New KB Blocks are moving

They look great!. Couple questions.

1.Stock mounts bolt up? (Looks like it)

2.external oiling only?

3.Streetable?

The reason I ask is because, as most know, iron is unobtainium right now.😔😔

Last thread on the subject Darren said no internal oiling, external only.

put an INDY block mains up, next to that and I'll take the INDY every time. I know I'm gonna get beat for this but honestly look at it. Look at the whole package, well . The only reason I even chimed in was because of some of the other comments. I'm glad there back Hope they sell like hot cakes.

Not that I’m in the market....... it’s more of a curiosity thing for me......... but......

If someone ordered one today........ as the most basic of versions, with a minimum of options that would delay delivery......... what’s the current lead time for delivery?

Wow , are you trolling?
KB has 4340 billet main caps, 9/16 main studs and double 1/2 cross bolts and you prefer an indy block with 1/2 mains and cross bolt.
To each his own
The lifter valley now has a partial bulk head to support and keep the lifters submerged up by the distributor.
I will get pictures later this week

Not that I’m in the market....... it’s more of a curiosity thing for me......... but......

If someone ordered one today........ as the most basic of versions, with a minimum of options that would delay delivery......... what’s the current lead time for delivery?

Some of you guys still kill me. A group of guys take over a failing business and you expect them to correct years of problems over night. I wish I had the means to need one of these blocks and the rest of parts to go with it.

Give them a break, Rome wasn't built in a day.

Nice! Glad to see them getting around. We need a supply that we can depend on, and not be filled with dread trying to order one lol.

That looks to be unfinished. No rod clearance in the bores, lifter bores, for what I can see, look unfinished, or at least un bushed.

Would you mind, if ya get a chance taking a shot from the lifter valley pointing towards the dist drive?


I love all the material supporting the cam, and what they've added to the oiling path.

When KB is set to produce at max capacity, Indy, and world may have some real deals on DISCONTINUED inventory LOL.

WOOoooooHHOOOOoooo

They look great!. Couple questions.

1.Stock mounts bolt up? (Looks like it)

2.external oiling only?

3.Streetable?

The reason I ask is because, as most know, iron is unobtainium right now.😔😔

Any ideal when the wedges will start production?

here you go...

Darren - Great job on an awesome looking product!
Do you have your website up with available P/N's and prices?

I think you just put Mopar back in the game my friend.

Darren I presume we are still in a holding pattern for the low deck wedges?

A low deck wedge seems fairly easy to accomplish, especially if you use the RB main bore. That saves you from having to design new main caps. There aren't a lot of low deck intake manifolds but perhaps if a block was available someone would step up with some killer intakes. If you stick with the RB main size then you avoid the low deck main bearing issue and you consolidate demand for RB crankshafts. Seems like a winner to me.

A low deck Hemi could be complicated by the pushrod angles. Might want to mock that one up and see if everything clears everywhere before you get too far into it. It seems like the pushrods already get into the cylinder bores at the RB deck height. If you lower the deck then the pushrods are going to lean over even more.

I have a question regarding the cooling. The coolant port on the deck to the water pump is clearly smaller than stock and restricting flow to the suction side of the water pump- is there a reason this could not be made larger? This is not where you want a flow restriction.

I've never been a player in these new blocks, but that is a work of art. It seems to me that the price is going to be a bit cheaper than the original projections, too. Starting to make me rethink about getting a new block vs. overhauling my busted up old Indy block. What other processes will need to be done before assembly besides final piston sizing, honing and cleaning? Will cam bores and location go under "Custom" or can they be done to a regular block when ordered?

I am getting a costing together for low deck HEMI and WEDGE engine options now that we have a viable machining option. I will let everyone know when and what volume we need to make this work.

Love the depressurization reliefs at the rear main. Helps running a seal backwards if the oil off the main has somewhere to go other than out the seal lol.


Just a thought. Since the best head available for a mope right now is a predator, maybe consider a 45 degree lifter option for raised cam hemi blocks. The predator is available for a wedge, but is severely limited in capability, due to the valley bolt access cap needed in the top of the intake runner. The bank angle option on the hemi block is the only thing a guy would need to go straight to a pred without incurring additional custom costs.

I built (I think) the first +.5 deck pred. The tall deck let me run a near 7.5 rod, the entire skirt is in the bore, even at 5.125 stroke. Just huge increase in stability, and rod angle with the tall deck. There is room to go to 5.25 stroke if you keep the cam dia down to 54 MM. The lifter bores in mine are 45 with raised cam. I've done raised cam preds with 48 degree lifters, and it's just ugly.

The best heads we have on a big inch motor are all done around 7500rpm as you know, so cam dia beyond 54 really doesn't help IMO. A 2.5 bore tunnel allows for a 54 MM roller bearing (narrow enough for 2" spacing too.), or a 60 bab.

Disclaimer, LOL, As a Mope guy I sincerely appreciate the efforts, and financial risks you guys have borne during this offering. I would still be ecstatic over even a bone stock config aluminum hemi block. THANK YOU GUYS.

nope..sorry I just felt there was a lingering in the air that the others were obsolete. Maybe I jumped the gun.

As I recall from my 2015? KB block, the main studs are 5/8 thread, and 9/16 shank. Very stout, IMO.