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I'd put one in regardless of ET or tires

Take the car to a track and race it, tech will tell you what you need
I've had driveshafts break U joints, front and rear, and a tranny yoke, the drive shaft loop saved my butt on the tranny yoke failure

"For all full bodied cars - full bodied cars 7.50 to 13.99, front loop required on all cars except those running 11.49 and slower on street tires."

I would not call sticky Mickey radials a street tire. And I wouldn't trust the sticker and shoe polish hander outers at the local track to tell me what I need to be safe. The Rulebook is a minumum. Common sense has to be used as well.

Stock shaft, 7260 joints? Put a loop on it. And don't just attach it to the floor with sheet metal screws. It makes an awful mess when they get loose.

People's opinions will vary on what they believe is appropriately safe outside of the rule minimum.

For me, I cannot render any opinion as you've not given nearly enough info. Like car weight, 60 time, and the specifics of your driveshaft.

A long time ago when my car was running high 12s with a 2.0 sixty ft on BFG facials and factory 11 3/4" converter I did not have a loop. But I did have a Denny's Driveshaft built with a 1350 front yoke/joint, but retained the 1330 at the 8 3/4

Only detail I would need for the OP's question, what solid reason could he make for not installing one, and taking the risk, regardless of the rules.

My opinion is based on going mid 12s and radials. My assumption is it's with a 68 Dart, likely in the 3200lb range.

Rules are based on worst case scenario likely to be seen. Like hollow, worn out 7260s in an old beat up stock shaft. If there's a Strange CM shaft with good 1350 joints under there, then he certainly has an argument for not having a loop.

Used to be 13.99 and quicker. But if you have ever seen the damage that a front yoke/joint failure can cause at speed you would put on in regardless.

I worked with a guy that had a twelve second 67 GTO. Shaft destroyed all the floor pan sheet metal, entire exhaust, rear axle housing, tranny tail shaft and he said it was the scariest think he's ever experienced.

Run a loop. Summit used to sell a 1/4" steel loop kit for about $40. Takes some banging to get it to fit, but so what?

Our first lap on a track was on street tires.......a '66 Cyclone with a big block.
It spun for the first 75 feet , hooked finally and twisted the drive shaft in half shortly afterward.
It shelled the transmission case and the front half tried to beat it's way through the floor.
The loop paid for itself that day , and I doubt we needed one , per the rule book.
My wife was driving , she took the car out of the groove to the right ( right lane ) and coasted to a stop near the finish line.
This was at B.I.R. , we were the third set of cars on the Saturday a.m. time trials........the oil down caused a 45 minute delay and we made exactly zero friends that day.
I learned a few things that morning , and drive shaft safety loops are damned good insurance is at the top of that list.

I would rather have one and not need it than need one and not have it,,,period.

There can be a HUGE difference in traction going from the street to the track. Those Mickey's can be sticky. I say get one, sooner or later.

Pretty sure with radials it is required, and also maybe long studs depending on wheel thickness.

I blew a rear U-joint about 30ft. off the starting line back when I was running a low compression 440. Bent the pinion shaft, destroyed the driveshaft, broke the trans. I banged so hard I had a headache for 2 days Thank God I had a loop.