572 Vacum Pump

Hello , i have 572 race engine with Moroso Vacum System,separator and catch can ... after 4/5 warmup , found half quart of oil ! look too much oil !

Sealing up an engine can be a pain. You have an air leak somewhere so it is pulling air into the engine and sucking air out. You might also have a baffle problem where you are pulling air. Good luck, it can be super frustrating finding the leak and building a baffle that works. I've chased this around on the dyno a bunch of times and it isn't any fun.

Where are you pulling from??

Pulling from valley pan .. no baffle .. i would put on valve cover

It is very, very difficult to pull from the valley without sucking up a lot of oil. I've never seen it done on a race engine but maybe someone has figured it out. Some factory engines used a breather in the valley but they had fairly elaborate oil vapor traps. Basically tanks filled with steel wool and lots of baffles. Look at the FE Ford for example.

The valve cover is the best place to pull from but even there you'll need some sort of baffle.

ok will move to the left valve cover , the only problem is the 12 AN fitting can touch the hood ... on the side of the cover is not possible because the baffle fitting inside can touch to the rocker arm )

I agree.
All strokers have greater crankcase pressure cycling than stock: larger displacement in the same case volume. No, the pistons going the other way don't eliminate this, and there is also bay-to-bay pumping between adjacent cylinder pairs.

The valley is exposed to crankshaft throw-off. If it were the only source, it can be improved by adding a very tall vertical cylinder and pull from the top. The droplets will fall back and only mist will evacuate, but (duh) there's a space problem. Hint: the cylinder can have bends in it - the height is the important part. A vertical stub added to the valley going immediately to a 90° fitting, the a horizontal leg, 90° again should be able to bypass your manifold.

The valve covers are at least isolated from the crank, but still need to be masked/baffled inside (and in the separator) from flying droplets.

Is your dipstick tube sealed?

For both: a large diameter source (1"+) slows down vapor speed and encourages droplet fall-back.

now the dipstick is not sealed

Could you plumb it into the front of the valve cover with an upward facing baffle on the inside ?
I don't think that even the surge from braking would flood this , unless you are trapping a large volume of oil in the heads.

i think this is a solution

will make a hole on the left cover frobt side ... i have Moroso fitting with little holes inside ..

I was told by a GZ vacuum pump tech to install the inlet hose fitting at the front of one of the valve covers and install a baffle under it and install the bypass valve close or right next to it so it wouldn't suck dirty air across the motor like installing that valve on the other side of the motor I did that and it works good, my baffle is installed(welded)right at 3/8 inch down form the inside of the bottom of the valve cover, maybe 1/8 to 3/16 inch air gap from the baffle to the Moroso fitting
I get more moisture in the puke drain tank than oil I use to drain it after every pass, not needed Now I drain it after five to eight races now and I get less than one ounce liquid then

If hood clearance is an issue you can put it on the inside portion of the valve cover between rocker arms possibly. Not sure what head and rocker set up you have but its worth looking at. Along with the Moroso baffle you should be way better. UNLESS you have an external leak.

My 572 pulls from the front of the right valve cover. No baffle. Goes 25 passes with about 4-5ozs of oil in the overflow.
Doug

My Predator pulls off the front of the valvecover as well. Never pulls any oil at all either. The dragster pulls off the top of the cover and we never see any oil there either.

I pull from the front of both covers. i get oil in the catch can but i worked out it was because my chute pulls up the car hard & the oil at the top end is sloshing hard up the front of the covers. The valley pan is a bad idea, too much oil windage in that area.

Where is your Vac regulator mounted?

You likely don't NEED a regulator as it will never pull enough to hurt anything. Just my .02

I first mounted mine in the Indy valley tray. It filled my catch can on the first dyno pull even with a Morose 22635 positive seal vented fitting. I moved it to the valve cover and after 17 pulls it barely had anything in the catch can.

I heard that anything over 12in/Hg was too much on a wet sump. I had to adjust mine to get under that using a 4 vane Moroso BTW.
I've seen folk mount the reg on the opposite rocker cover to the take off, this way there is an air flow through the engine and you will pull oil through.

This is exactly what GZ says to NOT DO, don't suck outside dirty air across the motor
I've heard and know racers that shoot for 17.0 inches at the starting line with a regular wet sump oil system
I get barely 5.0 inches with my current GZ pump in neutral revved up
The next motor will have the Moroso 4 vane pump on it and I'll do every thing I can to seal it up so it holds a vacuum

I started off w/ an Aerospace vacuum pump kit which is a total piece of crap. Had 2 pumps fail and the mandrel is junk too. Never pulled more than about 6-7" w/ the regulator closed.
The regulator is mounted on the intake side of the pump itself.

I switched to a Moroso 4 vane pump and CV products mandrel drive setup and couldn't be happier. It pulls 10" at half throttle where it is set right now...honestly not sure what it pulls at WOT.

Mine pulls from the driver's side valve cover w/ no baffle at all. No issue pulling too much oil. I drain it after I get home from the track.

OMG i don't have this valve , i see in your pictures on my vacuum pump !

Do you have a gauge on the car so you can see how much vacuum it's pulling?
Put the line on the valve cover first. You may not need a regulator at all depending on how much it pulls.

I have the same reg as pictured on my Hemi also. I only picked up about 8 hp with the pump and mine also make 10in of vac. But that was mainly due to that I run an old school std tension 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 ring pack due to being a street car. Others results will vary from engine to engine.

Nice !

bought now on Summitracing !

look like don't touch the Rocker arms

nice information

Put one of these back where you had the pick up fitting.....
https://www.moroso.com/pub/media/instructions/22636_instweb.pdf

You shouldnt have any with that Valve cover Mounting. Should work good their.
My need to add a deflector later if needed.

Just my 2 cents.

i have installed in the left cover .. will let you know if are ok !

The engine in the Cuda went 404 passes at its last freshen up. It pulls 16-17" of vacuum and there has NEWVER been an issue with the pins period. That was freshen up number 2 on those pins and pistons, they had a total of 782 laps on them since new when I sold it. Still at 16-17" of vacuum, never an issue

In the heads up car we pull 20-21" each pass. Engine comes out every year. Never an issue with pins or pistons. Both ran 4 vane enhanced Moroso pumps and both are wet sumps. Just stating my EXPERIENCE not speculation.

Good to know Every days a school day

What heads are on this engine and how many quarts of oil are you running in what oil pan? Also, was the engine run on a dyno, and if so, did it fill the oil tank there? I used to pull 14+" of vacuum on my B1 motor, from the valley pan. It had a small baffle on it though.

hello ! news is : installed relief valve and i have relocated the puller in the left cover i would know how quantity of oil can suck in 10 second at 7000 rpm ? i have installed also the vacuum gauge .. and at max RPM i read 10 of vacuum

handsome japanese boy names is 50 ML around 2 OZ

Guys ... anyone speak for the pulley drive diameter ??? too big ... too vacuum ??

My 2 Cents.... Dont spin the pump over 6000 RPM'S..
My 2 cents on the Vacuum 12-14"
I prefer the 4 Vane Pump. But as long as the one you using will pull whatever vacuum setting you feel you need and it's working and your not having to rebuild the pump all the time. Run it...
But like I said. Thats just my point of view.

66% of engine speed seems to be a happy place for the typical Bracket guy. If you have a higher RPM deal, then 50% of engine speed.

my pump run at over 7500 because have same pulley on the crank same diameter on the pump ....

You need to correct that as soon as possible.

Its supposed to be 2 to 1,with the 2(bigger pulley) on the pump.

New Drive Pulley installed ! solved ! now correct vacuum !

Glad you got it sorted, you have beautiful cars.

Engine displacement is a big part of the problem. You have higher ring leakage, more thermal expansion of gasses under the piston, and much higher pressure cycling due to engine rotation than a 400" engine. Bringing the case pressure down needs a big pump, more speed, or some combination of both.
For those with a clean sheet of paper: more pan volume is always better.