 BB wedge with TF 270 heads, 2. 572 with -1 heads both at around 10>10.5:1 would be 2 ways to go and we haven't mentioned a Hemi.

Thank you. From my reading the 572 would require an aftermarket block. I am not opposed to that at all, but I have also read that those blocks are very hard to come by.

From further reading, the 400 stroker seams like a better ( read Stronger) block than the 440. Is this true or a myth?

A good sonic tested 400 block is a lot better way to start than any stock 440 block for building what you want.
I have built several, a lot actually,400 based stroker motors that exceeded 750+HP on pump gas with a single 1050 Dominator with a set of M.W. size heads like the Indy SR opened up to M.W. size intakes.
On your deal you'll need the cam, converter, heads, intake manifold and chassis to make your car get traction and go that fast to all work well together.
My old pump gas Duster that weighed 3450 Lbs. with me in it went a best of 9.993 at 134.9 MPH corked up with the 3.0 inch full length exhaust system on with the air cleaner on. It was a hoot to drive and didn't sound anything like a sewing machine.
To max any combination out it needs to be all good from the front bumper bolts to the rear bumper bolts, your starting with a good shell so the slate is clean, build carefully and then go have some fun.
Two axiom I like to follow, light is right, motor and drive train parts, over all weight, and #2 is big is best on motor parts, big C.I., big heads, big valve train parts and intake and carb.
I have two 400 block race motors now, one with a 4.250 stroke crankshaft with a set of Eddy Victor Max wedge heads and the other one is a 4.300 stroke crank with a set of CNC ported Indy 440-1 with a set of Jesel pair shaft rocker arm set up. The Indy head motor hasn't been ran yet but I expect it to make at least 50 HP more and run .2 ET quicker in my S/P car than the other shorter stroke motor with the Eddy heads.
IHTHs

Since it's plentiful, and reasonably priced, for a driver, a single turbo EFI SB. Drive it all week, and race it all weekend long. Based on your outline.

I don't like small blocks, or turbos, but I cannot deny the their advantages.

When somebody asks " Does that thing have a Hemi ? " , what are you going to tell them ?
If I had the means , that is the direction I would go.
Any time you can get performance and the intangible " wow " factor in one engine , your course is clear.

The BEST advice I can give is don't waste one single second on an OE block. Find an aftermarket block. There is no reason to start with a block that is 50 years or more old. What a waste.

Everything else you want to do is relatively simple. The correct heads. The correct compression ratio (IMO anything lower than 10.5:1 is a waste and you can go more if you're careful about cam selection and tune up...if you want an off the shelf cam ignore my compression ratio advice). The correct gear ratio (most guys don't run enough gear). The correct torque converter (most guys don't run near enough stall and the car is miserable because of it, and then they go back and try and band aid it with a smaller cam etc all for not).

Get the basics correct and the rest is like falling off a log.

I really appreciate all of the posts here. So many ways to do this!!

I would love to start with an aftermarket block. Does anyone know of have one for sale? Wedge or Hemi?

If I could do it over, A Gen III Hemi would be my choice, Hellcrate

Not a bad option.
To further muddy the waters.........I can get E-85 everywhere.
My toy is 12.85:1 because I can.
Geography will color your decision too.
End use is the final arbitrator.
I know first hand that trying to make a car that is a comfortable cruiser , but performs like an animal is way harder that I thought.
Compromises have to be made.
EFI and boost make it possible to run down the strasse with the a.c. on and the tunes blaring , on your way to the track to rattle off a 10.50
I went with cam - carb - compression..........but I'm old. LOL
I think I would maybe have done a few things differently if I started the build today.

Got some questions...

Auto or stick?

What altitude/density altitude is typical for your local tracks?

3700 #s with driver, or 3700 #s + driver weight?

Straight pump gas? If so, what octane & ethanol %?

Any issue with your needing to check & set lash periodically?

Budget?

Any issue with a mild(er) build and a small N2O kit to get your ET goal?

Oh, better to have a car that's faster than it sounds than the alternative.

Those cars are so good looking from the factory, I would build it stock appearing, like a restoration, but do a 572 Hemi, 10.5:1, eddy heads, or Stage V heads, solid roller @ 280ish duration at .050, .650-.700 lift. 2 AFB's on a Vanke intake, or step up to a Stage V dual quad intake. Put some nice shiny 15" wheels on it, like magnum 500's or Keystone classics. Get a set of slicks for the strip, or use some DOT stickys all the time. Dana 60 with aftermarket axles and detroit locker. Set up your rear leafs like the original Hemi cars, and add some clamps and extra half leafs like we do in F.A.S.T. It should go about 10 flat, be nice and streetable, and sound wicked.

360 with a blow thru turbo on E85. Piece of cake. We ran 10.60s with a 2.76 gear, 255 radials 3800lbs
Doug

BGE blocked 3rd gen with turbo. The only issue would be it won't sound badass.

The other issue is it will go much faster than 10's!

Boost is where it's at! 500 inch wedge or hemi can put you at 10.0 built right. Why only 10.50,is there a tight budget! I have been 9.3 @ 147 with 6 lbs of boost 3700 with me in through 4 inch tailpipes. You many awesome choices!
I am not a fan of gen 3 in old mopars,,,,but that's just me.I have seen some cool ones done!

I forgot to mention that on any stock B or RB block you should change the main caps to aluminum with ARP main studs when you want to build that motor above 650 HP on pump gas!
No main girdles needed either IMO.
IHTHs

600 to 650 hp is fairly easy with a stock block and Trick Flow heads. Since it is a B body you might as well use a 440 block and build a 505. I'd go with TF 240 heads but you could step up to the larger port 270 heads if you want. If it was me I'd use a hyd roller cam and a throttle body type of fuel injection. The Sniper will support up to 700 hp and it is cheap but a Terminator kit gives you a lot more room for growth.

Transmission is a little tougher call. A good 5 speed manual setup makes it easier to have the right ratio for street driving as well as freeway cruising and going down the track but you have to put up with clutch maintenance. A 727 trans only has 3 gears so it is somewhat limited. You can adapt various OD autos or you can go with a bolt on overdrive. Neither of those solutions are very clean.

You'll have to be a lot more specific in terms of budget dollars and what your real goals are before you'll be able to make a decision.

A 4150 Sniper , 700 hp, Really,

If you stay with a stock block the life of the block can be increased by using a centwr wieghted crank. That puts the loads where they belong , not on adjacent main bearings. To put one in a b block will take some machine work. Since you want to push it fairly hard, i would go lowdeck 4.25 stroke by 4.375 bore for 512 cubes. Isky grinds some very good cams.check out thier . 660 lift roller, maybe put a 1.6 rocker on the intakes. I would go with a solid roller, about .700 net lift roughly. A single dominator and 2 1/8 headers. Compression will have to be as high as pumpgas is allowed.

High strung 451ci, 400, mild 505CI 440 , 526ci G2 Hemi shouldn't break a sweat. for the pure WOW factor you could always turbo a Slant 6 and be real different. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPm0POxQuNk


I'm a G3 Hemi guy myself.....426Ci BGE block build will get there at 3700LBS

I already forgot about the hellcrate...Scratch my earlier comment and do that. Cheapest, meanest, trouble free bang for the buck.I would imagine there would still be a few tricks you could add later to keep it interesting.

Ya I would do a Helcrate too. Double eye roll 🙄 YAWN. Wake me up when it’s over. Man I’m sure glad I grew up in the old hot rodding days.

You and me both. I hear all the claptrap about the GIII but I don't see much. It won't be long and the Italians will [censored] on the support for that too.

Curious about this reply, apologies if I'm reading it wrong but - if combo ABC produces 700hp with a carburetor, what makes you doubt that fuel injection can't or won't produce the same amount of power?

Not saying in is not possible, it is done with a carb. If I was shooting for a real 700 hp, a 4500 would get there much easier.

You're correct, EFI will get you there. We ran a bunch of back to back dyno pulls last summer with my low deck 470 engine. The Sniper setup lost a little bit of power over a 1050 Dominator but it still made well over 700 hp. This was a pump gas engine with Trick Flow 270 heads and a 260/264 solid roller. 700 hp is about the end of the road for the Sniper since injector duty cycle gets up into the 90's but as long as you have a good fuel pump it will do it.

HellCrate would be my first choice for the type of build you are looking at.

I am from the AWESOME old days also John, as you can see my old obsolete Toy 110 Super Flow bench, just my opinion because of block issues with all of our old stuff.

Your Charger would be cool with a stroker Hemi and should easily run mid 10's with a nice Hemi stoker. But the question is that is your pockets deep enough. Myself I built a mild wedge stroker for my 63 with my stock 440 block as I went with a 4.15 crank for 493 cubes. I knew I would only race once or twice a year as my car is 99% a street car and I really only run it hard at the track. Its run 10.70's so far in full street trim as in fact I have never uncapped it or had race gas in it. Its been in my car driving on the street and raced some since 2011 with no problems at all ever with it. You could build a nice 500 plus wedge stroker and run 10's most likey much cheaper then a Hemi build. But a Hemi build in your charger would be awesome. Good luck what ever you decide. Ron

won't need anything too exotic to run mid 10's , but you will need it well sorted . And accept the compromises to be made .
I went low10.50s @ 3690lbs with a solid flat tappet that was quite happy on the street , was only .600 lift , 505ci . Pump gas 11:1. Stock port CNC stealth heads , 4150 carb . This was short shifted @ 6000
But the block gave up at that point .
That is the biggest issue you will have to overcome .
My current 440ci has gone 10.70 with only .520 lift solid flat tappet . Again short shifting @6000
Converter and gearing are critical . And a big part of the compromise .
Pick a goal and build back from that .

Tex

Hellephant crate to be more specific.

That holley 4500 sniper looks good too. Says it can support 1500hp, and still self learn.