Victor rocker shaft stud/head modification

I remember this being disscussed before,but I would like to know if anyone has specific information on this.I will be using big block ported Victors with Hughes rockers and B3 racing geometry correction kit.All info and related pictures welcome.Hoping to get it right the first time. I realize that the Victors are not everyones first pick,but I have to use what I've got. Thanks,Bill

Going from memory -- and a rapidly fading one, it seems -- here...

Remove the #1/3/5 rocker stand Helicoils; some have come out easily for me, others have required "professional help".

Drill & tap those holes to the same depths as the threads for the #2 & 4 rocker stands, using 3/8-16 Helicoil inserts. I used .9+" inserts, but .75" are more commonly found.

Once you've figured out how much longer than stock all the studs need to be with whatever rocker setup you have, contact ARP directly for the correct size.

My experience was that the mail-order places don't show a full list of ARP sizes, and even ARP's online catalog is mess to try use to find them. Avoid the hassle and call them directly to talk with a sales rep.

The new heads have much longer heli-coils in the heads than the early version of the heads. You did not say what cam and spring pressures are going to be used?

I used the Angelcci Aluminum Max Wedge rocker stands. This was because I broke the center stand on the early set of heads. I did not know they upgraded the heli-coils in the newer heads, so when I got those new castings, we cut the stands off and installed the max wedge style stands.
The process was to remove the original heli-coils and mill off the rocker stands, then we installed 3/4" long stainless steel Time-Sert thread inserts. Figured the height the rocker shaft should be for good geometry, and milled the rocker stands to get that rocker shaft height.
Used ARP studs to hold the rocker shaft stands to the heads.

https://angeluccimfg.com/products/mopar-max-wedge-rocker-stands

I think T&D now has paired shaft rocker arms kits that might be a stronger/stiffer setup if your going to run really high spring pressures. I'm only running 0.726" lift and around #700 open spring pressure, PAC-1326 valve springs.

Brad, if I am understanding you correctly,after measuring the original holes as you specified,the goal seem to be to end up with the center and 2 outboard cast shaft saddles to replicate #2&#4 saddles.This would eliminate any threads and stud thread contact in the weaker portion of the upper portion of the shaft saddle.Currently #'s1,3&5 have 3/4"to 1" deep helicoils and #'s 2&4 have no helicoils,but approx. 1" of threads in the aluminum at the bottom of the counterbored hole.This suggests that the weak upper portion of the saddle becomes just a locator and not a thread clamping surface.Am I comprehending this correctly? Thanks,Bill

Yep.

Thanks guys for all the info,you've been extremely helpful.Iwant this thing to be able to turn 72-7500 if it has to. Valvetrain needs to be right! I can't wait to let go of the transbrake button, I'm 65 so it's gonna be a ride! Thanks all, Bill