12 volt to 16 volt I picked this little unit up I picked up

I. Discovered this little converter on the internet my plans is install this on the fuel pump to convert my 12 volt system to 16 volt at the pump what is your guys's thoughts fire away. Aside from it being made in China I think it could be a player

What is the max rating in amps will your fuel pump draw at WOT?
If below 10 amps go for it, if more than 10 amps run two or three of them in parallel

What type of pump is it? Most everyone, myself included just runs everything on 16 without stepping it down.

I apologize maybe I didn't explain it properly my car is a 12-volt system but I wanted to up the voltage at the pump it is a quick fuel 427.. so I basically and upping the voltage to the fuel pump only

If your pump can't keep up this might help. It might also screw with your whole fuel curve. Can your regulator handle the extra flow/pressure? (return/deadhead)

this made think of the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump. Does the same thing you are trying to do. Paul

. I have the Aeromotive Pro Stock regulator deadhead system I think the regulator . Should be fine. We were seen a slight amount of fuel pressure loss on a pass.. just trying to make it a little more stable ideally I would like to go to a complete 16 volt system. In the near future

I had forgot about that . A friend of mine ran a boost a. pump on a Ford Lightning truck had to have been 20 years ago.. .

These voltage readings we're with the pump running before and after the voltage converter

At the 11.39v reading . Why have you not solved the voltage drop ?
Wire sizing/relay ?

Tex

This is a total lost system.. the battery is a little low.the pump has a relay with the proper size wire. Wire length is less than 12in long..I will check after I charge the battery. Hopefully the output volts won't be to high..

Is it that you don't want to add any weight to the car to go 16v on the battery itself?

Guess I could have read the label on the transformer lol. 12v to 16v...

I like the entire swap to 16. Better cooling, fan, and pump. More fuel, better ignition ect.

I will probably make the change pretty soon. The problem is anti-gravity battery set me up with multiple lithium batteries and chargers and it is all 12 volt.this is a 20$ test on a 12 volt system..

the msd would like that too i think

I'd like to see a voltage boost on the ignition system, also. When I used to run without an alternator, if I turned a battery charger on during idling, the engine would pick up rpm. If you have 11.3 at the fuel pump, the ignition can't be much different.

Like I had mentioned before the battery voltage.was low And definitely . Needed to be charged ..that being said I agree With you. I think all roads will lead to 16 volt for me in the future

One thing to learn about electric power is as the voltage is increase, AC or DC, the amperage used will go down to accomplish the same work.
Lower voltage will increase the amperage needed to accomplish the same work
I don't remember the formula now for figuring out the amps needed with the existing voltage to provide for the watts used to do the work
Amps do the work, not Volts

Cab watts is power(work) volts x amps = watts

You have to be careful with that analogy on centrifugal devices like pumps. They are governed by affinity laws.

Affinity laws state that the flow is the square of the speed and the hp required is the cube of the flow. In a DC motor, speed is proportional to voltage. So drop the voltage the hp drops a lot so amps actually go down. Also a motor is a torque matching device so it does not follow ohm's law.

Ignoring losses, assume a water or fuel pump draws 10 amps @ 16 volts. That equals to 160 watts.

Drop the voltage to 12 volts, voltage drops 25%, the flow drops to 56.25% of previous flow and horsepower drops 42.19% of previous hp (67.5 watts). So 67.5/12 = 5.62 amps.

So in this case when the voltage drops from 16 to 12 volts the amps actually drop from 10 to 5.62 amps and you have 56.25% of the original flow. Pretty sure my math is right. Results would not be exact due to losses and some other considerations, but it won't be that far off.

It also works the other direction. When I went from a 50 to a 120 amp alternator, my running voltage went from around 11.8 to just under 14 volts. I dropped over 20 degrees returning to the pits after a run because of these laws. My amp requirement went up a lot!

Actually now that re-read your post, be careful. Amps will go up 78% percent (almost double) by math calculation and if the pump is not rated for the additional amps you will burn it up.

Mark you are on to exactly what Shiloh is trying to do. He has been running that pump below its normal operating voltage(no altenator)and is trying to work it harder.

With his short duty cycle (on for less then a minute) I don't think it will be a problem.

My concern was that the inrush current when the pump starts would kill that booster, but it seems to handle it. I think this is good science project.

I would not be too worried about the inrush current, but you never know. Usually voltage spikes or heat is what will kill them, and heat happens from continuous amps. Keeping an eye on the aluminum case temperature will give you a good indication if it is overheating. You can add additional cooling by adding more aluminum heat sink if one is worried about it.

I did my calculations going from 12 to 16 volts. In reality, I'm sure the pump is rated for at least 14 volts. Going from 14 volts to 16 volts will increase the flow and amps by 30.1%. From 12 volts to 16 volts it increases flow and amps by 78%

Thanks for the feedback guys I'm going to race the car February 23rd I will be able to post some racepak data showing what really gose on..

I'd be tempted to set it up so that it only goes to 16v at WOT. That would save power and wear and tear on the pump.

He needs to switch to 16 volt and a GOOD pump

. Yes I think 16 volt will be in the cards soon.. . One thing I like about the pump that I have we have rebuilt it at the track in 15 minutes.. the fuel that we run is not easy on parts let's just say that.. so how easy is the Weldon to rebuild

If you have a GOOD pump you don't need to worry about rebuilding it at the track

We have NEVER had an issue with ANY Weldon pump. The Dragster, and Vette have both had them for a few years. The guys at Weldon are easy to work with as well. Not to mention their low pressure regulator is sexy as hell and cant be any easier to use