470 build

After another fatal break with my 408, I decided to move into
BB territory ! yesss

Decided to go with a 470 ci from a 400 block, and I can't find to much
infos on that combo such as dyno test or best intake or whatever specific
on that combo....so I don't really know what kind of numbers I should expect...

Why do I see few datas on this one ?

Here is a quick overview of my parts so far:

400 block
440 forged crank, main turned down to 400 specs and 2.2 rod journals
offset grinded to 3.9 stroke
6.700 chevy rods with 2.2 journals
Fully ported Eddy RPM's 84 cc chambers
14 cc dome pistons for a cr of 12.6:1
HS rockers

no cam yet
no tq converter
no carb

Where am I going with that ? what cam would you pick ?

Trow me some ideas...

Dan

67 Barracuda......no engine...loll

Mine is a 470

unported Victors , made 620 hp

car runs 10.50's in 90 degree heat

Search for 470 and you'll find dozens of threads on this board.

AndyF literally wrote the book on the 451. Not much difference there. Might try searching some of his past posts.

Guess I should have read throught the entire thread before posting.

Here's one I had a few years ago:

400/470, 10.7-1 comp, ported Indy SR standard port window, victor intake, 950 quick fuel, Straightline Perf solid flat tappet 255@.050/.575 lift. Went 11.0 at 122 in street car over 40000lb with 4200 converter, 4.10 gear, and 275/60 drag radials.

I've written 8 magazine articles on 470 engines in the last year. You can find most of them on the Hot Rod website or on my website:

http://arengineering.com/tech/

I know the wagon was chubby Tony but had no idea it weighed 40,000 lbs LOL

Loved that car btw, Mine was similar to Tonys but less compression, worse heads and not tuned well (didn't weigh 20 tons either )
It ran 11.67 (died of indigestion, swallowed the air cleaner stud)

As mentioned already above, there are plenty of 470 posts on here, if you spend some time using the Search function.

You don't provide any specifics for performance goals, intended usage (street/strip or track-only), and limitations/constraints. That's going to make it difficult for people to give suggestions for parts combinations.

Try providing more of the missing info and that should help get more applicable input.

Hey Doug, thanks! I knew I shouldn't post without my reading glasses. I wasn't aware your 67 ate a carb stud, Ive been away for a while. Got it up and running again? Always been a fan of the 67 B bodies, glad you still have it.

Not a post highjack but too give him and me some direction mine is a 67 Plymouth B going to use it for street/strip My car already has D60 4:30 gears and Cal tracs will be running around a 29/10.5 tire with either 10-12 wide rims

400 block, offset ground steel 413 crank to 3.90 stroke, home ported e-brocks, 12.1.1 comp, victor intake w/adapter, .680-.660 276-281 Isky solid roller, 1200 Dommy, 727 with a 5200+ 4.11's and a 29" tires......3050 lbs and so far 6.15 @ 112 so far and it's tired..........

Don't drive around too much, mainly for fun at the track the week-end..
Trying to go as fast as I can... D60 4.56 gear 30in tires,
3000 lbs with driver.......foot brake

Dan

Focus on making the motor make peak HP above 7000 RPM, intake(single plane with a 4500 flange), custom built 4500 type dominator carb. and 8 inch race converter
Your parts should support and make close to 700 HP at or near 7000 RPM with the correct cam, carb. and intake

Using the 6.700 rods with a 3.9 stroke....do I need to notch the cylinder for rod clearance ?

You shouldn't
But make sure to check everything everywhere, especially around the oil pick up boss
You know who Murphy loves to pick on, correct
I don't worry about rod side clearances any more unless they are less than .012 or tighter on steel rods, .020 or les on aluminum rods

Yeah....and some folks told me not to worry either about rod to rod clearance being too big ! even at .060 !?

My first 400 block stroker build had a set of CAT brand H beam steel BB Chevy 6.800 long rods, the side clearances ranged from right at .054 down to .032
I was warned by every keyboard engine guy on here back in 2001 or so, not the real engine builders on here , about how it wouldn't work and it would cause a massive loss of oil pressure according to what they had read, they where wrong
The rod bearing to crankshaft clearances have a lot more to do with oil pressure loss than the rod side clearances due
I've been drag racing and building Mopar V8 since 1964, I've only seen one stock engine that had any where near the maximum side clearances, max of .016. it was a early built 1966 426 Street Hemi motor that had between .012 and .016 rod side clearances
All the rest of the stock production passenger car motors had over .024 and a lot more all the way up to .036

Rod side clearance is more just for proper rod location without it moving too much side to side, not for maintaining oil pressure. Depending on what rods are used, clearance to block might be something to look at. Rods with through bolts and nuts create more interference than rods with cap bolts. But using the smaller BBC pin will help keep the overall rod width a lot narrower.

Yep, built more than a few of these and rod side clearance is never an issue--like I told you at least twice, maybe three times.

I was going to suggest you call me as we have been in contact via email before, but all you do is ask the same questions over and over to as many people as will listen--until you get the answers you want to hear. There are plenty of good engine builders in Quebec, please look them up. You could take your heads to one shop and then the crank to another, then maybe order the pistons off E-bay, grab the used rods from Kijiji, and so on and so forth. Projects managed like this ALWAYS turn out awesome.




p.s. Maybe look up Nick Panaritis @ Indy Auto, he's a true Mopar guy with a dyno and a Youtube channel. Maybe if you have him build it , you will be on one of his videos. J.Rob

Maybe maybe not--How would we know? We don't know what kind of rods you have in front of you. Mock it up and check--its called ENGINE BUILDING. J.Rob

The 470 is one of my all time fave big block builds and I love big blocks for various reasons. Unless OP has a machine shop at his disposal, I would call 440 Source and just order one of their 470 kits, have my block machined with the "full meal deal" and stick any of the larger solid lifter variety cams in it. Depending on the "fully ported" Eddy heads power will be healthy and torque will be almost 100 ft/lbs greater than a 408.

Single biggest gripe I have is the down right horrible valve position. When you "fix" that expect major power improvements.
Oh and now I am deathly afraid of rear main leaks although the last few have been bone dry. J.Rob

I beam less likely to nick the wall than H beam.
Rod side clearance is safe at any figure you're going to get (over .014" or so, my preference), except: does this allow the piston pin boss to strike the rod eye? Not likely, but check each one separately. If the boss width is more than .060" smaller than the eye width and the boss is symmetrical you're probably safe.

I didn’t even need to notch the bores with a 4.25 stroke so I don’t see how you would have any clearance issues. I did have to take off just a bit at the oil pickup boss, which was only a few seconds with a grinder.

What do you mean by ''the down right horrible valve position'' ?
Please explain....

I may repeat myself, but I never hear of details like, single pattern camshaft is good or better or you need more duration on exhaust or lobes that are different...Eddy heads need more duration that Indy's and so on...I have so much a hard time choosing parts for me and so easy build for others......may be because I know there is so much to learn here....
The more I learn, the more I know I don't know much...
Where are you located ?

Dan

Most of that stuff is just noise that you should tune out if you're building a street/strip type of engine. Just focus on building something that is reliable with high quality off the shelf parts and leave the tricks for other guys.

A 470 with Edelbrock heads and an off the shelf cam should be capable of making 600 hp on the dyno. You don't need a big cam to do that either, the old school Mopar .528 flat tappet will make good power in a 470. If more street than strip then use a Performer RPM. If more strip that street then use a Trick Flow intake. A 750 carb will work just fine on a 470 but you can go larger or smaller if you want.