transmission fluid

always used type f whats best ?727 street strip 9.0 converter full man valve body bb engine

You chose correctly
I've always used it since 1974 per directions from the old Mopar drag race seminars put on by the factory Mopar drag race engineers

Type F in my 8 sec street car w/ a 727.

Didn’t we have a long post on this subject about a week ago. Lol 😂

Yep! and I still run the red stuff!

thats what i thought type F just wondering if the newer stuff was any better

And the week before that.

Sort of like Prometheus’s punishment.

ATI!

You never know. Someone may have released a miracle fluid in that weeks time.

Still run Type F from wally world per a recommendation here.


Tim

John Deer hydraulic fluid . 7 years now

Me thinks you make a lot more power than most poster son here, your needs are different, huh

I run Type F, but use Redline's synthetic version. I believe ATI's synthetic ATF is also Type F, FWIW.

Street use with the additional heat & slippage from a high stall converter rules out standard (non-synthetic) ATF for me. I also use an accessory trans cooler. But that's my approach and others may not agree.

A lot of street use w/ a 5k stall converter here w/ conventional (non-synthetic) Type F and no issues. Been doing that since 2003 or so.

Synthetic is a "peace of mind" thing for me. Years ago I recall seeing some tests showing at what temperature conventional ATF started to break down vs synthetic, and that persuaded me that I'd be better off w/ synthetic.

BradH...I don't doubt the synthetic is better w/ heat. Just throwing it out there that the normal stuff works fine.

If I can’t hurt Dextron 3 or type F I think you are fine. A powerglide and transbrake really test how good your fluid is. Zero issues

Is that before or after you drove 100+ miles one way to the track every weekend for a month?

All I'm pointing out is that I don't think we're all looking at it from the same perspective. The OP said a street/strip car w/ a high-stall converter, which fits with my experiences.

As I said above, not everyone is going to take the same approach that I do (and that applies to a LOT of things ), so I don't know why people feel the need to reply in a manner that insinuates that I'm "wrong" and they're "right".

People -- obviously -- should run whatever they want. I'm glad others have good results doing different things than I do, since I know how much it can cost to make bad choices that hurt reliability & performance. However, the guy asked for an opinion and I provided mine because his application sounds very similar to mine.

Advice From Rossler's site - I have aked him many times same answer for TF's

Synthetics are Acceptable but Not Required.



900 HP OR LESS - Recommended Fluids



Dexron3/Mercon



Racing Fluid (B & M or TCI)



Ford- Type F



50/50 Mix of Dexron 3/Mercon and Ford – Type F



900 -1,500HP - Recommended Fluids



Racing Fluid (B & M or TCI)



Ford- Type F



50/50 Mix of Dexron 3/Mercon and Ford – Type F



1,500HP and up - Recommended Fluids



Specialty Racing Fluid



Racing Fluid (B&M or TCI)

Hydraulic Oil (10W-20 or 30 Weight)



10-20 or 30 weight synthetic fluid acceptable on all level horsepower the heavier weight fluid the better lubrication to gears and components you must use a slightly higher viscosity fluid to equal lubrication value of conventional non synthetic fluid. The less horsepower you have the lighter viscosity fluid you can use as horsepower increases so should the viscosity of the fluid. Although some turbo powered cars and cars equipped with lock up torque converters need the thinner fluid for spooling and stall speed adjustment purposes. Unfortunately this is a necessary evil that can shorten the life of the transmission planetary gears.

One of the aircraft mags I use to get had a article about synthetic oils that said standard petroleum based oil molicules would start to break down at 325F and that the synthetic based oil molicules, back then, mid 1990s, would start to break down around 525+ F
I do remember reading about the dye in all automatic trans fluids back in the early to mid 1960 that stated that the dye would start to change colors at 275F and go from red to brown and become black at or above 325f

I had a 727 in my car 16 years with the same cheap type F in it, it also had 5 drag weeks on it. No problems, i only pulled the trans to switch to a 904.

On Drag week 18 I got the trans hot in the mountains(the new 904), noticed way more converter slip than normal and the cooler couldn't be touched by hand. I let it cool off for 30 minutes then back to the road. I expected to need to change the fluid the next morning but it was as clear and clean as when I put it in.

The more synthetic fluids out there the longer the cleanups are. You wouldn’t believe in this day an age how many guys still use hose clamps on their engine and transmission lines.

Note to self: Upgrade trans lines to replace hose clamps on the four (4) high-pressure connections for the two (2) high-pressure trans-spec rubber lines between the hard lines and the trans cooler.

EDIT: The hard line & trans connections are flared and barbed, respectively, but I definitely want to update this stuff.

...or cheap, rubber gas line because it's a lot less money. Everything on a race car should be a threaded connection except for maybe radiator hoses.

The Rossler recommendations seem fine. I've tried high end synth street ATF and didn't like how the clutches looked. Heat streaks from slipping on apply. Amsoil makes a racing synth Type F which I understand is developed from oil used in large powershift units in large equipment. "B&M & TCI fluids" and also ATI fluid is rumored to be repackaged powershift/hydraulic equipment oil, so there's that.

Again, we used Valvoline/NAPA Type FA, changed it every 50 runs or so and had no fluid issues. Pro tree, 6000 on the mat, no 2 step, every pass.

I think I have around 100.00 in my transmission lines that were made at a local hydraulic shop. Being my powerglide runs hot I told him the temps and he used lines to handle it. My fuel fitting are also AN style fittings as are my radiator hoses. Sure makes things safe and nice to work on.

Just use AN braided line. I have -6 braided steel lines on both my cars. 1/8" NPT to 6An fittings for the trans and radiator if I recall correctly. Normal braided line works great...been on my car for probably 14 years now. If you feel uneasy about it, use the more expensive braided line w/ the Teflon (?) liner like you'd use on high pressure nitrous lines.